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AC Compressor / Clutch Replacement

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by benr, Sep 22, 2014.

  1. Sep 22, 2014 at 10:50 AM
    #1
    benr

    benr [OP] Member

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    Kenwood DDIN w/ bluetooth, Added fog lights, D ring add, Extang Trifecta, Squeaky leafspring fix.
    Well my AC kicked the can this summer. I was putting a friends boat in the water and heard a nasty squeal and smelled burning rubber (which i learned was my serp belt slipping around the AC compressor wheel, which was not turning). The light then blinks, and it has not worked since.

    After some reading (http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/94709-air-conditioning-blues.html & http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/107982-c-light-blinking.html) and research i have made the assumption that the AC Compressor Clutch is shot. I am assuming this because:

    - swapped the MG CLT relay out for the TOWING TAIL relay. No Change.
    - Replaced the serpentine belt (original w/ 90km). No change.
    - I can turn the compressor by hand or by the 8mm bolt, so do not think it is seized.

    I currently have the relay out, sitting in my glove box so the AC does not try to come on. I would like to fix this, and do some work myself to reduce the cost.

    A few questions i am hoping someone more experienced with this can answer.

    1- Are there any walk-throughs on changing the AC compressor out there in internet land, and/or will in be in the Haynes manual. Looking for details on the best way to remove (from top or bottom) things that have to be removed to give yourself space to remove etc etc...

    2 - Is there anything else i can do to verify that it is the clutch, not the compressor itself? I have read that if just the clutch goes, you can get away with replacing the compressor/clutch and not the drier / accumulator etc, as the system has not been contaminated with debris.

    I normally do all my own work, however i have never worked on AC. My rough plan as of now is to:
    -have the system drained at a shop and the wires disconnected from the compressor, so it does not by some miracle come on (if the rely is out, is this needed?).
    -Drive home
    -remove compressor unit
    - Install new (purchased from here) - http://www.ebay.ca/itm/170815925248?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
    - Have recharged and reconnect wiring.
    - say a prayer.

    Looking for input, guidance, or for someone to tell me i'm foolish. all is appreciated...
    Ben
     
  2. Sep 22, 2014 at 11:59 AM
    #2
    TucsonMike

    TucsonMike Blank

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    Yellow fogs,Stock 16" in black, 30" LED bar lower grill
    I had the same thing about two weeks ago. My mag clutch was shooting out sparks. The compressor is locked up on mine. Lucky for me my brother inlaw has all of the stuff to do it. The AC guy at his work told me every thing I would need to do it right and I found it all on Ebay for half his cost for me. this is it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-TACOMA-AC-REPAIR-KIT-NEW-COMPRESSOR-2005-2010-/290474108051?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2005%7CMake%3AToyota%7CModel%3ATacoma&hash=item43a19b2493&vxp=mtr or this kit with the OME comressor http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine...yota|Model:Tacoma&hash=item5d43273755&vxp=mtr
    Good luck I am about to do it in a week or so.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2014
  3. Sep 22, 2014 at 4:09 PM
    #3
    benr

    benr [OP] Member

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    Hi Mike, let me know how it goes for you, maybe you will have some tips
    Ben
     
  4. Oct 2, 2014 at 8:22 PM
    #4
    benr

    benr [OP] Member

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    bump, any words of wisdom? got the parts today
     
  5. Oct 2, 2014 at 8:53 PM
    #5
    Aloe

    Aloe Well-Known Member

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    Had the same thing happen 3 summers ago on a 95 degree day. Bought a used AC compressor on eBay, had a shop swap it out for....I don't remember how much tho....maybe 3...350?? But def didn't want to do it in my driveway!!
     
  6. Oct 2, 2014 at 8:54 PM
    #6
    Aloe

    Aloe Well-Known Member

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    Spare compressor if anyone is interested??
     
  7. Oct 2, 2014 at 9:46 PM
    #7
    G17GUY

    G17GUY Well-Known Member

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    spining hub caps chrome stick-on trim new car smell air freshiner stering wheel suicide knob nut sack on hitch back window curtain
    If you find any small metal shavings in the lines when you replace the compressor do not proceed without changing the condenser, removing and flushing the ac lines, and flushing out the evaporator and replacing the inline screen filter.

