98 TRD 3.4L Turbo , Methanol , LT

where is the best place to pick up SS arc rods? Also, I was considering adding a brace to the turbo to take weight off of the manifold. Thoughts? Should I ceramic heat coat the headers? I have header wrap I was going to use, but I've heard not to use it on ss.

 

Yeah don't use heat wrap or any coatings. The reduced life of your turbo, headers, O2 sensors and cat will be greater than any gains you'll see. Search stainless arc rods on ebay/Amazon and make sure they are the right size for your welder and that it says it will work on many types of steel.

 

Can you post a link to the type of welder you're using?

 

Oh, and removing the front differential is a freaking pain. I recommend having a friend help you, preferably one that has done it before lol. My drain plug would not come off for the life of me, so we ended up taking the CV axles out, and when the diff shifted, gear oil went everywhere. The diff always managed to get lodged against the bellhousing of the transmission; both when taking it out and putting it back in. When the differential is out of the way, the oil pan is easy. I used the fill-in-place gasket sold in the auto parts stores. I had my oil bung welded to the pan. I would recommend you doing the same. Put a cap on the end of the bung until you're ready to hook up the oil drain return line.

 

http://www.simadrestore.com/po20si5250ap

Simadre 5200dx, 2015 model, you can find them new off ebay ($450), 1% failure rate on welders, im sure other companies have that or more. hooked up to my house breaker box. Going to practice soon.

Welder....



Welding table....

 

Welder worked like a champ today!





Edit: Have practiced my welds a lot since that first one. Lmao!

 

Welder needs more practice

Mine aren't much better though . Watch some youtube vids, very helpful for me.

 

Will do on the you tube vids. Yes! Welder needs more practice before he burns holes through $$$$ his ss exhaust piping and cat/muff.

Haha, I said cat muff!

 

Ordered the 2 exhaust manifold gaskets directly from Toyota. About $60 for both. Worth every penny if the cx ones leaked! Will be here next week. Also got a 4psi spring instead of my 8 to start with. I really want to take things easy at first. Making sure I get this done right. I think I only need some nylon check valves and vaccum hose. Oh coolant taps (somehow?) and stove gasket sealer for the wastegate.

 

For the wastegate I used high temp rev.

Used the stove top sealer for the turbo flange.

I didn't have to tap any vac hose holes.

 

I will shoot a couple of pictures of my engine bay tonight and send them over to you. Hopefully I can get a really good idea of what to do with the vacuum system and coolant. last night I was happy I picked up some 2010 aluminum 17 inch Tacoma rims from Craigslist ($200, better than 1000 for some fancy things). they are 5 spoke and I wanted to run 17s. I'm going to paint and vinyl wrap them. They will look good. Trying to find some inexpensive Mud Terrains to mount on them now too. I like the aggressive pattern of mudders.

 

Get some treadwrights

Im running guard dogs

https://www.treadwright.com/

 

I'm just getting used bfg mud terrain for now. They are used off Craigslist, 5 tires for 100 bucks. 255/75/r17. They should fit for now Until I go LT and 35ish.

 

I also ordered copper RTV for the wastegate, stove gasket for the turbo, and throttle body and compressor 90 degree silicone reducers to hook up to my 3 inch charge pip, and 3/8 nylon check valves. I'm hoping that this is almost everything.

 

Sweet. The TB is a weird diameter. Cx used a 2.75" adapter but that was just a bit too small. Its a bitch to get on.

 

My maf is weird, I just looked at it and measured. It's 3" and in its own plastic tube with a vane/propeller looking thing inside of it running down the tube......also took pictures of the engine bay. Not sure still where to put the check valves and tap into vacuum. Also not precise as to run things for my catch can and coolant taps. I might need some t fittings for the coolant and vaccum but don't know what size because I am still unclear.



If you can, please photo edit and point out what I am doing with what here as far as the vaccum and coolant lines. I can also shoot better images over to you if that would help.

 

The inside diameter of your MAF is 3"?

 

this is how my maf looks, outside diameter is 3", I think inside is 2.75......can someone look at my engine pics and please show me where to tap into vacuum and coolant?




Edit: 2.75" inside

 

I can help you a little on the vac lines. First, locate the vac line that is on your intake and closest to the TB that runs down between the upper and lower intake manifold. That is for you fuel regulator. Now, locate where your PCV valve plugs into your manifold right after your TB. When you do your catch can and run your PCV there, rout the fuel regulator vacuum to the fitting the PCV valve is currently using.

Next, there is a vac line that goes across the entire engine bay and connects to your fuel evap box behind the battery. That can be removed and the box can be capped with a filter.

Next, on the front of the upper intake manifold, there is a rather large fitting that has a cap on it pointed out straight ahead. I use a silicon vacuum hose and got it to fit over that. I ran that hose into the cabin for the AEM FIC. I t-ed the boost gauge off of that as well.

The turbo will come with a vacuum fitting. That is the one you want to connect to your waste gate (via boost controller if you have it).

DONT put a check valve on the brake booster vac. I took mine off as my brakes started to not work...

Let me know if I missed a vac fitting.

 

Yeah call me crazy but the vac lines are the least of your worries right now. It's good you have a solid piece MAF so you can play around with the location a little easier. I recently put my MAF pre-turbo for sh*ts and gigs and it actually drives a little bit better now. can't help much with coolant taps because my turbo is just oil cooled.