ABS ECU Question

I'm looking for help with an error code issue. Hopefully, somebody's come across something similar. I'll post the solution when I find it.

I have a 2011 TRD Sport. I had to replace the hydroboost unit. I found one on eBay that I believe came out of a 2009.

Now that the "new" assembly is installed, my brake, ABS and traction control lights are on, and I have these error codes:

C0371
C1271
C1272
C1273
C1274
C1275
C1276
C1277
C1278
C1281
C1282
C1283
C1379

The mechanic said he tried to reset it but couldn't. The old and new units look the same, but the numbers on the ECU covers are different by one. My original is 89541-04093. The replacement is 89541-04092.

I need advice on how to clear the lights and codes. After reading posts, my ideas are to disconnect the battery, do a zero point calibration, or see if I can adjust anything with a Techstream.

Are any of these ideas good or bad? Are there other approaches? Has anyone here swapped ECU boards? Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks.

 

I hate to tell you, but it looks like this unit isn't compatible with your truck. The skid control ECU is not getting multiple signals it needs from the wheel speed sensors, air bag module, steering sensor, etc. It's too many missing signals the skid control ECU needs to think it's anything other than not compatible. This thing performs so many functions that any change across years/models/packages requires a unique unit. Something as simple as this setup coming out of a truck with a mechanical LSD will make it not compatible as your truck has autoLSD function. It's also possible CAN bus adjustments were made across years and the messages the replacement ECU is looking for don't even exist and vice versa.

I hope I'm wrong for your sake.

 

So my next step is an ECU communication ID registration. This may not work but its worth a shot. Its what we do when installing a new or used computer.

It makes ALL the lights on the dash, but lets the modules shake hands. You 100% need a battery charger and 30 minutes or more.

ECU communication ID registration

NOTICE:

• The ECU communication ID should be registered when the certification ECU (smart key ECU assembly) is replaced in order to match these ECU communication IDs.
• The engine cannot be started unless the ECU communication IDs match.
• After the registration, pressing the engine switch may not start the engine on the first try. If so, press the engine switch again.
• Clear DTC B2799 (code for ECM immobiliser communication error) by either of the following:
  - Use the Techstream.
  
  - Disconnect the cable from the negative (-) battery terminal for 30 seconds.

(1) Using SST, connect terminals TC and CG of the DLC3.

SST: 09843-18040


(2) Turn the engine switch on (IG) and leave it as is for 30 minutes.

HINT:

Do not start the engine.

(3) Turn the engine switch off and disconnect terminals TC and CG.

(4) Check that the engine starts and stays running for more than 3 seconds.

 

One post then run? What'd you learn?

 

So far, no dice!

I did a zero point calibration. No result. I took it to a mechanic for his opinion. He said there were no codes when he scanned, so the calibration must have done something. But he couldn't figure out how to clear the lights. He tried to re-flush the booster and brakes with the scanner. Wasted money.

Just this evening, I tried Bishop 84's suggestion to the letter (except I used a paper clip instead of SST: 09843-18040). As he said, all of the lights on the dash came on. They all blinked the whole 30 minutes, except the ABS, Brake and VSC lights. Those three stayed solid the whole time. When I disconnected everything, it started right up (no problems there thank goodness). But the three lights stayed on just like before.

So, Shimstack, you might be right. The next stop is the dealership. I need to have the frame coated per a recall anyway. So, while I'm there I'll ask them if they can clear the lights or diagnose the problem.

If they say the unit doesn't work, I'll return it (the auto yard that sold it agreed to take it back), and I'll find another one.

Thank you both for your suggestions and stay tuned.

 

That's progress. I suspect the codes are still there, but time will tell. Good luck.

 

It's scary the first time haha. It feels like you stuck a fork in a socket.

 

Thanks to ShimStack and Bishop84, but I think this thread is over. Even the dealership couldn't figure out how to get the new unit to communicate. At all. That seems to confirm there's a problem with it. So, I'm sending it back.

I had the old one put back in and asked the dealership to look at it. When they scanned and inspected it, they said there were no problems. This whole thing began with a failed inspection. I took the dealership's invoice, saying there was no problem, back to the inspection station. They passed it.

So, all's well that ends well. In the course of trying to figure the problem out, the booster and brakes got flushed like four times, so maybe that made the difference. Who knows. Thanks again for your help.

 

Vince check your pm’s