    The metal shavings will be mixed with oil and make a fine paste which line the hoses and ac components, looks like a gray substance.

    I did this whole job including recharging the system almost a year ago and still going strong so pm me if you have any questions.
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2014
    burntkat likes this.
  8. Oct 2, 2014 at 10:19 PM
    #8
    G17GUY

    G17GUY Well-Known Member

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    spining hub caps chrome stick-on trim new car smell air freshiner stering wheel suicide knob nut sack on hitch back window curtain
    Locked up compressor almost guarantees metal in the system.

    I would get and replace toyota part number 88377-0410, FILTER TUBE EVAP INLET TUBE TOYOTA*.

    To flush the lines and the evaporator out get a flush gun. Have an air compressor close by with a rubber tip nosel to use between flushes.

    Here is a flush gun
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000O1A4HY/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

    ac flush has harsh chemicals in it and is expensive. I used denatured alcohol to flush my system out because it is cheep ($12 per gallon) and doesn't hurt anything.

    I was over cautious and used about 5 gallons to flush, and back flush, and blow out with compressor, then flush again. Lol

    I used a black catch pan and flushed until I didn't get any metal coming out.

    You will need about 4 feet of rubber hose to go on the evaporator so when you are flushing it it does not go down the firewall and into the cab. I flushed forward and backwards multiple times till no metal showed in the pan. You will want to run lots of compressed air through to blow and dry out the alcohol when complete.

    All o-rings and sealing washers come dry. I used blue nylog on everything. I am very glad i had it because the slip joint in the ac line at the expansion valve was very hard to get the o-rings into and the nylog acted as a lube and worked well.

    Blue nylog

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008H...200_QL40&qid=1412312890&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

    I put 8 oz of pag 46 oil into the system.

    I pulled a vacuum to 500 microns and let it sit overnight and make sure it held.

    The system calls for 22-24 OZ of 134a, I put in two 12oz cans and called it good and it is colder than when I bought it new.

    Anything else ask away, sorry about punctuation tonight.
     
  9. Oct 3, 2014 at 6:23 AM
    #9
    benr

    benr [OP] Member

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    Thanks for the replies. I am really hoping the compressor is good and it was just the clutch that went, fingers crossed as I can still turn it. However if the compressor is seized then yes I will replace the rest of the components.

    I'm planning on having the system evacuated at a shop, then go from there. So the metal shavings if existing will be noticeable in the AC lines connected to the compressor which I will be remind following evacuation of the system? Or will it only be noticeable by the person doing the evac?
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2014
  10. Oct 3, 2014 at 7:20 PM
    #10
    G17GUY

    G17GUY Well-Known Member

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    If you can still turn the compressor than more than likely you have a bad clutch. Why evacuate the system? Why don't you just replace the clutch and see if that solves the issue? You probably just need a set of snap ring pliers.
     
  11. Oct 4, 2014 at 4:15 AM
    #11
    benr

    benr [OP] Member

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    Kenwood DDIN w/ bluetooth, Added fog lights, D ring add, Extang Trifecta, Squeaky leafspring fix.
    I was not able to find just a clutch, ended up with the compressor and clutch assembled together. Think there is enough room to swap the clutch out without actually removing the compressor?
     
  12. Oct 4, 2014 at 7:51 AM
    #12
    username

    username Fluffer

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    No, I tore an old one apart and it would be a pita to do with the compressor still in the truck. The compressors don't last long, you should swap it out anyway for preventative maintenance. Don't forget the PAG oil in the correct amount!
    Remove
    http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old.../06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/046007.pdf

    Reinstall
    http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old.../06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/046008.pdf
     
  13. Jun 7, 2016 at 3:43 PM
    #13
    VikingTrad3r

    VikingTrad3r Well-Known Member

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    hi. hope its ok for me to reply to this old thread. the information in it and the discussion is very relevant still today, for those who are replacing their ac systems. i could start my own thread, but, that just creates more hunting and pecking for future people like me doing their own ac repair.

    my symptoms are: i had the pig squeel noise, flashing ac light, and the smell of burnt rubber. the burnt rubber smell eventually went away, and i removed the fuse. that was about a year ago. its hot as balls where i live now and my compressor kit from discount parts on ebay just arrived.

    few questions:

    1. the compressor says "this compressor contains 5.40z of pag-46oil. OK, per the .pdf's above, our second gens require 5.1 + 0.51 oz. So can i just ad a tiny bit of oil while refilling the refridgerant?i need .11 0z over and above what the compressor arrived with.

