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Adding Monoblock amp to JBL system need help

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by curtissp, Nov 3, 2018.

  1. Nov 3, 2018 at 4:07 PM
    #1
    curtissp

    curtissp [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hello im adding subs wanting to remove the JBL sub that is in the back. But for some reason when I unplug it I have no sound?????????

    Do I have to use both amps??
    If so what wire do I have to bypass the stock JBL subwoofer???
     
  2. Nov 3, 2018 at 4:16 PM
    #2
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I fix people's crappy stereos

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    Jbl amp runs all 7 speakers in the truck. You just need a line-out converter hooked up to the factory subwoofer wires. That will get you RCA outputs to your new subwoofer amp.
     
  3. Nov 3, 2018 at 4:30 PM
    #3
    curtissp

    curtissp [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Never seen that done before do you have a picture of how to do it??
     
  4. Nov 3, 2018 at 4:32 PM
    #4
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I fix people's crappy stereos

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    no, but it's pretty easy!

    what year is your truck and i can give some specifics
     
  5. Nov 3, 2018 at 6:30 PM
    #5
    curtissp

    curtissp [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2010 Tacoma TRD Off road
     
  6. Nov 3, 2018 at 6:40 PM
    #6
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I fix people's crappy stereos

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    So you'll want a LOC (line-out converter)
    It can be fairly cheap. $10-15

    It will have 2 pairs of wires, usually a white, white/black pair
    and a grey, grey/black pair

    Unplug the JBL sub. The connector will have 4 wires on it

    You want to wire it up as follows

    • LOC white to JBL green/yellow
    • LOC white/black to JBL green/white
    • LOC grey to JBL blue/black
    • LOC grey/black to JBL blue/red

    Now you have a set of RCA outputs that you can connect to your new amplifier.
     
  7. Nov 3, 2018 at 7:09 PM
    #7
    curtissp

    curtissp [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That does sound easy! Which connectors are for the sub??

    Will this LOC work for this application??

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PAC-SN...pid=28015220034&hash=item2cddfed154:rk:1:pf:0
     
  8. Nov 3, 2018 at 7:32 PM
    #8
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I fix people's crappy stereos

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    That will definitely work! PAC is a great brand.

    What do you mean which connector is for the sub?
     
  9. Nov 4, 2018 at 11:34 AM
    #9
    mctechhweng

    mctechhweng Well-Known Member

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    I've had bad experiences with PAC. I don't think they fully thought through some of their integration products.

    I used the RP4.2-TY11 and the damn thing loses all of it's settings every time you disconnect the battery. For me this was a fatal flaw... Non-volatile-settings > volatile-settings
     
  10. Nov 4, 2018 at 2:16 PM
    #10
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I fix people's crappy stereos

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    I’m not sure if that is normal. I use the 4.2 a lot (as well as the RP5 lineup and the rest of the RP4 lineup) and I have never had that issue.
     
  11. Nov 4, 2018 at 2:28 PM
    #11
    curtissp

    curtissp [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ehhh I'm feeling overwhelmed I'm about to pay someone to finish it

    20181104_150647.jpg
     
  12. Nov 4, 2018 at 2:33 PM
    #12
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I fix people's crappy stereos

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    Well I’m hoping to goodness you have a fuse up at the battery for your power wire. If so, no need for a second one back at the amp.

    Other than that, wire up your LOC with the wire colors I gave earlier, and you’re pretty much done
     
  13. Nov 4, 2018 at 2:37 PM
    #13
    curtissp

    curtissp [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The power wire not hooked up yet. Was gonna run the ANL fuse inside the cab.. is that not good? Also dunno where to mount the stock amp because the wire are back there.
     
  14. Nov 4, 2018 at 3:00 PM
    #14
    mctechhweng

    mctechhweng Well-Known Member

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    You need to fuse the power wire within 18 inches of the battery if you don't want to catch your truck on fire and damage the electrical system.

    The fuse is to protect the wire/battery, not the amp. The amp should have it's own fuse. If you don't fuse that wire at the battery and it gets grounded somewhere you'll be very unhappy with the result.

    Feel free to have a second fuse in the cab, but not fusing the wire at the battery is a fatal sin.
     
    xxTacocaTxx likes this.
  15. Nov 4, 2018 at 3:27 PM
    #15
    rob feature

    rob feature Tacos!

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    +1 - you want a fuse as close as possible to the battery. Then amp fuses out back.

    What amp is that - Wolfram? Never seen one of those!
     
  16. Nov 4, 2018 at 3:56 PM
    #16
    mctechhweng

    mctechhweng Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone know where to get some connectors or a T harness to relocate the factory amp?
     
  17. Nov 4, 2018 at 4:17 PM
    #17
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I fix people's crappy stereos

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    None that I’ve ever found
     
  18. Nov 4, 2018 at 4:18 PM
    #18
    curtissp

    curtissp [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the advice!
    Wolfram is a new company and I tell you what these amps are badass!! I ran it in a test bench and it hit a solid 3190 watts and its rated at 2400 c mono I got it on pre order with a special code for $189 I think its $250 now but they are starting out and have the best deals per watts in the market now!! Check them out for sure!!

    Also the amps are strapable so you can get over 6k watts for under $500!!
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2018
  19. Nov 4, 2018 at 4:19 PM
    #19
    destin_meeks

    destin_meeks I fix people's crappy stereos

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    I’d make sure to put a multi-meter on it and set your gain accordingly so you don’t blow those shallow subs. I don’t know many shallow 12”s rated for 1200rms
     
  20. Nov 4, 2018 at 4:28 PM
    #20
    curtissp

    curtissp [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Oh for sure I'm gonna turn my gain way down. Those are mediocre 10" Skar VD shallow subs. I got 2 of those for $149 on ebay. I'm thinking about cutting another hole out and running 3 of them but might be limited on air space. I'm just worried I cant find a place to hide that amp because the bracket is hanging on it screwed in from the inside. I wanna just get a channel amp and get rid of it but that might call for rewiring the whole JBL system.
     
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