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A few questions and opinions needed (Head unit, sub box & misc things)

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by GuyWithCamera, Feb 9, 2015.

  1. Feb 9, 2015 at 5:45 AM
    #1
    GuyWithCamera

    GuyWithCamera [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Alan
    Tracy,CA
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    Sorry for the very vague title. (Cliffs at the bottom)

    I've been wanting to do the sound system on my X-Runner for a few weeks and priced everything out to be around $2300 in just most of the parts. I am very close to that goal (literally have that exact amount saved, but will wait until next pay day to cover what other little fee's and cost of install will be because wiring is not in my skill set)... I like stock appearances and quality.

    Since space in an Access cab is very limited as it is and with the fact I use the back seats, I had placed an order with subthump for a 10" down firing sub box

    http://subthump.com/product_info.php?cPath=10_49&products_id=109
    [​IMG]]

    Anyone have experience with these boxes?, I like the fact it's fairly low profile and doesn't seem too intrusive aside from having to pick it up and turn it around to access the under seat compartments.

    I intend to put a JL Audio 10W6V3-D4 (10") subwoofer in the box, I don't know a whole lot about car audio but it seems like it would work decently seeing as how the sub box is .82 cubic feet and the sub requires a minimum of .628 cubic feet...
    http://www.crutchfield.com/p_13610W6V3/JL-Audio-10W6v3-D4.html?tp=111

    The sub will be powered by a JL Audio XD600/1 amplifier (600W monoblock), Hopefully it'll fit under the driver seat?

    For a head unit I'm looking at the Parrot Asteroid... I use a 5th gen Ipod for music but my phone is a Galaxy S5 and it looks like it's a decent head unit for the price. I like that it's android based and I can get an OBDII app to work with a bluetooth OBDII scanner. Does anyone have it? Pros? cons?
    http://www.crutchfield.com/p_333AST...tml?showAll=N&search=parrot_asteroid&skipvs=T

    For a reverse camera I bought a flush mount... I intend to have it placed beside the rear license plate. Anyone have something similar done?
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2ZD7OS/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Steering wheel control interface
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4PJC9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Not sure if it's the right one, On Metra's list it works with the Asteroid head unit and on crutchfield it says it'll fit the Tacoma.

    Instead of dealing with ********* and paying over $100 for little pieces of cut out plastic for the speakers, I did my research and found that these will fit the Tacoma at a fraction of the cost.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IIC6CPE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZQGZWO/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    The speakers are JL Audio C2-690TX 6X9's
    http://www.amazon.com/Audio-C2-690t...F8&qid=1423487221&sr=8-4&keywords=JL+speakers
    And JL Audio JL Audio C2-650X 6.5"
    http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-C2-6...F8&qid=1423487221&sr=8-1&keywords=JL+speakers

    Do I need an amp for these?, Should I get an amp for them?...

    I ordered a 09-11 lower dash trim piece (where the cig lighters are) for the 3 openings and purchased 2 "Metra AX-USB-35EXT" to put in 2 of the holes
    [​IMG] clearly, I won't have a use for the AUX jack but the USB... Anyone have this done? does it fit? or know of any that don't have the aux jack?

    How about sound deadening? How bad will I need it and how much does it usually run to have done?

    ===========CLIFFS==============
    Buying crap
    -Anyone have experience with Subthump's access cab subwoofer box?
    --Will a JL Audio 10W6V3-D4 fit in it?
    -Anyone have a Parrot Asteroid head unit? I would like opinions on it.
    -Anyone install a flush mount reverse camera in to the rear bumper?
    -Should I buy an amp for the coaxial speakers?
    -Should I have the interior dynomatted? and how much does that ususally cost?


    -Parts list

    ---Head unit---
    -Parrot Asteroid Smart (To be purchased)
    http://www.crutchfield.com/p_333AST...tml?showAll=N&search=parrot_asteroid&skipvs=T

    -Metra Textured radio installation kit (Purchased)
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052WUBOG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    -Flush mount reverse camera (purchased)
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2ZD7OS/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    -Metra Axxess ASWC-1 Universal Steering Wheel Control Interface (purchased)
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4PJC9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    -Metra AX-FMUSBEXTCB USB extension cable + mount (To go in center console for the IPod USB plug [Purchased])
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ABBGIC/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    -2009-2011 Lower dash panel (Purchased)
    http://partsfactory.camelbacktoyota.com/oe-toyota/5540704040b0

    -Metra AX-USB-35EXT AUX/USB mount (purchased 2x)
    http://www.amazon.com/Metra-AX-USB-...UTF8&qid=1423488574&sr=8-2&keywords=metra+usb

    ---Speakers/Sub---
    -JL Audio 10W6V3-D4 (Yet to be purchased)
    http://www.crutchfield.com/p_13610W6V3/JL-Audio-10W6v3-D4.html?tp=111