    2. how do i get to this inline filter/mesh thing to clean it out? The rest i am fairly comfortable doing. i'll blow the lines out, swap the condensor thing in front of the rad.

    3. has anybody used duracool to refill their evacuated system? that is my plan. i am in canada.

    here is a great vid of our trucks removal of the compressor and another of the refill of the refridgerant. i bought all the tools on this video set. except the coolant. im going with duracool for that.

    remove compressor:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rulXlnG2Unk



    refill:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pdq8JAlct6s
     
    Shark18 likes this.
  14. Jun 7, 2016 at 4:54 PM
    #14
    Jimmyh

    Jimmyh Well-Known Member

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    1. That should be fine.
    2. The inline filter is in the line going to the expansion valve where it disconnects.
    3. No I have not.
     
  15. Jun 7, 2016 at 5:58 PM
    #15
    VikingTrad3r

    VikingTrad3r Well-Known Member

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    how did u guys get the electrical harness out of the way for the upper right (rearwards) bolt on the ac compressor? chris fixs vid didnt have it.
     
  16. Jun 7, 2016 at 7:55 PM
    #16
    VikingTrad3r

    VikingTrad3r Well-Known Member

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    nevermind. couple small bolts for bracket then shove out of way.
     
  17. Jun 7, 2016 at 8:48 PM
    #17
    VikingTrad3r

    VikingTrad3r Well-Known Member

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    just an fyi for any other noobs like me. when you receive your compressor and it says its loaded with oil, and when you go to take the plates off and pull the rubber bungs out, .......WATCH OUT....mine exploded and sprayed my face with pag oil. in my eyes and everything. the oil must be under pressure when they manufacture it.
     
  18. Sep 8, 2016 at 3:38 PM
    #18
    Colorad0

    Colorad0 Member

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    Man I wish I would of been around when you guys started this thread could of saved you a bunch of time and head aches it only takes about 3 to 4 hours top to change out a compressor and go through the whole system ( as long as you dont have to take evap out) but your expansion valve and clean out screen come out right through the fire wall change compressor through drivers side fender access if you have old style condensor you have to replace it because drier accunulator is sealed in and you guys pay outrageous prices new and i mean new everything not rebuilt compresssor is 160 bucks condensor is 70 bucks expansion valve is 25 bucks if you run into any problem systems hit me up been doing these systems for like 20 years


    Oh yea I forgot your compressor comes shipped with shipping oil not pag 46 I dont care what it says dump that shit out and use full charge of good pag 46 put in half turn compressor about ten times dont just turn the clutch get a spanner wrench if you have to and make sure the piston is going inside so then oil will lube seals and everything in compressor add other half of oil charge somw place else in system after you get compressor this eway it distributes evenly
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2016
  19. Apr 30, 2017 at 2:51 PM
    #19
    rw4636

    rw4636 New Member

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    Anyone able to tell me if it is possible (within reason) to replace the AC clutch w/o pulling the compressor on a 2009 tacoma?
    I can do a fair bit, but AC is not in my world. I've seen above others went the route of taking it in for draining and then did their work on the AC.

    My guess is ... no. I have to pull it.

    Just thought I would ask.

    Thanks.
     
  20. Apr 30, 2017 at 4:35 PM
    #20
    bobsuruncle

    bobsuruncle I void warranties

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    I replaced the clutch in my 06 with it still on the truck. Remove serpentine belt, remove snap ring, unhook wire harness and slide old clutch and pulley off. Install is same as removal. There may be a few steps I skipped, overlooked but that's the gist of it.
     
    ToyTaco2005 and burntkat like this.

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