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ABS actuator motor assembly failure

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by zacheross, Sep 23, 2011.

  1. Sep 23, 2011 at 6:45 AM
    #1
    zacheross

    zacheross [OP] Member

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    My battery died sitting in the garage for a month. When I jumped the vehicle the ABS warining light appeared along with an alarm. I drove the truck around the block to find no power brakes. The alarm wouldn't shut off. I chose to take it to the dealer for the diagnostic. They returned the following fault codes:
    C1223 - ABS control malfunction
    C1253 - Hydrobooster Pump Motor
    C1256 - Accumulator low pressure
    Dealer is advising the motor is blowing new fuses when connected - I am being advised the entire ABS actuator motor assembly unit needs to be replaced. Of course I find this timing a little odd with the battery needing a jump and power loss. Anyone have any experience with this to share?
     
  2. Sep 23, 2011 at 9:43 AM
    #2
    zacheross

    zacheross [OP] Member

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    forgot to add the dealer wants 3 grand to do the work, and without brakes I can’t even get the truck out of there without a another tow. Really hoping someone might have some ideas or confirm my suspicions about this ridiculous repair quote. Even if the ABS actuator motor assembly unit is bad, is it really that expensive to repair? I plan on getting it towed to an indy shop for a second opinion unless anyone here can chime in. thanks much in advance for any info……
     
  3. Sep 23, 2011 at 11:03 AM
    #3
    Crom

    Crom Outside...

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    Have not heard of your specific problem. Of course get a second opinion.

    Depending on your aptitude for technical information you can pay $15 for (48) hour access to Toyota's technical information System and access their diagnostic procedures and try some testing yourself.

    It takes a little while to learn to navigate in there, but the technical data is really valuable if that's what you need.

    Good luck.
     
  4. Sep 23, 2011 at 11:48 AM
    #4
    zacheross

    zacheross [OP] Member

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    thanks Crom the TIS may come in handy
     
  5. Sep 24, 2011 at 3:13 PM
    #5
    zacheross

    zacheross [OP] Member

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    need help finding where the ABS actuator/hydrobooster is located in vehicle, the diagram in FSM locates it over the passenger side front wheel but I dont find it there? anyone?
     
  6. Sep 25, 2011 at 6:40 AM
    #6
    buddywh1

    buddywh1 Well-Known Member

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    When you say no power brakes... do you mean braking effort is super hard but they still work? or that there's just no braking no matter how hard you push the pedal. If they work but effort is really hard it sounds like a booster problem to me. But if they say it's ABS actuator, then I assume they know their stuff. Still, it's a shame if they're swapping parts to find the problem at $3k a pop.

    Somthing to think on: it may not be the jump but sitting so long, unused, moisture in the line settled out in the ABS and corroded it.

    The ABS actuator is super expensive, I know that much. I wonder if you could source a used one from a salvage yard and save some coin? the actuator is, indeed, sitting right on the passenger side fender... it's a large aluminum block with a bunch of hydraulic brake lines coming out of it, with a big, cylindrical, electric motor looking thing in the midst of it. Impossible to miss.
     
  7. Sep 25, 2011 at 4:29 PM
    #7
    Tacoma Mike

    Tacoma Mike 42 Year Toyota Master/ASE Master Tech.

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    Yea i just changed an alternator and a ABS actuator/ module from a "Jump Start"

    Very expensive. In my case the internal relay was fried shut causing the pump to run all the time.

    In this case the pump is more than likely shorted internally. It's a complete
    assembly. SORRY

    Unfortunately i don't find this odd at all after a jump.
     
  8. Sep 25, 2011 at 4:36 PM
    #8
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is gooder 'en chicken Moderator

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  9. Sep 25, 2011 at 4:40 PM
    #9
    jandrews

    jandrews Carolina Alliance Southwest Region Ambassador

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    Man does that suck. Not too much to be done about it other than possibly get an estimate from an independent mechanic...would probably want to find a Toyota specific one though to be sure they know the systems well.
     
  10. Sep 26, 2011 at 9:29 AM
    #10
    buddywh1

    buddywh1 Well-Known Member

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    So a second case of this happening?? This is scary!

    Any idea what precautions would prevent this from happening when jump starting?
     
  11. Sep 26, 2011 at 2:05 PM
    #11
    Tacoma Mike

    Tacoma Mike 42 Year Toyota Master/ASE Master Tech.

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    Yea i do

    PLEASE take this as instructional. Not saying something was done wrong here. OK !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    If your home and it's dead in the garage use a 10amp battery charger.
    and let it sit for an hour. Shut off the charger before trying.

    MAKE SURE IT'S HOOKED UP CORRECTLY.

    If it's outside and not close to anything, use another vehicle.
    DO NOT RUN THE OTHER VEHICLE.

    MAKE SURE IT'S HOOKED UP CORRECTLY.


    If it's super cold then run the other vehicle for 15 min and then shut it off and then try, and keep cables hooked up.

    MAKE SURE IT'S HOOKED UP CORRECTLY.

    Don't hook vehicles up with helper vehicle running. Then start to charge if necessary. Be sure the helper vehicle has a good battery.

