abs light frustration

I have searched but unable to find a post detailing dash removal. Hopefully, someone can direct me to the correct post.

Here is my dilemma: I have a 2011 prerunner and had a hitch installed. The abs light came on immediately. The shop that did it said that nothing they did could have affected the abs. So, I went to the dealer. They installed a brake switch after pulling codes for 30 minutes. It was warranty work, so no charge, but they said go back to the hitch installer if it happens again. They were sort of saying: we'll screw around with this once, but don't bother us again. The fix lasted about 30 minutes and I think the computer is turning the light on because of the hitch connection and is confused.

I don't know if the abs is compromised or not but I think it is just the light.
I want to disable the light but I can't figure out how to remove the guages to take care of this.
On a separate note, I asked the dealer to disable the seat belt chime and they said it was not an option on the base model.

If anyone can direct me to details about pulling the guages to disable the light, I would appreciate it. While I'm in there, I want to destroy the seat belt chime also.

And if anyone knows how to test the abs, I would like to see if it is functional.

My ride is 2011 4cyl with toytec lift and 17" wheels. I have been reading posts for many weeks and this is the most helpful site I have seen for tacos. This is my third one since 93!

 

I thought I would bump this up to keep it current, in the hopes that someone can help. When my inspection is due in this county, if idiot lights are on, no inspection.

Regarding testing the abs system, someone must have tried something worthwhile. Is it as simple as slamming on the brakes on gravel?

I really don't care if the abs works or not--I just don't want to be dangerous.
There are still some threads for me to search for this, but I have looked for hours already.

Thanks for any help at all...

 

I think its safe to assume that hitch installer screwed up installation. To fix this require tracing all wires installed for hitch to proper location. My guess your problem surfaces when you get trailer or tester connected.
I doubt there is anything wrong with ABS (Unless hitch installer butchered ABS wires. More likely brake light line is connected/shorted to something else and that triggers ABS error code for brake switch. Honestly I would find some really good guy around you to help you trace wires.

 

Thanks BlueT,
I found the really good guy to install the hitch, which is why I went there. He had installed my lift kit as well. I went back and they retraced (supposedly) the wires and everything is in spec (supposedly).
I have never hooked up the trailer yet.
Also, the light doesn't come on until I've driven around a bit. Sometimes 1 mile, sometimes 10 miles.
What about clipping the wires to the hitch connector and seeing if that will accomplish anything? This is so confusing and I don't know where to go. That's why I went to the dealer after a month.

 

I would start simple. here is a link that explains how to read code from ABS system. Get the codes first. You can buy trailer hitch tester I would do this or go to nearest Uhual location and see if you can borrow one to test your hitch electrical.
Once you get code and test results postem here...

 

RobIAm

It's difficult to provide any constructive help without a little more information.

A couple of random thoughts/opinions:

Just because the ABS light came on after the install doesn't guarantee that the hitch install caused it. Probable? Yes, but until it's proven to be the problem don't start hacking at the wiring or modifying the install. It could be that you have a purely coincidental failure of the ABS system.

You state the dealer implied it wasn't there problem, replaced a switch after pulling codes - Did they tell you what codes you were getting? Folks on here that are more knowledgeable will probably be able to give you better indication of the problem if they know what codes you are getting.

Get under your truck and snap a few pics of the wiring/hitch install. Post them here, someone may see something they can help you with or further direct investigation.

I wouldn't accept a dealer telling me it's not their problem, it's the hitch install without telling you what the problem is. Certainly they should be able to tell by their diagnostics if there is a wiring short or other problems that need to be addressed. It's under warranty bring it back or bring it to another dealer. Politely insist that they properly diagnose the problem. Don't discuss the hitch install as relating to the problem - your ABS light is on, you want to know why. If they cannot tell you or refuse politely ask to have the matter escalated to Toyota. You are not the only person to have an aftermarket hitch/wiring installed - they should be able to tell you what the problem is.

I don't think that you are required to have ABS operational to receive an inspection sticker in Texas (bottom left):

http://txvehicle.com/faq

I would still try to get to the bottom of what's causing this issue - there's a good chance you are going to have a short, bulb breakage or similar issues when you connect a trailer to the wiring.

Good Luck!

David

 

Thanks Guys! Now I have a bit of work to do and some direction to follow. Any other comments will still be appreciated.

 

BlueT- I called the service manager at the dealer and asked him what codes came up. He told me it was code 1249. I have no idea what that means and I am not smart enough to figure it out from the link. More info later as I gather, but I thought I would start with this in case it rings any bells for anyone.

