Advise on fluid film diy

You can get them in aerosol cans. Way less messy.
If you have a clean area, use a tarp to catch drips.
3 or 4 cans should be enough. Aerosol goes on fine and can use the plastic straw tip to get into frames and doors.
Another option is CorrosionX. Good stuff but stay with aerosol can than the spray bottle. It comes out too thick. It doesn't last forever. For those living in snowy areas, I'd do it before every winter season.
As mentioned, get some good ramps, gloves , mask and have fun. My frame and underside looks new.
Doesn't need to to be mentioned but, cover your brake disc.
The car is a '96 and it gets compliments from service techs. No rust corrosion anywhere.

 

not sure how you guys are getting away with just a few spray cans of FF. i use a few cans on the bottom of doors, tailgate, under hood. then spray 2-3 quarts with the "kit gun" on the underside, and frame. at 10 bux a spray can, you can buy the kit, with several wands, and spray heads, and a gallon of product, and just buy the sprayable material every other year or so. Ski

 

Any advice on how long to let it sit after applying or how long to at least leave cardboard out after, if at all?

 

Depends where you live. In Hawaii we deal with a lot of rust and corrosion. If I lived up north where it snows heavy and salt sprayed on roads then I'd go your route for sure. For here, aerosol is enough to leave a coating.

 

It's just refined petroleum oil . Consistency is like a light weight oil. You'll get most of it during spraying and some drips afterwards. Not much.

 

Great beginner kit, same one I have. Woolwax is just like fluid film but is supposed to be thicker so it is less susceptible to road spray. Its also supposed to smell less.

https://www.kellsportproducts.com/W...arts-PRO-GUN-with-2-Extension-wands_p_67.html

I found it was slightly cheaper ordering direct vs Amazon. I even found a discount code on another forum; google fluid film vs woolwax, and you should find it.

good luck!

edit: using a 6 gallon compressor. It works good enough, but kicks on often.

 

Thanks. I live at an apartment complex and I'm sure they'd love dripping.

 

@jpereira2

 

I call bull shit on this.

I get 2 trucks/gallon of fluid film. He is only charging $50 for the labor. 3hrs to do the job? ridiculous!

 

I'm not familiar with fluid film but this is my 3rd year with undercoating and I would let it sit/ drip for at least 10-24 hrs. Then find a dry dirt road to drive on at least once a week so it can cling and add a layer of protection with the film against road salts. Good Luck!

 

Not at all! If he's truly spraying for 3 hours that means he's getting all the nooks and crannys which is what you want! Look it up!! Its called krown. They have fixed rates. I watched him do it the first time as I was skeptical as well why would I lie?

 

Spray it on. Clean up. Drive it. It does not need to sit for any amount of time. And you do not need to find a dirt road. Just drive it as you always had. Way too much over thinking. Ramps, fluid film and or woolwax. A couple of hours. Back to normal.

 

The dirt definitely helps. This is just my opinion.

 

Helps what? The Fluidfilm and or Woolwax do the job . Driving over time will pick up dirt. Its not needed but will happen. No need to make it happen sooner.

 

What coating do you use?

Yeah, I've heard that theory too, but I cannot help but wonder how that works when the dirt road is covered in brine or the salty water is now held to the frame longer because it is soaked into the dirt.

 

Yeah if using spray cans a minimum of 5 will barely make it. I used a can plus just to get inside those frame sections, and not much ever dripped out.

 

Saw a guy here do that on a chevy car. A friend bought this car years later thinking it was taken good care by this rustproofing. It had so much rust, and wet crud packed in every cranny of the chassis it took us hours to power wash it out. The car was not in good shape when done as thought.

 

So instead of the salt being directly on your choice of undercoating it is now on the dirt layer which is protecting the undercoating. The dirt is simply another layer of protection against the salt... I use Krown which is corn based, it is essentially hydrophobic.

 

But what product are you talking about? You have to realize there are tons of different undercoating products out there and they are applied differently. Some Harden which is bad and some are oil based do your research.

 

Yes, but dirt gets wet and salt doesn't just come out of the water. Not to mention if there's brine in the dirt to begin with, then it's just essentially salty dirt. That's kind of the point I was wondering about.

Good to know. I've heard good things about Krown, but the test results weren't great. The test was hardly scientific, but maybe there was a difference in the amount applied? Not sure entirely.