Adding a sub to a non-JBL Tacoma.

I had to supply RCA’s from the HU, power and ground cable.

 

Did you use one of those adapters for the HU?

 

I went with the Crutchfield JL Audio Stealthbox for my *access cab* truck. It looks factory and well worth the money. The 10" sub fits between the two rear "seats" and has nice durable fabric covering and tray indents set into the top for holding things. No cup holders though. Plus I grabbed a 1kW JVC amp from them also and wired it under my seat with a taco tunes mount. Stock head unit. Replaced all speakers with Focals from Crutchfield as well.

It sounds great but I have a VLF hum every once in a while even if the HU is turned off that I need to figure out, prob something coming in over the power line I'd guess...I used a huge 2AWG wire from the battery through the firewall to the amp and it may act like an antenna or something, not sure lol.

 

Not sure what you are asking. My HU is a Joying, it has RCA out for SW.

 

Oh and you have a 2nd Gen. Got it. I was asking about how you tapped into the stock audio signal. Not really applicable here.

 

I too went the 8" underseat Powered Sub. Spliced my rear speakers wires from behind the HU.

Won't compete with a bigger Sub behind the rear seats, but it adds a lot more bass regardless.

 

Which sub did you go with? And how does it sound?

So I got a line on the taco tunes locally … but it requires removal of the plastics behind the seat + sound insulation… which seems rather eh… was hoping for a better oem like solution, but the chick is hot

 

@maxmk8, it sounds good. And I only changed out the tweeters. All the doors speakers are still stock. You could never hear the rear speakers to begin with.

I got a no name brand Boss, off a friend fo $40. It's been fine for almost 5 years now, and still going strong. 600 watts, although I wouldn't call it real 600 watts....

 

Ah Gotchya. I Switched my tweeters also, now they are overpowering the door speakers… slippery slope. I think I’ll do the fronts with kicker cs + add a sub

 

I bounced between the idea of a small under seat sub or amplifying a good set of speakers. Nothing is going to produce bass like a good sized woofer and the Tacoma doesn't have the space for it without giving up utility. I know a pair of good 6x9's with good power will do it for me so that's what I'm going to start with. I figure if I want more bass I could then look into options of a sub behind the rear seat; but I don't really want to give up what little storage space the cab already has.

For reference my last truck was a Nissan Titan with a factory Rockford Fosgate stereo which had a crap 8" sub under the seat and I find the Tacoma's system to already sound better, even without a sub.

 

I don’t have any good pictures but I have the single 10” taco tunes box behind the passenger rear with an alpine sub and alpine amp under the drivers seat with kickers all round

 

This would fit in the large plastic bin...

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693330/JL-Audio-ACP108LG-W3v3.html


edit:

this one might fit too...

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P3008P/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-8P.html

 

If your're not looking for window shaking base, I went with Kicker tweets and Kicker CS series in front and rear, then added the Kicker Key mini amp to power the doors, the HU powers the tweeters. It give great balanced base for all types of music. Makes rap sound great without pissing off the neighbors. Picked up everything at crutch for around $600.

 

I installed Kicker speakers in the stock locations, installed an Alpine Powerpack

$290 KTP-445U Universal Power Pack

KTP-445U behind the HU, then I fibreglassed a sub enclosure into the right rear pocket behind the seats for an CerwinVega shallow mount 10" sub. I powered the sub with a Hertz DPower1 mono sub amp.

I chose these amps because they accepted line level in so I didn't need to install a line level converter. I just ran the speaker output off the back of the HU right into the amps.

I am happy with the sound. The factory HU is still the limiting factor. It rolls off bass as the volume gets higher and the rear speaker output is non existent.

Regardless the route you go, one peice of advice I would give, if staying with the factory HU, pull your sub input off the front channel, not the rear. The results will be much better.

 

Did you run the power pack straight to the battery or use the factory radio's? I'm probably going with the power pack because I'd like to keep the wiring simple if the factory wiring can handle it.

 

Right to the radio as shown in the instructions.

 

put in the

$280 Rockford p300-8P Punch 8" 300-Watt Amplified Subwoofer in Ported Enclosure - Slim Design for Tight Spaces - Black

Rockford p300-8P as a stop-gap for now - fits in the rear storage tub without removing it and has a built-in 300-watt RMS amp - it can rattle the windows a bit, but really just gives good strong supporting bass.

 

How did you hook it up to the rest of the system?

 

I have a sub out RCA due to an aftermarket HU - but it will take line-level inputs as well, so you could technically pull the signal out of a speaker wire.

 

Got it … this is the one ?

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P3008P/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-8P.html

? does it come with a wiring kit or is that one to be purchased separate.