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advice on premade wiring harness.

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by ross123, Mar 3, 2012.

  1. Mar 3, 2012 at 1:06 PM
    #1
    ross123

    ross123 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    fort bragg
    ok i bought 2 7" kragens and a switch from http://www.otrattw.com/ im looking for a premade wiring harness that comes with a fuse and rely. ive never wired up lights before thats why im looking for a premade kit to make it easier for me. i found a bunch online but im not sure on what amp the rely should be and so on. any help woulf be great.
     
  2. Mar 3, 2012 at 3:59 PM
    #2
    iroc409

    iroc409 Well-Known Member

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    I think there's some good guides on here if you want to give it a go--but I recommend using quality relays. 12V power systems are pretty simple, and work pretty much the same as a garden hose with running water.

    However, Rallylights.com has custom lighting harnesses and is well regarded. I bought some Hella lights from them, and they were good to work with. I did have a broken bulb from the order and never received a replacement, but otherwise they have good service.
     
  3. Mar 3, 2012 at 4:47 PM
    #3
    whatatoy

    whatatoy Galt/Rearden 2012

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    This truck is a work truck - not a lot of fancy mod's here, but it's getting the job done!
    I'd suggest doing it yourself or havinga buddy help out in exchange for pizza and beer... the cost will be way cheaper and you'll get it the way you want it...

    http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/foglites.htm

    Plus, when you're done, you've learned something that you can apply later for say, the crazy LED mod's everyone is doing... though LED's don't really require a relay.

    that's my $0.02
     
  4. Mar 3, 2012 at 7:18 PM
    #4
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2

    X2

    I always do my own harnesses. Most auto parts stores have harnesses available, but they don't impress me. My local NAPA sells wire by the foot. I buy what I need as I need it and either wrap it in a good quality 3M tape or buy some split plastic wire loom to cover it all up and make it look clean. There's a general electrical thread on here somewhere that will help you. Or feel free to post up with specific questions.
     
  5. Mar 4, 2012 at 1:54 PM
    #5
    ross123

    ross123 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    fort bragg
    yeah i guess im just looking for a basic wiring diagram. ive never used a rely before so im not sure where all the wires need to hook up. also should i run right from the battery or splice into preexisting wire or would it be better the run a new fuse?. i want to be able to turn the lights on whenever i want while the trucks running.
     
  6. Mar 4, 2012 at 2:52 PM
    #6
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    http://www.stu-offroad.com/electrical/elec5/lights-1.htm

    This page has a good diagram with the relay pin numbers on it. If you have a pair of 55W lights, 14 gauge wire will be sufficient for the entire circuit. Anything higher than that and I will use 12 gauge for the hi amperage side of the circuit (from the battery to the relay, then out to the lights).

    Run a new wire from the battery, install an inline fuse as close as possible to the battery positive terminal. That fuse should be 15 amps for two 55W lights. Run 14 gauge wire from the battery to the fuse holder, then to the relay's 30 terminal. Run 14 gauge from the 87 terminal of the relay to the positive side of your lights. Ground the lights. That's the high amp side of the circuit.

    For the switch side of the circuit (low amps), you can tap into any existing wire you want. I would tap into the cigarette lighter circuit, so the lights always go off with the key. Run another wire from the circuit that you choose to tap into and connect that wire through a switch to the relay's 85 or 86 terminal. The other 85 or 86 terminal gets connected to ground. I recommend you add a small 3 or 5 amp fuse at the point where you tap into the existing circuit. I use 14 gauge here also, but it's overkill, you could go with smaller wire as long as you put a small fuse in there to protect the small wire from burning up if something shorts out.
     
  7. Mar 4, 2012 at 3:02 PM
    #7
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    If you'd really just rather buy something premade, just make sure the kit has an included 15 amp fuse and you should be good to go as long as you only have two 55W lights to run off of it. They should have sized the wire and relay properly for the fuse they included. It's rare to find an automotive relay rated less than 20 amps, and I've never seen an auxillary light harness designed for less than two 55W lights/15Amps.

    I like doing this stuff myself from scratch, but I totally understand wanting plug and play. Kragen, O'Reily, NAPA, Autozone, etc should have a standard harness in the store for under 20 bucks. NAPA should have individual relays, switches, and terminals in stock also, at least ours does.
     
  8. Mar 4, 2012 at 4:56 PM
    #8
    RacerP

    RacerP Well-Known Member

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    I had been investigating making my own harness for the 7" Kragen HIDs I bought from the group buy...had been at the big box parts stores and looked into relays and wiring and connectors...the 30 amp relay was $8, and every spool of wire was $7 no matter if 10 gauge or 16 gauge, plus all the connectors, and switch

    I ended up buying this kit:

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-85937/

    Haven't gotten it yet, but for the price...
     
  9. Mar 4, 2012 at 5:40 PM
    #9
    ross123

    ross123 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    fort bragg
    Thanks alot for all the input. I'm also wiring 2 7" kragens from the group buy
     
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