98 TRD 3.4L Turbo , Methanol , LT

Gio, your truck is still not driving? I was thinking about that the other day, if you got those sensors going.

 

Lol I've put it off for waaaay too long. I fixed the sensor issue but it still runs like crap. I think the timing belt jumped a few teeth on the crank... hopefully by next weekend I will figure it out

 

Yeah, that rubber sound is still loud when boost starts to build. I need to find out where the hell it is coming from. I think it might be from my bov, I used one of these.....



And it has a c clamp to hold it in. It really isn't solid as I can rotate the bov so my guess is that it might be from there. Any suggestions on fixing that. I was going to put a bunch of silicon on the mount surface?

 

I almost did one of those. Are they crap?

Thinking to change my bov to one off a oem mazdaspeed or wrx. They are like $15 used and never leak up to about 20 psi. Just need to make a custom flange.

 

It was an absolute pain to get the bov in there with the c clamp. Barely got it in. I don't have the c clamp pliers either so that may have helped get it all in. It's just an o ring on bottom, then the bov plate, followed by a c clamp. I need to determine where my rubber leak is coming from before I can say if these style bov tubes are crap or not. I like the wrx idea!

 

Enjoyed the Miami Vice look on the way to work this morning. Pink and light blue. Florida style. Probably 1/2 the dudes on the road were checking out the "chick" truck. Haha. I'm not worried about it. I enjoy them and think they are cool.

 

Dude your truck is lookin freakin sweet. My BOV (same exact kind as yours except the flange is a 2 bolt type) had a leak where the flange goes inside the silicone, and that's part of the reason why I gave up on BOVs. Can you post a pic of your BOV with C clamp combo?
That definitely sounds like the culprit

 

Ok, I have gone through every hose, coupler, connect I can on my turbo to find this screeching sound. Gio, I think you were right about it not being the turbo, it's brand new. So I've done some research and it seems to be the manifold up pipe. Apparently if the bolts get loose or the gasket blows it will cause a noise like a cat is being skinned. The metal gasket vibrates and creates a hideous sound. Going to keep my fingers crossed that this is the culprit.

All my intercooler piping is solid including the bov and all vaccum lines.

 

Don't use that gasket POS. Get that stove gasket sealant. And use high temp thread lock

$7 Rutland Products, Black Rutland Stove Gasket Cement, 2.3-Ounce Tube, Size, 2 Fl Oz

http://www.amazon.com/Rutland-Stove...8&qid=1442937950&sr=8-6&keywords=stove+cement

 

Thx. I have some in my garage cabinet.

Did you still put the metal plate in or the stove gasket only?

 

No metal gasket. Just the stove gasket maker.

 

Cool! Will do. What a pia. And the sound this thing makes, like a fan belt is squealing only worse. Haha.

 

Haha! No worries brother. Be sure to wet the surfaces before applying the stove gasket. Let it sit for about 24 hours then let the truck idle to operating temps to cure the RTV. Should last longer than the turbo itself. And if you have to remove the turbo in the future, it cures to a concrete substrate that chips off with little effort if needed.

 

Hopefully that's it. The metal gasket does sound like problem now.... reminds me of blowing air through a blade of grass or piece of paper and it makes that squealing sound. Those darn gaskets are two sheets of metal sandwiched together, so you might be letting air out between those two pieces. Curious why high-temp silicone wouldn't be recommended though?

 

I don't think high temp silicone is high temp enough (700*F max intermittent??). The stove top gasket is 2000*F IIRC.

 

Tightened all that down. Found these things but no fixy.......

Loose turbo bolt



Thought this was a hole....



I've gone through everything, and it's only under load. Exactly when my boost gauge hits zero and starts going up the noise begins.

Tonight I'm going to put it on jack stands and have somebody put it in gear, hold the brake, and give it gas to initiate the sound. I will look into the engine bay to track and find this piece of s racket.

 

Take it to get a vac leak test. That will show you exactly if/where its leaking and only $40. Might be a bad BOV.

Also, the CX T4/3 up pipe flange surface wasn't the best machined and the surface of the turbo wasn't either. Even if the bolts are tight, there still can be a small leak at the turbo flange. Get rid of those metal gaskets, they are notorious for failing/leaking.

 

I figured it wasn't that flange because I inspected it thoroughly and there was not a trace of exhaust build up. If there was a leak there should be some trace of it???

 

Depends on how big of a leak it is. If its only during boost, would be hard to detect though. I would just get the vac leak smoke test and fork over the ~$40ish.

Well actually for the flange, it would be an exhaust leak test.

 

I may do that. Going to track at least where the noise is coming from first, then assess how to go from there. Vac leak test is a good idea. I've seen guys use their air compressors to vac test stuff.