    -Sub thump 10" down firing subwoofer box (purchased)
    http://subthump.com/product_info.php?cPath=10_49&products_id=109

    -JL Audio XD600/1 mono 600w amp (yet to be purchased)
    http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136XD6001/JL-Audio-XD600-1.html?search=xd6001&osp=xd600/1&tp=115

    -Jl Audio C2-690tx 6x9" speakers (yet to be purchased)
    http://www.amazon.com/Audio-C2-690t...F8&qid=1423488992&sr=8-4&keywords=jl+speakers

    -JL Audio C2-650X Evolution 6.5" speakers (yet to be purchased)
    http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-C2-6...F8&qid=1423488992&sr=8-1&keywords=jl+speakers

    -- 6.5" aftermarket speaker mounts (purchased)
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZQGZWO/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    -- 6x9" Metra aftermarket speaker mounts (purchased)
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IIC6CPE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    --- Scosche Radio Wiring Harness for speakers (purchased 2 pairs)
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009UHKW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I know I'm missing a few parts like a capacitor, Radio harness and an amp wiring kit... I figure I'll buy those things at time of install with possibly the head unit depending on price at shops.
     
  2. Feb 9, 2015 at 6:19 AM
    #2
    EricU

    EricU Well-Known Member

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    you do not NEED an amp for the door speakers, you would get a better signal and more power to them with an amp, but i installed those JL 6x9"s in a customers xterra last month only powered by a pioneer headunit, no issues.

    sound deadening will help, look up RAMM Audio sound deadening (Tacoma world discount i think), i used that in my '11 tacoma and '05 4runner, i ordered the 2x bulk kit for the tacoma which covered the floors, back wall, and doors. i had a 4 door. for the 4runner i only ordered a single bulk kit and dit the front doors and rear doors.

    Flush mount cameras are easy to install, the camera should come with a hole saw. just find the location you want to mount it in, center it up and drill your hole, just have to avoid any of the bracing behind the bumper because you will need to fish the wires to the camera and you dont want to take away the safety aspect of a bumper.

    That box is probably a bit on the larger size since the ported volume for that sub is only .75cu ft. but since you have already ordered it, i wouldnt worry too much about it, the magnet on the sub will eat up some of it and get ya closer to what ya need.

    **Edit** you should not need a capaciter, if you are having charging issues, a capaciter is just a bandaid, ive also installed a larger system into a car(smaller charging system) and saw no flickering of lights or change in Idle rpm... my 2 cents
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2015
  3. Feb 9, 2015 at 7:09 AM
    #3
    manethon

    manethon TTAS

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    Pretty much nailed it:
    I however am hosting another group buy on deadener here,
    this will be #4 and figured id include a few Audio goodies as well for those that want great performance without having to pay the " name " brand fee.


     
  4. Feb 9, 2015 at 9:04 AM
    #4
    ZMan2k2

    ZMan2k2 Well-Known Member

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    Get manethon's sound deadener. It's some of the thickest stuff I've seen. I've been too lazy to strip my truck, and install it on the floor, but I can't wait to get it in. I've got enough for two layers, and that should make the truck super quiet.
     
  5. Feb 9, 2015 at 1:22 PM
    #5
    shaneckc

    shaneckc Fyntünd Designs Vendor

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    $2,300 is a great budget to set for your system. If you choose the right components and properly install them, you will be very happy with the results. Let me provide some insight on your equipment selection. I don't have time to analyze it and make recommendations at this moment, but I'll follow up later on tonight when I'm done with work for the day.
     
  6. Feb 9, 2015 at 4:54 PM
    #6
    shaneckc

    shaneckc Fyntünd Designs Vendor

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    If you can not build a custom enclosure, that looks like a solid choice to me. The JL 10w6v3 is a phenomenal sub woofer, but it's not for everyone. I have three of them that I'm waiting to install in my truck. However, for your application (more specifically your enclosure) I would recommend going with the JL 10w3. It is more suitable for that enclosure, and you will likely get the same volume out of it as you would from the 10w6. Not to mention, you'll save a couple hundred dollars and you won't have to worry about the possibility of the 10w6v3 not fitting (which it's very hard to tell if it will, I'm leaning toward no).

    We were given one of these head units from Parrot to play with at our stereo shop. After checking it out, we never sold a single one to any of our customers. I would suggest looking at a Kenwood or Alpine with similar features for your head unit.

    That is a pretty basic backup camera, but it should work fine. When installing, remember to measure off of reference lines and take into careful consideration what is behind where you will be mounting it. Measure twice, drill once. I would still recommend buying a plate-frame backup camera. I prefer the ones from Boyo.

