Adding a DRL circuit for 3rd Gen SR & SR5's without DRL LED in headlights.

For those upgrading the headlamps that require the LED DRL circuit. DRL ON at IGN (High) and OFF when Low beam selected (Parking/Tail provides juice)(Dim LED DRL's).



Some are able to turn OFF the incandescent (Turn) bulbs in the Head Unit but still need the DRL input to OEM or Aftermarket headlights.



Or



D/C Battery NEG terminal & wait a few minutes.
Find choice low beam to add an add-a-fuse tap.
H-LP LH-LO = Headlamp Left Hand - LOW
H-LP RH-LO = Headlamp Right Hand LOW


This will be the input to turn OFF the added DRL relay. If you can acquire a low profile fuse in the 2A, https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0891002NXS?qs=5b8eIUDTsllqv1a3n5kgDQ==
but most out there are 5A which is fine.
The aux relay box is removed by pulling straight up. It has removable bottom cover.

The relay needs to be a 5 pin mini type. It uses female terminals of 0.187 size (x3) and 0.250 (x2) you'll be using just one of 1/4 size.
A low profile fuse holder for the juice input & output of the added DRL circuit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuse-Holde...ter-Proof-Fuses/143657932918?epid=24008315759


This fuse holder will stay on the inside tray accessible. The wires you route through the DRL slots on the tray since the vehicle doesn't have it. The added relay goes where the 4 Banger has the air pump relay. It's the only spot with 5 slots.



If the wires are long enough, there are more slots not used...especially on an SR/SR5.

On the added 5 pin relay, run the wires from below, strip -crimp -heat shrink the un-insulated female terminals as per drawing. Place the terminals on the relay, then carefully insert into slots of tray. The IGN & Power to the added DRL relay gets male terminals that will be wedged on the respective terminals of the Battery Charger Relay from below. So measure, strip-place heat shrink then crimp n shrink. Wedge then secure withe tape.


On the relay pin 5, it gets a double wire, one for each side of the truck headlights. The low beam source also gets routed out with these wires out of the aux box.
The Ground of the DRL relay also gets a male on one side to the Battery Charge relay ground. Heat shrink tube- strip - crimp - shrink. Wedge and tape in place.
Route the add-a-circuit wire out the same location the wires exit the Main Fuse Box.
Test
Button all up, tape/loom exterior wires.
Terminate DRL wires according to the headlights used.

Edit:

SR/SR5 with Halogen DRL have the OR/Pro DRL circuit. The connector (1F) at slot 30 is not populated.
It does the same function as the LED DRL circuit.
I'm still working on the terminal that fits the slot.

 

Caribe, you are brilliant...but, I'm not, can you or others please dumb this down for people like me. You were very helpful via PMs.

Here's what I'm looking to do with switchback halos on my 2020 SR5:
Stalk Selection:
DRL - White
Parking - Dimmed white DRL
Low beam - Dimmed white DRL with low beam
Turn Signal - Amber flashing

Looking at the info above I need to create an LED circuit using the low beam. Here's what I understand so far:
- Add A fuse to either the right or left low beam fuse located in the fuse box under the hood, doesn't matter left or right low beam...correct?
- I then need a 5 pin mini relay
- A low profile in-line fuse holder with a 2A fuse preferable, but 5A is ok
- The relay and in-line fuse holder will then be placed in the auxiliary relay box...where is this auxiliary relay box?

This is where I get lost: Maybe if the pictures get fixed it will help me to understand..but it probably won't lol.
On the added 5 pin relay, run the wires from below, strip -crimp -heat shrink the un-insulated female terminals as per drawing. Place the terminals on the relay, then carefully insert into slots of tray. The IGN & Power to the added DRL relay gets male terminals that will be wedged on the respective terminals of the Battery Charger Relay from below. So measure, strip-place heat shrink then crimp n shrink. Wedge then secure withe tape.


On the relay pin 5, it gets a double wire, one for each side of the truck headlights. The low beam source also gets routed out with these wires out of the aux box.
The Ground of the DRL relay also gets a male on one side to the Battery Charge relay ground. Heat shrink tube- strip - crimp - shrink. Wedge and tape in place.
Route the add-a-circuit wire out the same location the wires exit the Main Fuse Box.
Test
Button all up, tape/loom exterior wires.
Terminate DRL wires according to the headlights used.

I need to find a mini 5 pin relay that matches the Air Pump HTR Relay shape so it can plug in that spot, looks like a "T"?
What wires am I running from below?

Other than the end of terminating the DRL wires to the headlights used, in my case the Halos, this whole section is way over my head. Any help deciphering it or the wiring diagram would be appreciated.

The longer I stare at it, the more it is starting to make sense...but I may have reached my un-electrically trained brain limit.

Thanks to all ahead of time for your help.

 

Right next to the Main Fuse Box in the engine bay.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dnp-567-0002

All of them.

 

Ok, I think it’s all starting to make sense now. The power to turn the circuit on is coming from the battery charger relay (#5) next to the ground connection. I just connect male spades and wedge them in. This will energize the circuit when ever the ignition is on.
Then the Add A fuse to the low beam triggers the relay to turn off the halos when the low beams are switched on.
The 2 green wires coming from terminal 5 of the new relay are the new connections for the headlight DRLs, or in my case, the halos.
Then I turn off the DRLs in the head unit since they will come on every time the ignition is turned on.