    MAKE SURE IT'S HOOKED UP CORRECTLY.

    Ok so if you follow me what we are trying to do is eliminate a VOLTAGE SPIKE.

    If you have roadside assistance or something and they are cranking in those amps to that battery, you turn that key and all hell breaks loose.

    If you can eliminate the spikes then you should be fine.

    Even though the key is off there are live feeds in the vehicle. Electricity loves to feedback along these lines.
    That's why you try to go slow and easy with jumping cars.
    OH I know it's a blizzard and your late for work and all that. MOST times you get away with it. But it's that one time that really sucks ass...

    FWTW. The best idea IMO is to use a jump pack. Then your not playing with another vehicle or screwing up 2 vehicles if something is wrong with car #1.

    I would only use a jump pack on a service call. If it didn't go. Tow it or replace the battery.

    MAKE SURE IT'S HOOKED UP CORRECTLY.

    Battery chargers are cheap enough.
    Jump packs are a little more pricey but your power is right there.

    Take your time.. Make sure key is off until ready to crank

    :wave:
     
  12. Sep 26, 2011 at 2:12 PM
    #12
    mjp2

    mjp2 Living vicariously though myself Moderator

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    I have the ABS module from my truck sitting in my garage if anyone is interested. It worked fine before I swapped to manual brakes about 2 years ago. Never was sure what to do with that thing after I pulled it...
     
  13. Sep 26, 2011 at 2:15 PM
    #13
    Tacoma Mike

    Tacoma Mike 42 Year Toyota Master/ASE Master Tech.

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    OH

    If your not going to run your truck more than a week or 2 then disconnect the battery take out the short pin.or put a battery tender on it.
    A good tender will not hurt your battery.
    Disconnecting your battery will leave you resetting clocks and radio stations etc.

    The exotic cars i work on all have them. they sit for long periods and when it's time they are ready.
    You can hook a quick connect lead to your battery and have it come out the grill. Just plug it in like a block heater. It takes very little elect. to run.
    I have one on my bike too.
    first good day in the spring i KNOW she's starting.

    All new vehicles have a constant draw on the battery from computers etc.
    And as people have found out. they go __________________________.
     
  14. Sep 26, 2011 at 2:17 PM
    #14
    Tacoma Mike

    Tacoma Mike 42 Year Toyota Master/ASE Master Tech.

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    OH man that's awesome.
    He needs to check part numbers for compatibility.

    THANKS !!!!!!!!! :thumbsup:
     
  15. Sep 27, 2011 at 3:58 PM
    #15
    buddywh1

    buddywh1 Well-Known Member

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    Also... if he left it exposed to atmosphere residual brake fluid, being hygroscopic, will absorb moisture out of the air. That moisture may have corroded up it's innards. So be careful. You might think you got nothing to lose since yours is toast already, but if the stuff gets loose inside your lines it could make things worse.

    I wonder if someone knows a safe way to flush it before hooking it all up?
     
  16. Sep 27, 2011 at 4:12 PM
    #16
    Tacoma Mike

    Tacoma Mike 42 Year Toyota Master/ASE Master Tech.

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    Absolutely correct.

    You can bleed it but it has to be hooked into the electronics. The only way i can think of is to hook it up to the M/C and then plug the 4 outlets. then do a bleed for each wheel outlet into a bottle. Activate the sol. one by one. Then hook up to the truck and bleed some more.
    Nothing is simple anymore.

    Good point brought up buddy.
     
  17. Sep 28, 2011 at 12:37 PM
    #17
    zacheross

    zacheross [OP] Member

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    thanks all for feedback/instruction/information/support so far. quite daunting situation at outset, but reality is sinking in that the assembly must be replaced. i have a friend of a friend who happens to be a toyota employed master mechanic. He has provided more diagnostic analysis along with his experience with this type of failure. He confirmed that the ABS actuator assembly is indeed vunerable to damage via a basic jump start, even if the connections are correct (which they were in my case - 100% textbook). As everyone knows by now, the ABS actuator assembly is made up of three parts. I have been advised that chances are highly likely that only one of these three parts is damaged but replacement of the entire assembly is SOP. Now I am evaluating options for replacement. I will have more to post shortly.
     
  18. Sep 29, 2011 at 10:15 AM
    #18
    BlueT

    BlueT Well-Known Member

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    Can you post a pic how did you connected lines after removal? You have nonVSC truck right?
     
  19. Sep 30, 2011 at 7:21 AM
    #19
    mjp2

    mjp2 Living vicariously though myself Moderator

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    I ran all new hard lines from the new master cylinder to the flexible lines up front. For the rear I ran new lines to meet the stock ones, flared the ends, and used a proper fitting to connect them together.

    At the moment I'm running full manual brakes. Pedal, master cylinder, and lines run directly to each wheel. Once I dig up some cash I'll be converting to hydroboost but that's a little ways off.
     
  20. Sep 30, 2011 at 11:22 AM
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    BlueT

    BlueT Well-Known Member

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    If you removed ABS unit did that stop your speedo from working ?
     
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