    That steering wheel interface will work fine. I would recommend finding the ASWC-TOY harness to wire it up with. Even if you're not doing it yourself, I would insist that the stereo shop doing the work use this harness or else they will probably chop your factory harness and make it impossible to revert to stock if you ever decide to go that route. Most stereo shops make this careless mistake when wiring steering wheel controls.

    I wouldn't buy those. Have your stereo shop make you some ring adapters out of MDF. If it's a decent shop, they shouldn't charge (much) extra for this. Those flimsy plastic adapters barely hold the speakers in place and they don't offer the same acoustic benefits as a solid wood baffle.

    I recommend looking toward brands other than JL for door speakers. There are a lot of specialty brands out there that have much more to offer in terms of product quality, efficiency, and sound quality than JL does with their door speakers. JL makes great sub woofers and amplifiers, but I have never been a fan of their speakers. My old stereo shop was a JL dealer for 10+ years and the only times we ever sold JL speakers was when a customer specifically requested them (usually not knowing any better), or they were the only ones that would fit a specific application based on our shelf stock.

    Make sure you get component speakers for the front, and do consider mounting your tweeter on the triangular sail panel. It's the small panel located at the top/front of your doors, opposite of the rear-view mirror. This offers a dramatic improvement in sound quality for our trucks.

    Check out brands like Hertz and Hybrid Audio Technologies. Even their entry level product lines are sure to impress. Also, don't waste your time / money on rear door speakers. If your factory speakers aren't blown, hook them up to your new head unit and call it done. If they are blown, don't hook them up at all and call it done. I would still recommend sound deadening in the rear doors. Especially in an access cab, since your noisy seatbelt retractors are in the doors.

    If your budget is $2300, an amplifier for your FRONT speakers should be an absolute priority.

    Good thinking with that lower trim piece! Those USB/AUX pieces fit very well in the knockout locations.

    You need it.

    I would rather have a pair of $50 speakers in my doors WITH sound deadening than a pair of $500 speakers in my doors WITHOUT it. It makes a night and day difference when installed properly. I would put at least a few sheets in each door.

    Now for my best piece of advice;

    I recommend doing the install yourself. You'll need to do some research, and possibly pick up some tools that you don't already have, but it is WELL worth it. Finding a stereo shop that will actually do a quality install that really compliments your vehicle and equipment selection is like finding a needle in a haystack. I could sit here all day and tell you about the bullshit / half-assed / soup-sandwich stereo installs that I've seen come out of almost every shop in my area, and I live in an expensive area.

    If you do research, take your time, approach each part of the install with patience and carefulness, you will not only learn a lot, but end up with a far better finished product than you could ever hope for from a stereo shop. Especially because instead of paying a shop several hundred dollars to install your equipment, you can apply that several hundred dollars to BETTER equipment, MORE sound deadening, THICKER wire gauge power wire. At the end of the day, after doing this yourself, you'll know that you have the best system that you could have possibly gotten with your money, and you put it in the RIGHT way.

    Keep this thread going, ask questions, and take your time. There are a few members on this forum that are very knowledgeable, and always willing to be a helpful source of information. Don't let the wiring intimidate you. The wiring involved in a stereo system of this level is very easy to do. All of the wire to wire connections that you will need to make are color coded.
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2015
  7. Feb 10, 2015 at 6:13 AM
    #7
    GuyWithCamera

    GuyWithCamera [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks everyone for the insight, I spoke with a few friends at work and they "know people" so the JL sub and amps all together will be over $200 less than what I was able to find at the cheapest.

    I wasn't so sure about the JL speakers either because I haven't heard much about JL speakers as opposed to their subs or amps. I wasn't sure if I was just paying for the name or actual quality... I'll look in to other brands and the ones recommended for speakers and components. If the adapters don't work, I'll have the shop make new ones (they're cheap anyways).

    Good to know about the head unit, I haven't been able to find too much unbiased reviews on it and have read several negative reviews. I just liked the price...

    I've never put sound deadening in any of my past cars so this is fairly new to me but I do know what it is... I was thinking more if it was a "if i can afford it, i'll do it" situation and I want to leave several things to the shop to supply because from my experience they are not usually very happy when you bring your own stuff in. I intended to buy the head unit and speakers from them and see how much they'll do sound deadening if not have it done at a later time.

    I can't do it myself at all, I work 12 hour days 5-6 days a week (Monday-saturday morning 6PM-6AM)... Part of the reason I'm waiting isn't entirely due to funding but the availability of our back up car. I was going to drop the truck off at a shop and pick it up the next day.

    We'll find out if the sub fits the box it seems.
     
  8. Mar 5, 2015 at 7:55 AM
    #8
    327

    327 Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone have that same box? I have a Solobaric L7 10 in my truck now, just wondering how the box sounds compared to a standard sealed box. I kind of just have it sitting on my back seat. This would look so much cleaner.
     
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