Access Cab Modification

I think you mean wudbuchr,

 

BBP2016 - Removing the rear post panels is not too difficult, just a little complex.
Remove the 10mm bolt you find behind the pop in insert with "air bag" on it. Use
your finger nail or a small flat head screw driver to pop it out (IIRC it is hinged on
the rear side). You will need to pull the gasket (door seal) loose from the body
(rear door frame) and remove the plastic molding from the inside edge of the cab
roof line. Where the rear doors lock to the roof line are two 10mm bolts you will
need to take out and remove that plastic piece too. Having done that, you will be
able to pull the plastic panel free of the cab body. As you pull the gasket free, note
the plastic clips attached to the panels These clips are what hold the leading edge
of the panels in place (they hold the panel about 1/2 inch away from the body and
go under the seal when it is replaced. Pull gently but firmly.
The panels are held in place with plastic clips (just like the door panels and rear
wall panel) and should any of them not come free when the panel comes off, be
sure to remove them and place them in the corresponding spots on the panel
before reassembly. There is a horizontal line about 12 inches from the top of the
rear post, where the two post panels clip together. The top piece clips into the
lower/bottom piece. Once you have removed the plastic panel(s), removal of the
shoulder belt mechanisms is easy. Reverse the steps to reassemble and you're done.

 

BBP2016 - This mod was done months ago and since it had been done and documented by others,
I saw little need to document it. Sorry! I can walk you through it verbally, and am willing to answer
any questions you might have along the way. One word of caution though, if you are planning to
install sound deadener while you have it apart. If you have the Tech package with cross-traffic
warning, the alarm's audio source is located either in the top of the driver's rear post or in the
headliner above it. Unknowingly, I covered mine when I insulated the rear posts and roof. Now it
can barely be heard. I highly recommend that when you get the panel off driver's side rear post,
that you have someone drive by the rear of your Taco so you can identify the location of the alarm
so you don't make the same mistake. I have been to two dealerships and neither can tell me
whether the unit is in the post or the overhead - so I live with it as it now is.

 

wudbuchr

I may or may not get to it this weekend, I will reference this info when I decide to tackle the job.

Thanks

 

2016BBP - Ur welcome, glad I could help - that's what we're here for - after all!

 

Couldn't you remove whole back panel and AC storage bins and put DC storage bins and build platform around those? Or what about using someone's RC rear window trim & backwall carpet that they removed to add DC storage bins in their RC? There are people who have done that hint,hint, that might have those pieces just laying around. That way you have no leftover seat backs or headrests. If using DC bins then you'd have organizer spaces behind the platform and no headrests. Just more option consideration fodder to confuse the masses..............

 

I'm planning on doing this to my 2017 SR5, but instead of buying the pricy factory SR seat delete cover, I'm thinking of making my own cover panel and covering it with a matching low pile carpet.

 

I chose to remove the headrests, seats and car-seat anchors, but keep the back wall panel. I have most of the platform completed and am in the process of carpeting the flaps covering the AC storage bins so I have access to the jack and other tools without having to remove the platform. Twelve inch piano hinges (which short pile marine carpeting will conceal) will attach the flaps to the rest of the platform. Two 7/16-20 bolts in the seatbelt anchor holes will secure the platform to the floor pan, eliminating the need to drill new anchor. Two small D-ring anchors will keep our Min-Pin from becoming an airborne projectile in emergency stopping situations or (God forbid) accidents. An 8 inch subwoofer enclosure being built by Mr. Marv will also be secured by those two 7/16-20 bolts. All of the gear removed during this mod is being stored in my garage just in case i (or the next owner) decide(s) to restore the Taco to its original configuration.

 

Can you post up a picture of what it looks like.

 

Would like to see the finished product

 

MetrickMetal & Zerors - You asked for it, here they are! I used a piece of 5/8" luan plywood 25" wide and 53 inches
long. Note that you have to trim down the width about an inch and a half on each side so the rear
doors will close. Construction does not require any bracing because I put the 12 inch piano hinges
over the forward edge of the existing storage boxes. The carpet is a Marine carpet with rubber
coated jute backing. I was lucky enough to get a 48" x 60" remnant for $20.00 OTD at a local
carpet shop. I will also use it to cover my subwoofer enclosure when it gets here.
* The first picture is of the finished product (upside down) with all the tools and materials used in
construction in the background.
* The second pic ids of a parsons table leg wrapped in carpet (source: Lowes) It is an 8 inch leg
shortened to about 5 1/2 inches (the platform is level).
* Pic three is of a Grade 5, 7/16-20 bolt 2 1/2 inches long (source: Ace Hardware - Hillman
product). I elected to use the 2 1/2" bolts because they will also anchor my subwoofer
enclosure when Mr. Marv gets it finished.
* The fourth pic is of the installed platform, from the rider's side.
* The fifth pic is from the driver's side showing the level platform with additional storage underneath.
* The final pic is of the open lid to the OEM storage bin on the riders side.
All cuts were made freehand with a Porter Cable 20V Jig saw except for two cuts made by Lowes
on the 4' X 8" plywood sheet. I used most of a quart of Weldwood GEL Contact cement (about
$27.00 at Lowes). As you can see I have a preference for Lowes because Lowes gives veterans
an across the board discount, while the other DIY chain picks and chooses what and when they
discount - and IMO Lowes is better stocked.
I hope this answers a lot of your questions and provides the incentive for you to build your platform.
And remember, I am at the other end of your keyboard if you should have any unanswered questions.
Now you know why I'm called "wudbuchr"!

 

I bought a 4 door and I still mostly haul pets and gear back there. (Seriously pets + gear is like 95% of the time - extra passengers 5%).

 

tacoflavoredkisses1 - This is my second Access Cab. The jump seats are worthless unless your
passengers are under thirteen years old and weigh less than 95 pounds (any bigger and the
ride would be unbearably uncomfortable). I prefer the Access Cab because it has only two
"usable" seats. In fact, my last three vehicles were a 2008 Mazda Miata with a retractable
hard top, a 2012 Tacoma (MGM) SR5 Pre-Runner and my current love, the 2016 (BBP) TRD Sport.
With the jump seats installed you are limited on the type of "gear" you can haul back there and
that area always looks cluttered. now I store stuff out of sight underneath and Bella, our Min-Pin,
has a place to ride when Mama tags along. BIG improvement!

 

I feel the same way as you do about Lowes, I think it's easier to find stuff and they have alot better nut and bolt sections than that other place. I will say that I do prefer the tool section better at that other home DIY place than Lowes.
Your platform looks good, one of these days I want to build myself a platform as well.

 

I don't know why they tried to make AC into a DC with rear seat setup after 08. This setup was much more useful and already had a platform when the seat bottoms were folded forward.My old 05 AC.............





be nice if there an option for some different setup in the rear of new ACs..........

 

So to remove the cover panels to access the head rest bolts do you just pull on the panels at the top until the anchors start to pop out, and are the anchors integral to the panels, or are the replaceable if you break them

 

Where did you get the back resres done? Looks great!

 

No, you have to pop out the three little rectangle panels from the bottom edge and remove the three bolts first. I used a cell phone tool. Then you can pop out the panels but pull from the outer edges not where the fabric is. I only pulled out the top two rows and that was enough to get at head rest bolts.

 

I would love to duplicate those rear folding seats in my 15 AC, I’ve tried to watch parts prices and just can’t commit to the costs yet.

I cut a rectangle and covered it in carpet. Works for now in my Utility Package truck. But I’d love a more factory look after I get the vinyl flooring this summer.