Is there any connection with how the parking light selection affects this? Will the halos dim like the current OEM DRLs do, or will they just stay on full brightness along with the OEM DRL/Turn signal bulb?

If I turn off the DRLs in the head unit; could I just T Tap the front DRL/turn signal wire for the turn signals, instead of tapping the rear signals?

 

The spades go to the fuse holder then to the added relay and the battery charger relay (#5)

 

Test it out. Supply fused juice to each terminal on the halo, then turn off the DRL input. It should not affect if the terminals in the halo DO NOT mate internally. (back feed to each circuit; DTRL & Parking/Tail) Some have tied both circuits when they add the grill LED's and then wonder why they have the Parking lights ON when it should only be DRL.

 

Yes

 

Thanks for the replies Caribe.

If I decide not to use the stock DRL bulb/turn signal because I’m using halos. Instead of de-pinning the three wires that go in to the connector, I can just remove the DRL/turn signal/running light bulb, right?
Since it’s not a can bus system, I shouldn’t receive any errors is what I thought.

 

You are writing about the replacement/modded headlamp, correct?
It has halos that are DRL's/Turn signals & Dim with parking lights selected. Plus the original Turn Signal bulb...yes?

 

Sorry, yes...I’m talking about a retrofitted headlight. If I were to add halos to use as the DRL/turn signals and parking light. I wouldn’t have a use for the stock bulb.
Instead of de-pinning the stock SR5 DRL/turn signal/parking connector, could I just remove the bulb without receiving any errors?

 

The error most likely will be hyper flashing since the circuit would be missing the bulb and the halo is an LED.
I don't know the specs on the added Halo.


If you add a few connectors and sealed terminals there's no need to de-pin.

 

Here you'd keep the turn bulb in so it would be Parking illumination, but the TURN wire would only be to HALO and an added resistor to address the hyper-flash. Plug the unused port on the bulb connector.

 

This would be without the bulb in its place. Connector with plugs in all ports.

 

Thanks!

 

Let's say I don't want the DRLs or in my case, switchback halos to turn off when the low beams come on. I want the halos to come on when the ignition is turned on, dim with the parking lights and low beams, then turn off when the ignition is turned off.
My understanding is a relay would only be needed to utilize the low beams as the on/off switch to the DRL wires, right?

• Could I just run the wire from the IGN #5 in the Battery Charger Relay to the inline fuse holder than connect the two DRL wires to the output of the inline fuse holder? OR
• Would I need to set up the whole circuit in your original post, just without the Add A fuse to the low beam spot?

Below is the wiring for the Diode Dynamics switchback halos i'm looking at:

• White: White Low Power, 50 percent brightness
• Red: White High Power, 100 percent brightness
• Yellow: Signal, double brightness, flashing (dims if powered more than two seconds)
• Black: Ground

All input wires activate the halos, at different brightness levels. All amber-colored halos ship with low priority drivers. This means that if both low and high power inputs are powered, the LED will light up with low power level. This is convenient for connecting the red wire to a parking light or DRL signal, for use during the day as a high-power DRL. Then, if the white wire is connected to the headlamp power, they will dim down at night. If the yellow wire is powered at any time, the halo will light up at 200 percent brightness momentarily, intended for signalling (dims automatically if powered for more than two seconds).

Based on the wiring for the halos, my plan would be:

• Wire red halo wire to the new DRL wires created by your circuit for 100% brightness
• Wire the white halo wires to the stock parking light wire for 50% brightness
• Wire the yellow halo wire to the stock DRL/turn signal wire (with the DRL option not checked in the head unit)

Based on my plan, I will get 100% brightness when the engine is on with power from the battery charger relay #5. When I switch on parking lights or low beams, the halos would receive power from both the red and white halo wires...based on the low priority drivers of the halos, I would get 50% brightness.
Then I would get the turn signals from the front, with the DRL not selected in the head unit.
I would then ground the halos to the stock DRL/turn signal parking light connector ground.

Does this seem right?

 

Incorrect, it would require a fuse IGN source for ON at IGN and OFF after all OFF.
In order not to add more load to the IGN source of the Battery Charger Relay, I recommend the added relay. You could add other circuits in parallel later (that require FUSED IGN source.)
All is looks fine.
100% to added DRL circuit.
50% when Parking is selected.
And TURN with Head Unit turning OFF DRL.
I'd verify TURN relay performance with incandescent bulb out and TURN wire connected to HALO...to confirm Hyper-Flash or not.

 

Thanks, so is there a way to set up the circuit without having the DRLs turn off when the low beams are turned on?

I neglected to mention I'll be wiring in resistors to the halos to prevent hyperflash.

 

Wait I may have answered my own question. If I tap to the parking light as planned, when the low beams cut the circuit to the DRLs, the power would than come from the parking lights for 50% brightness for both parking lights and low beams.

 

Yes, I wrote that already. The added relay would be in parallel with the Battery Charger relay. The FUSED IGN source that turns ON the Battery Charger Relay would do the same for the added relay. You would not use the low beam add-a-circuit.