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A question about tow (recovery) straps.

Discussion in 'Off-Roading & Trails' started by TacoMon, Feb 6, 2008.

  1. Feb 6, 2008 at 6:01 PM
    #1
    TacoMon

    TacoMon [OP] Northern Alliance Gynecologist

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    I am buying a set of recovery straps and from what I've read you shouldn't use the ones with the steel hooks on the end in case the strap breaks and turns it into a 100mph projectile. This makes sense, but the straps that are looped on the end seem like they could potentially knot themselves to the point where you may not be able to undo them.
    The straps are from Northern Tool, 2" x 30' with the loops on the ends.

    Any advice would be appreciated.
     
  2. Feb 6, 2008 at 6:14 PM
    #2
    Toy4Life

    Toy4Life 668: The Neighbor of the Beast

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    You hook the loop over tow hooks, hitch ball, shackle, you don't have to loop the strap over itself.
     
  3. Feb 6, 2008 at 6:19 PM
    #3
    concrete jedi

    concrete jedi Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I was told the same, I guess just loop them through themselves or use a clevis on both vehicles. I was brought up using chains, and although never had one break on me (luck I guess) these are now not the choice of the masses. I was thinking of getting a static line/strap where you kind of get a running start and the energy that is developed in the strap helps pull out the stuck vehicle.
     
  4. Feb 6, 2008 at 6:24 PM
    #4
    Toy4Life

    Toy4Life 668: The Neighbor of the Beast

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  5. Feb 6, 2008 at 6:38 PM
    #5
    TacoMon

    TacoMon [OP] Northern Alliance Gynecologist

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  6. Feb 7, 2008 at 3:40 AM
    #6
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    With the hooped straps - you don't wrap it around itself... You loop it around something or use a D-ring or enclosed hook.
    Anytime you loop it around something - you want to make sure it's secured safely and won't fly off - and enclosed hook with clasp, d-rings, etc.

    One of the best tow straps I've ever used is called a *Stretch-n-snatch* type strap. It actually stretches a bit and uses recoil. It's softer on the 'towing vehicle' and easier to build momentum to yank larger loads.
    Basically, you hook it up and let it lay.... (don't take slack out). The 'towing' vehicle can *get a run at it* (so to speak). The towing vehicle will feel a slight tug as the strap stretches while the recoil helps get an initial pull on the stuck vehicle.

    We used them for many years. You can get them in varying strengths/widths/lengths.
    http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...04417/p-2004417/N-111+10201+600002398/c-10101
     
  7. Feb 8, 2008 at 12:29 AM
    #7
    ERdept

    ERdept Well-Known Member

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    Another trick is to use a dowel or end of broom when tying two together to make it easier to undo the knot and prevent a hard knot.
     
  8. Feb 17, 2008 at 11:04 AM
    #8
    Hatchietaco

    Hatchietaco Member

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    well been in the dirt and mud my whole life with farming. had some good tow straps but just with ratchet straps after a few uses they have to be replaced every so often. due rips and knaping of the fibers. i always carry two chains one that is 20 to 25 ft long and another that is just five feet.the smaller is used as a choker if you need to go around something. weight is always a factor when talking about chains. i have found a a good carrying case made by basspro it is a dry box (which keeps the mud and rust stains off the truck as well as keeps your chains from rusting by being left out). i have loaded it down and has never broken from overload. one draw back that most people find with chains is no momentum pulls, which if you do mostly likely you will damage your truck if doing so with a chain. one tip is carrying a small passenger car tire with you to use as ruberband the layout would be (truck-chain-tire-chain-truck) this allows for a momentum pull which has proven time and time agian with me when pulling out tractors and stuck combines.
     
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