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Advice for changing my own brakes

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016+)' started by Ecko380, Dec 6, 2020.

  1. Dec 6, 2020 at 2:18 PM
    #1
    Ecko380

    Ecko380 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hi there I wanted to know if anyone know of a great video that I could use to do my own brake job on my 2016 Toyota Tacoma sport? I went to the dealership and they wanted to charge me $537 just to do the front brakes I told him no way. I saw a couple of videos on YouTube about using a C clamp to push the calipers back in but I also saw that doing this can cause some lights to turn on your dash. Any information would be greatly useful.
     
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  2. Dec 6, 2020 at 2:22 PM
    #2
    GreyBaldTaco

    GreyBaldTaco Well-Known Member

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  3. Dec 6, 2020 at 2:36 PM
    #3
    Law950

    Law950 Well-Known Member

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    Following this post because I'd like to do my own brake job on a 2017 TRD-OR.
     
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  4. Dec 6, 2020 at 2:39 PM
    #4
    Woodrow F Call

    Woodrow F Call Kindling crackles and the smoke curls up...

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  5. Dec 6, 2020 at 2:46 PM
    #5
    GreyBaldTaco

    GreyBaldTaco Well-Known Member

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    This works faster.
     
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  6. Dec 6, 2020 at 2:49 PM
    #6
    TacoMoose

    TacoMoose Well-Known Member

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    C clamp works great. Been using that for years on many different cars
     
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  7. Dec 6, 2020 at 3:08 PM
    #7
    TA2016

    TA2016 Well-Known Member

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    This video may be helpful.
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FLiedgXMxXs
     
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  8. Dec 6, 2020 at 3:12 PM
    #8
    TacoLpastor

    TacoLpastor Well-Known Member

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    I use channel locks to depress the piston.
     
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  9. Dec 6, 2020 at 3:23 PM
    #9
    tacotoe

    tacotoe Pastry Chef

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    At 60 some thousand miles I did the wife's 2nd gen. Just used a c clamp to compress the piston, if you never added brake fluid you shouldn't have to worry about it flowing out the reservoir. My method is to crack the reservoir cap loose before compressing piston, and I do passenger side first. There was so little wear on the rotors that I didn't even have them turned. Just used Toyota pads IIRC about $60.00
     
  10. Dec 6, 2020 at 3:23 PM
    #10
    17toytacoma

    17toytacoma Well-Known Member

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    I used this video when I did mine back in the spring. I didn't have a c clamp or that awesome brake tool so I used a big screw driver on the old pads. I also changed the rotors while I was there.
     
  11. Dec 6, 2020 at 3:36 PM
    #11
    3JOH22A

    3JOH22A Cunning Linguist

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    Just put a screwdriver or pry bar between the pad and rotor to push the pistons back. Damage to the ABS module is unlikely (Eric at South Main Auto hasn't seen it after 1000+ brake jobs). However, if you're concerned, make your own bleeder bottle, crack open the bleeder, then push the pistons back. That way, the fluid displaced by the pistons will go into the bleeder bottle rather than up into the ABS module.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2020
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  12. Dec 7, 2020 at 5:06 AM
    #12
    Ecko380

    Ecko380 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thank you everyone for all the information I greatly appreciate it. I have one more question what about as far as adding anti-seize or lubrication to stop squeaking noise when installing new pads?
     
  13. Dec 7, 2020 at 5:33 AM
    #13
    tonered

    tonered tacorider

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    Just my method, but don't worry about the reservoir cap. Crack open the bleed nipple while driving back the pistons. Then, you have most of the brake bleeding finished instead of forcing the worst of the fluid back up the line.
     
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  14. Dec 7, 2020 at 5:45 AM
    #14
    tacotoe

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    I used the factory replacement pads from Toyota. I didn't put anything on the pads and no noise or squeaks. That was 35k miles ago.
     
  15. Dec 7, 2020 at 6:00 AM
    #15
    suprafastcelica

    suprafastcelica Well-Known Member

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    When pushing the caliper piston back into the caliper, loosen the bleeder. It will somewhat keep the bleeder from seizing and the extra brake fluid will get pushed out of the system. I think that is what messes the system up.
     
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  16. Dec 7, 2020 at 6:09 AM
    #16
    Plain Jane Taco

    Plain Jane Taco I have become comfortably numb

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    A little antiseize on the pins won't hurt. And in case someone hasn't mentioned it.....Akebono pads are awesome.

    And I have never had to crack a bleeder valve doing a brake job. The system is closed and the fluid level in the reservoir will lower and raise a bit depending on the pad/shoe wear. If it overflows from the reservoir when the pistons are compressed than someone probably added fluid to it thinking it was low....when it was just worn pads. Once you have everything done, start the rig and pump the brakes a few times, then check the fluid level. Pull or add as necessary with your favorite DOT 3 or 4.

    Replaced mine in the spring.

    20200201_101658.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2020
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  17. Dec 7, 2020 at 6:10 AM
    #17
    tacotoe

    tacotoe Pastry Chef

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    I got away from opening bleeder valves due to breaking a couple off over the years. Harsh chemicals they put on the roads here take their toll on undercarriage parts. I've done it both ways. Also find that brake fluid is nasty so if you go loosening the bleeder route, use a 6 point socket or wrench and keep plenty of brake parts cleaner on hand.
     
  18. Dec 7, 2020 at 6:12 AM
    #18
    tacotoe

    tacotoe Pastry Chef

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    I may have used high temp brake grease on those pins myself. It's been quite awhile, but it wouldn't hurt.
     
  19. Dec 7, 2020 at 6:55 AM
    #19
    tonered

    tonered tacorider

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    It is up to you, but it is a good practice to bleed the brakes every two or three years. A small dab of antiseize on the threads should last the light of your vehicle if the nipples are a problem.
     
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  20. Dec 7, 2020 at 6:58 AM
    #20
    kgilly

    kgilly Well-Known Member

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    will be doing my 2016 over christmas, have 65k on my front pads and will need them replaced, easy to do...
     
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