98 TRD 3.4L Turbo , Methanol , LT

For coolant taps, I located the two lines that flowed to the TB. TB is ran from a coolant line from the rear of the block and feeds back into the block IIRC. I cut out the TB Feed line and ran a line from the block to a heat exchanger, to the turbo, and then to the TB. I left the TB return line untouched. It was pretty easy.

If you don't watercool, you need to let your truck idle a bit before shutting it down. Your turbo's bearings will also not last much more beyond 50k, however it will spool a bit faster from what I read (not sure why). Watercooling allegedly affects the spool rate but bearings last up to 100k miles.

 

My baby snail doesn't even have the connections for coolant. I always let it run for 20 seconds or so if I was driving it hard just prior to parking... but synthetic oil doesn't cook quite as easy as dyno oil so I'm not worried.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you see water cooling more on ball bearing turbos than journal bearing ones because ball bearing turbos have much less oil flow, so they need the water cooling to help supplement the oil cooling.

 

I think you are right. Plus ball bearings get hotter IIRC but spool faster.

 

Sanded, primed, and coated my bed with plasti coat bedliner ($60, 1 gallon from Amazon), came out excellent! Going to install two structural foam tool boxes. One will be for my methanol tank to sit in. Also got a bed cargo net that runs crosswise to keep groceries or whatever in, keeping them secure.



I also noticed some sort of canister mounted in my driver side front fender well. What is this?

 

Those treadwright tires look like a really good deal.

 

That's a vacuum tank to keep your 4WD engaged any time your 4WD stick is out of 2WD even when your truck is off... or when you're flooring it for a long time and your intake manifold loses vacuum. our 4WD actuator works off of manifold vacuum (I think they were like that till 1999)

 

This?



It's the fuel evap tank. Some have it back at the tank itself and some have it in the engine bay.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=79054.0

There is a vac line that runs from this to the intake, just remove the vac hose and cap the fitting on the evap canister with a filter.

 

Now that I'm back boosting again, I need to clarify and say that a failing crank sensor bent my rod. It started misfiring really bad and stupid me kept my foot in it, meth and fuel spraying away. Ignition finally sparked and BOOM. Anyway, after I got new motor in it was STILL MISFIRING! Weeks of frustration ended when I finally swapped that crank sensor with a known good one off my brother's rig and it runs flawless. Boost didn't kill it, ignition misfires did, ultimately. I went back to the track this weekend with my new 3k stall and shocked more than a Mustangs ;-)

 

Also your MAF is like mine. A 2.75 (70mm) coupler fits on the throttle body side and a 2.5" (64mm) coupler fits on the other side

 

Wow... Does the crank sensor effect ignition timing that much? It seems like the ECU would retard timing a little until the sensor got fixed.

 

No it's a little cylindrical tank literally in front of the driver tire/under the battery. I doubt your truck has it since they switched to mostly electronic mechanical actuators in the later years.

 

Gochya. Yeah, don't have one.

 

I would like to either get rid of it or move it inside the engine bay. what do you think about that?

This weekend I am going to buy the fluids I need, mainly synthetic motor oil and I might do the transmission, transfer case, and rear axle while I'm at it. truck has about 180,000 miles. it was garaged and babied for all those. the only things I need to get started on this are the coolant taps and a few couplers for my one piece maf and turbo intake.

 

What's the purpose of getting rid/moving of it?
And don't worry dude my truck has 253k of HARD HARD HARD miles... The first time it's ever been in a garage was like 6 months ago. Been boosting 4-5 psi for almost two years and its still in great shape. I put royal purple synthetic oil in my tranny and both differentials prior to boosting.

 

I just didn't want it inside the fender well especially if I start running larger tires. mainly for clearance issue purposes. sounds like I'm going to buy some royal purple. what weights do you recommend for all those particular applications? I have coolant to flush that system as well.

Man, I'm so excited to get this thing going and see how those headers and stainless steel exhaust are going to sound.

Exhaust header gaskets are in at the Toyota dealer. Picking those up today. $70, ouch.

Ok. Think I got the rest figured out. If any of this is wrong let me know!

Boost gauge tee's off of the manifold vaccum post tb so it reads both vaccum and boost. Wastegates line runs to the charge pipes before tb (Question 1: should it tap in before or after maf?) so it sees boost only, no vaccum.

Coolant lines for the turbo can be tapped in and ran inline with the tb's coolant system.

Question 2: Do I mess with the fuel pressure regulator vaccum line? And where should the check valves go?

And finally the oil catch can runs after the PCV valve, which can then be vented to the atmosphere or rerouted back to the system. Basically just inline with the PCV hose fittings and run?

 

Yeah man it is exciting. I'd wait till you get the tires to worry about the tank... I've crawled all over colorado with bfg all terrains with big chains and never had clearance issues. I think I used 75w90 for everything gear related.

 

Your right, i have bigger fish to fry.

Going to start on my fmic this weekend. Hopefully I can get it to fit and run some of the charge pipes. With some cutting and the proper plan it will come together (might be a lot of cutting! ). I will post some pics of the progress. Wanting to get that damn oil bung put in too. Might look into that.

 

Here are all of my check valves. I'm sure your 4wd actuator vac line left the factory with a check valve (the little blue one). My PCV system has a brass check valve but that probably won't help you since you're doing an oil catch can. Upon further inspection I realized that you'll only need to add one check valve on the 3/8" line in the very top of the intake manifold (the white one in my truck).




Literally every single hose that connects from your air filter to your throttle body can be T'd into one single line and a tiny little 3/8" air filter can go on the end... or you can add a nipple just barely post turbo intake filter (after you install the turbo and charge pipes) and hook that single line up to that.

 

Okay, gotcha. Should be able to get that all buttoned up. If not I may post some more specific pictures. Tonight I am going to use a fan and flat black paint to coat the intercooler. The fan helps push the paint into the bar and plates. Makes it less conspicuous and lowers air temps slightly. I'm also going to look into putting the oil bung in without removing the front diff. A guy here said he tapped 3 turbo drain lines on tacomas without removing the front diff.