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AAL install, now vibration????

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Sign Guy, Jun 30, 2011.

  1. Jun 30, 2011 at 5:32 AM
    Sign Guy

    Sign Guy [OP] Well-Known Member

    Mar 13, 2011
    First Name:
    Everett, WA
    DrugRunner V6, 2wd
    Nice Rims, Big Tires, Carryboy Shell, Added Rosta Cruise Control & Ultraguage, 5100 Bilsteins All around
    So the other day a buddy and I installed the AAL from Toytechlifts. Seems like a pretty straight forward thing to do IMO. I get out yesterday (1 day with it installed) and I get this horrendous vibration peaking about 25 mph - WTH?:mad:

    Last night I get home and decide to loosen up the U-bolts. (I found the front driver side tight as all get out and the rears loose, the passenger side both front & back were tight but not feeling torqued and both sets were torqued properly the night before). I thought I'd drive forward 10 feet or so then reverse a few times to maybe help straighten out whatever the issue might be. I torque the bolts down and go for a spin, same thing???

    When we removed & replaced the leaf pack we did not remove the shocks or unhook them (I don't know if that matters). Also the drive shaft may have slipped out of the rear end (it was close and my buddy had it hooked back up before I could get over to help.)

    The truck (at the rear wheel) was raised about 2" if that makes any difference.

    Anyone got any ideas??? :confused: Bueller? Bueller?

    I've got a 1000+ round trip I'm starting tomorrow and don't like the idea of having to stop every hour to check the torque on the rear bolts from any vibration issues or have to worry about it:mad:
  2. Jun 30, 2011 at 5:48 AM

    macgyver Well-Known Member

    Aug 14, 2009
    First Name:
    Canton, GA
    '13 Tundra double cab SR5 4x4
    I don't think the driving back and forth will do anything. Just make sure the centering pins on the leaf pack fit into the holes in the spring perches and torque the U-bolts down to proper spec.

    You may end up having to do axle shims and/or a Carrier bearing drop.
  3. Jun 30, 2011 at 8:13 PM

    Digiratus Adventurer

    Mar 26, 2010
    First Name:
    Roaming the PNW
    The RedHead
    2002 XtraCab TRD 4x4 Auto Trans With Lots of Mods King Extended Travel COs Camburg Uniball UCAs Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushings Alcan Custom 8-Leaf Rear Spring Packs Fox 2.0 Resi Rear Shocks FrankenFab Rear Shock Relocate All-Pro U-bolt Flip w/Timbren bumps Toytec 1" Extended Shackle 4.88 Nitro Gears ARB Front Locker ARB Twin Compressor Gunmetal 16x8 SCS Ray10s 285/75r16 Cooper STT Pros Limited Edition Relentless Front Bumper Smittybilt X2O 10K Winch 3" LED Pods w/Amber covers in the Bumper 22" Single Row LED Bar on the Bumper Mini D2S Projectors XB35 Ballasts + 4500K Bulbs Badland Sliders FrankenFab Tire Carrier Swingout bumper w/kitchen BudBuilt Front & Bellypan Skids BAMF Rear Diff Skid Whynter 65 qt. Fridge/Freezer CVT Mt Bachelor RTT Badland Custom Bed Rack GM 140 amp alternator Dual Northstar 24F AGM batteries BlueSea 7622 ML-ACR Battery controller Peak DBI Dual Battery Voltage Monitor Magnaflow 18" Muffler 13WL Brake Calipers Braided Steel Brake Lines AFE Pro Dry S air filter ScanGauge II OBDII Scanner Kenwood TM-71A Dual Band Ham Radio Larson 70CM/2M Antenna Uniden 520xl CB radio 3' Firestik Adjustable tip antenna Pioneer DEH-P9400BH HU Alpine Amps & Type R components (F) and coaxials (R) Wet Okole Seat Covers Weathertech Digital Liners Deck Plate Mod 1" Diff Drop Carrier Bearing Drop
    Try dropping the carrier bearing a 1/2". Its easy to do. Use a stack of washers, the two bolts are long enough to accommodate that much. If it reduces the vibe you know your onto something. You can buy kits that will drop it further.

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