97 4Runner Crawler

Is this on high speed washboard kind of stuff? or slow speed rock crawling?

 

I cut down the original rack boots and made them fit with hose clamps.

 

NAPA rack from 8/2019.

 

Not rock crawling specifically. More high speed and long desert trails. It does "crawl" around a little bit I suppose. All around 4x4 unit.

 

Got the freel good 3link and shock relocate set up today. Took some modifying, but it’s cycling all of the 14” smoothies. Big question now is what coils? I need like 22” free length, but I don’t see that happening lol. Do you have any ideas?

 

On the Sherpa 4600 4runner they have some plates that bolt on the springs to keep them in place axle side with their 14s, might be able to make something similar.

I tried the following to lower it from the OME 861s.

Rubicon express 1310 (+4.5 xj ~21 free length) was too tall
Superlift 580 (+2.5 jk) and 560 (+4 jk) I want to say free length was basically the same maybe 1” longer than one but I don’t have any pics. 580s lowered my rear bumper by about .75” compared to 861s, but I stuck with the 861 for dual rate

Some good info on lengths and spring rates.
https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/faq-coil-spring-measurements.638947/

 

Thanks man. Figured I’d need to build some spring retainers for sure. Curious about the landcruiser 8 and 9 wrap coils. Searching high and low for a part number though. Seems like they have a low rate and long free length.

t4r . org is a miserable website to try to navigate…

 

Yea T4R is painful. Maybe try some fb pages? Theoretically the 861 gives a 0” lift on an 80 series so I really don’t see the 7, 8, 9 wrap whatever springs having much longer free length. 861s are 19ish I think

if you are willing to try it for 200$ the Rusty’s xj? Springs look like for sure the best option for soft with the longest free length, it will just be super soft and probably body roll bad without a sway bar.

 

Might give that a shot. I think the longest OEM LC coils are around 21”

Any modifications to make xj coils fit? Also, the 4.5” Rusty’s? https://www.rustysoffroad.com/products/rustys-coils-xj-4-5-front

debating finding a stiffer, shorter coil and using a spacer as long as I don’t have coil bind…. Decisions decisions. Need a bit of preload at full droop ideally either way

 

Going back to the first post, sounds like this wasn’t engineered to handle tough stuff. Basic four wheeling. ?
Duane

 

Yea, looking back at that Rusty’s coil it looks like it could hit coil bind pretty soon just because it has so many wraps idk.

If it were me I would just try to find a few options on Amazon that are returnable to try out. If you can try to pick a dual rate I would give those preference to help body roll and weight capacity without changing ride height 4”. Super lift 580, 551 maybe worth it, 126 looks interesting and dual rate.

Xj/jk/tj front springs etc all fit well (rear) for me. Have to just remove the isolator on the inside at the top since they are a bit smaller ID there.

 

Good idea. Once I get the front squared away and all my crap in the rear set up, I’ll order a few to try out. Nice to know the Jeep coils fit well.

 

Any point in trying to make the factory rear sway bar work or is it better to just jump straight to a TK1? Not sure if there’s enough spring rate to make the OEM one worth the trouble.

 

@Dayman Karate

I read somewhere the fj rear bar is 37lbs/in and I figure ours is that or lower.

I know an fj guy with stock rear link geometry (sas front) who breaks the ends or something on the sway bars.

I think it is worth a shot if it isn’t much trouble to try it but it will be way softer than atleast how I configured my tk1 (90lbs/in is my guess on mine) and I bet the stock will break before long with 14s

 

Oh that’s super nice. Good work gathering all that info. Going to save that for fine tuning this thing. Anxious to get it on the ground and see what’s what. I’ll probably throw the stock sway on just to see if it can handle the travel, but I highly doubt it will even with longer or more flexy links

 

Still need to know?

 

Please

You get rid of the full body rig and go to a buggy or still have a full body for snow?

 

For lower level the switch would ground a wire to trick the ecu into thinking the ac was on. Second level it would also ground the power steering pressure sensor wire.

 

Thank you!

 

I have some TC double shear UCA reinforcements I’m debating putting on. Leaves no threads past the nut though. You think it’s worth the hassle to run them and maybe find a longer bolt?