Canezes-thanks for the inspection info. I thought it was any idiot light that flunked the test. I'll bet most people don't know this. And proper dealer language is always helpful

 

If the ABS light is on, it means the ABS is disabled. Take it back, and have them fix it

 

If this is actuall code you getting (I assume they would not lie to you)
That means its most likely your hitch connection is causing problem. So whatever connection was made its
either or all
1. Shorting brake line with something else (liek turn signal or lights)
2. causing main brake circuit to be out of voltage spec. when ON or when OFF
3. Grounding the brake line.

Either its definitely the problem with hitch install so whole connection needs to be revisit.

 

Agreed, that pretty much cinches it. You need to bring it back to whoever did the hitch install and have them redo the wiring - either they made a mistake when they wired it up or it's a wrong/defective harness.

Before I brought it back to them I would probably do a little of the diagnostic from the above pdf - check brake light / turn signal operation, check applicable fuses just to see if I could determine anything else that may be happening.

Good luck!

David

 

Thanks again; I am going to print out the code sheet and go back to the hitch installer. Maybe it is simple like a bad harness. I'll do some preliminary checking first.

I see the 1249 on the paperwork--I did not know what it meant. Here is the full description just in case it makes a difference:

C1249 for Open Circuit in Stop Lamp Circuit.
832102-0.3, Combo A Scan Tool- 0.2, T1-72, T2-71.
Replaced Brakelight Switch To Correct Concern.
FP Number

$38 84340-69025 Genuine Genuine Toyota Brake Light/Stoplamp Switch 84340-69025

84340-69025

I find it interesting that the new switch worked for about 30 minutes. Normally the light comes on after 15 minutes or less. The traction control light comes on at the same time as the abs light. I have wondered if there is a yaw sensor because the light seems to come on when I turn but maybe it is my imagination.

This abs stuff is finicky imo and I am yet to be convinced that it is worth it. I had to do a tricky avoidance maneuver last year in the rain, and I think I might have been toast with abs. It was in my faithful 99 prerunner with 250k. I am starting to have thoughts that I should have kept it and made it new again instead of buying a 2011. I love the truck and I hope this is simply an anomaly.

I appreciate all the help and I hope I will have enough knowledge to help someone else one day

 

If you're getting light on turn I bet your brake and turn signal are shorted. Just get wife into the truck turn ignition key on and have her press brake and turn signal. See if you getting short.
Yep welcome to TW we love drama, and whatever you do don't mention ATRAC

 

With key on, brake and turn signal work just fine. That was too easy I guess.

I’ve been watching the symptoms more closely. Today was typical. In the morning, I drive about a mile before I get to the first stop sign. No lights are on—abs and vsc. According to the manual, the icon with the car and squiggly lines below is related to vsc and trac. I don’t understand but that is the icon.



At the stop sign, if I come to a complete stop, the lights will come on immediately when I start moving (I also turn). This morning, I decided to run the stop sign (slowly) and see if could make the lights come on. It is about 6 more miles until the next stop sign with curvy hills. I went up and down and fast and hitting the brakes and just about anything I could think of to trigger it, but nothing would make the lights come on. However, at the next stop, which was a complete stop, they came on immediately as I accelerated and turned left. Sometimes, however, like when I get gas and start driving, the lights will come on at random, usually within a few miles. Turning the key off always resets the lights and they are never on when I start to drive.


I still need to try several more things just to see, but I wanted to report progress just in case a light bulb goes off in somebody's head.

 

New info: Just to make it more confusing, I drove 35 miles yesterday afternoon and the abs light never came on for the first time in a month. I started driving like a teenager trying to activate it and nothing! Of course, this morning the light came on as usual.
Now I'm wondering if there is a temperature sensitivity to any sensors. It was in the low 90s yesterday. I was hoping that some sort of pattern would make diagnosis easier but I am not finding any direct repeatable correlation yet.
The saga continues...

 

And more: I spent lunch hour with the hitch installer and we looked at the harness and it is very simple to hook up; a ground, turn signals, and stop--hard to mess it up. And he has the plug in thing that goes into the trailer hookup and tells you all is good.

He is also bewildered and even called a buddy to see if he had ever heard of such a thing.

His idea was to disconnect the red wire to the stop light which is the only wire that has anything to do with the brakes. If it fixes the problem, then it must be in the harness although it seems almost impossible. If that doesn't fix anything, go back to the dealer. Does that make sense?

Before I did the disconnect, I thought I would post this to see if anyone had an opinion. Thank you if you do.

 

Brake fluid AOK--I went and checked; I keep hoping it will be something simple like that.
I do know that Turd Ferguson knows his shit

 

Did they put a trailer brake controller in at the same time?

 

Negative-no trailer brake controller.

 

Toyota's are known for having issues when tapping directly off the brake wires for trailer lights. An isolator should be used. It uses the truck's lighting circuits as a signal to run a separate power supply to the lights/brakes.