Adding a sub to a non-JBL Tacoma.

I installed this Kicker 46TL7T82 Loaded 8" Subwoofer that is 350 watts RMS with two 4 ohm voice coils in parallel running at 2 ohms. The Kicker 08GL78 grill is optional.



https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646TL82/Kicker-46TL7T82.html?tp=112

I also previously installed Kicker CS series door speakers for 3 years before adding this sub and a Kicker 5 channel amp.

 

Yes, that is it - Mine did not come with a kit, I'd assume a mid-level 8g kit should be plenty at this power. I actually ran a higher end kit just so I wouldn't have to rewire if I decide to go down the more custom path in the future.

Honestly, the best thing about this is you don't have to modify anything behind the seat, and if you decide you need that space for a weekend trip or something - its unhook two wires and toss the box in the garage.

 

That thing looks like it fits really snug! that's great. It requires a separate amp right?

 

Yes it fits snugly! The grill will put some pressure on the edge of the bin and ensure the sub has no restrictions when operating.
There is a tiny fin in the bottom of the bin that needs to be trimmed. It will allow the enclosure to sit flat in the bin. The enclosure fit is perfect, nothing is forced to fit and the back of the seat is completely clear to operate.



I also added a 5 channel amp. This is a Kicker 46CXA660.5 to go with the 4 Kicker CS series door speakers. The amp outputs 300 watts RMS for the 350 watt subwoofer @ 2 ohms. The 4 ohm door speakers each get 65 watts RMS from the amp.

 

$41 Add An Amp Amplifier Adapter Interface to Factory OEM Car Stereo Radio System for select Toyota Scion Subaru Vehicles- Add Subwoofer Bass Amp etc.- No Factory Premium Amp- Vehicles listed below

https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-In...=1668537266&sprefix=rca+toyota,aps,170&sr=8-1


has anyone used this?

 

or this

Add an Amp Amplifier Adapter Interface to Factory Radio System for Toyota 2020 Tacoma Tundra Sequoia 4Runner,18-20 Camry Sienna,19-20 RAV4 Corolla,17-20 Prius

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09XWPX7P2?smid=ATLSCIHPT0H2C

 

You won't need this if the amp you buy has high level inputs.

 

Where would the inputs come from then ? A new wire coming from a set of speakers ? Seems like an adapter will be needed either way

 

I run a Certain Vega 10" underseat. Surprisingly it gets decent reviews and it really does live up to it. It produces a decent, clear-ish tone at a wide range of frequencies, and can rapid-fire thump with any drum solo.

...for an underseat.

Of course it will never come close to a proper enclosure or even a confined "low-pro" enclosure, but I knew that going in. Location is also far from ideal. If I was willing to give up even a smidgeon of my rear storage my first choice would be a small box behind the bench.

But this really isn't bad. I'd put it up against any other underseat on the market currently. It hits the lows and rounds out the sound stage for an enjoyable commute. It isn't competition grade. But it gives a "good 'nuff" sound for a little pickup truck, and I didn't have to sacrifice any space at all for it. That's a win.

 

If your using a 5 channel amp the sub audio is picked off internally for the sub output. You would need this just to pick off audio for a mono amp. Sorry if I confused things.

 

No worries. I don't plan on adding any sort of new amplifier. My plan is
Stock HU
+ Kicker CS fronts
+ Rear sub/powered

 

It is nice to keep access to your truck settings that are in the Toyota head unit. Power Sub nice! Like it!

 

This is so true - I spent alot of money getting the proper wiring hardness to keep all my controls, back up cam, and settings available - and I still find little things that I lost going to an aftermarket head unit (ability to see what speed my cruise is set at for example). I try to convince myself that having apple car play makes up for it....haha

 

I made my own adapter, but if you'd rather not I'd recommend buying one over tapping a speaker. Not only is it cleaner, but it keeps your signal upstream of any amp that you might add to the doors later.

And if you are adding a sub, you should probably upgrade the doors too. Otherwise it'll be impossible to balance.

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693330/JL-Audio-ACP108LG-W3v3.html

Has anyone tried this thing out? I am not sure if would fit behind the seat... I don't mind the small upcharge over others... The JL Stealthbox is just too much for what it is... + it needs a $350 amp... $1300-1400 all in sounds way too rich while still maintaining a shitty rest of the system.

 

I already updated the tweeters + i am changing the doors to kicker CS.

 

No, but I'm sure it sounds good - I haven't really heard any JL stuff that doesn't sound good. It is still an 8" sub in a 5" deep box, so you can only expect so much - part of the reason that I chose to go a bit cheaper for now. This is the first pickup that I have done, while trying to maintain all my seating and such, and it is a pain without spending loads of money.

 

That's what I have in mine. Subaru tweets, Kicker CS in all four doors. The 200.4 Key amp behind the dash helps balance that system. I'm not gonna lie, that speaker set is incredibly high on the treble, and the key's auto equalizer keeps that in check. It also keeps the door volume proportional to the sub, so that I'm not constantly fiddling with two volume knobs between each song. I hate systems that require you to "fiddle."

Food for thought.

 

I see the Kicker Key amp. I considered that jem for a while but it was always sold out. The Kicker amp I purchased would not fit under the front seat unless you put seat jackers in. The main issue is a bar under the rear of the seat that moves with the seat. Pretty much defines the small area the amp can occupy.

 

I love that amp. I have it shoehorned behind the dash. Great for space saving, but it also means that my gain and crossovers need to be perfectly dialed in during the install, then left the hell alone.