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Adding LOC + AMP to stock JBL for Fronts & Sub

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by gimmeajo, May 21, 2018.

  1. May 21, 2018 at 6:07 PM
    #1
    gimmeajo

    gimmeajo [OP] i'm here for the food

    Joined:
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    Zander
    New Orleans via New England
    Vehicle:
    '13 DCSB 4WD TRD OR
    OME 883, N140, N182, 265/75/16 Hankook ATMs, Weathertechs, chop front flaps, diff breather, killed seatbelt dinger
    So I'm trying to add an AMP to my '13 JBL system. There are a few threads on doing this for the sub only, but I also want to incorporate the Fronts.

    My goal is the get my Focal Component FRONTS and stock JBL SUB on a new JL Audio RD400/4 amp via LC6i... I will leave the stock JBL REARs on the stock JBL amp.

    I intend to sum the Fronts/Tweeters/Sub in the Main CH of an LC6i and run the 4-Sub wires in Ch.3, but I'm not sure exactly what wires I need to splice into and run to the LOC...

    I have a ‘13 JBL wiring diagram but photos would help because the diagram doesn't seem to correspond exactly to what I'm seeing in the pics I've found.

    The diagram seems out of order..

    Also in messing with my stock JBL amp, I noticed the bottom-most 4-wire harness seems to be the SUB OUTPUT, but I see in others photos that they spliced out of the top two wire harnesses..

    Any help with how exactly I go about wiring up the LOC is much appreciated!

    @shaneckc @Mr Marv I know you guys know!
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2018
  2. May 22, 2018 at 3:55 AM
    #2
    bear263

    bear263 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Member:
    #87716
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    653
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    Florida
    Vehicle:
    2013 PreRunner TRD SP
    LED interior lights. Steering wheel mod. New radio. Amp, speakers and sub woofer.
    The tweeters on a '13 JBL system are coming out of the amp from the blue plug (S31). TWL+ is pin 8, TWL- is pin 7. TWR- is pin 2 and TWR- is pin 6. TWL is the red w/white strip and red wires. TWR is blue and pink.
     
    gimmeajo [OP] likes this.
  3. May 24, 2018 at 3:47 AM
    #3
    gimmeajo

    gimmeajo [OP] i'm here for the food

    Joined:
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    Member:
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    Messages:
    358
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Zander
    New Orleans via New England
    Vehicle:
    '13 DCSB 4WD TRD OR
    OME 883, N140, N182, 265/75/16 Hankook ATMs, Weathertechs, chop front flaps, diff breather, killed seatbelt dinger
    Thank you! Work in the way until this Sunday. Hope the amp arrives before then!
     
  4. May 27, 2018 at 4:53 PM
    #4
    gimmeajo

    gimmeajo [OP] i'm here for the food

    Joined:
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    Member:
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    Messages:
    358
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Zander
    New Orleans via New England
    Vehicle:
    '13 DCSB 4WD TRD OR
    OME 883, N140, N182, 265/75/16 Hankook ATMs, Weathertechs, chop front flaps, diff breather, killed seatbelt dinger
    So today I ran the battery 4GA lead LOC+Amp location (behind rear passenger seat back). I also pealed back the e-tape on the stock amp wired to see what’s what. See the photos to get a better understanding..

    Fronts in the Top Harness:
    Light Green - FR+
    Blue - FR-
    Pink - FL+
    Purple - FL-

    Tweeters in the Blue Harness:
    Red/White - TWL+
    Red - TWL-
    Blue - TWR+
    Pink - TWR-

    Sub is the Bottom Harness (I believe these wires are looping from the Top Harness, but these are the feed to the actual subwoofer):
    Green/Yellow - WFL+
    Green/White - WFL-
    Blue/Black - WFR+
    Blue/Purple - WFR-

    The last pic is of the White Harness below the Blue Harness, I believe the Gray wire is ACC, which I can tap into for Remote Turn-ON?

    Can anyone confirm I've got this pegged? @shaneckc @Mr Marv @bear263 @kevinsc

    I will splice into all of these wires to the 3-inputs on the LC6i Line-Out Converter, sum all the channels to the main out. run the Main to 2-channels of the JL amp, and run the SUB from Ch.3 of the LOC to the other 2 channels of the JL amp. The rears will remain on the stock JBL amp. Pics to follow.

    TACOMA_JBL_AMP.jpg
    JBL_FrontFeed.jpg
    JBL_TweeterFeed.jpg
    JBL_SUBFeed.jpg
    JBL_ACC.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2018
  5. May 27, 2018 at 4:55 PM
    #5
    gimmeajo

    gimmeajo [OP] i'm here for the food

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2013
    Member:
    #117971
    Messages:
    358
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Zander
    New Orleans via New England
    Vehicle:
    '13 DCSB 4WD TRD OR
    OME 883, N140, N182, 265/75/16 Hankook ATMs, Weathertechs, chop front flaps, diff breather, killed seatbelt dinger
    This is the wiring diagram I found:
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Jun 5, 2018 at 6:04 PM
    #6
    gimmeajo

    gimmeajo [OP] i'm here for the food

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2013
    Member:
    #117971
    Messages:
    358
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Zander
    New Orleans via New England
    Vehicle:
    '13 DCSB 4WD TRD OR
    OME 883, N140, N182, 265/75/16 Hankook ATMs, Weathertechs, chop front flaps, diff breather, killed seatbelt dinger
    So the plan and photos in Post #4 turned out to be correct. It all worked out great.

    Tapping into the Gray wire, does work as Remote. And the Sub Out is the Bottom harness with the two twisted pairs.

    Once into the LOC, you sum the Tweeters and Front channels, output to Main and BOOOOM! You have a nice fat FULL RANGE signal to feed to your amp.

    Note: I ended up removing the Sub channel from the Summing because I believe the Fronts+Tweeters give you full range.

    Running the front Focal Components and stock Sub off the JL amp, while leaving the stock rears on the stock JBL amp is working great. Sounds amazing. I now have full range in the front doors, crossover and level control of the sub, and effectively drown out the rears.

    Tuning everything is difficult, especially because the (3) LOC outputs and summing becomes confusing on how to set in conjunction with the amp gains...
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2019

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