Ahh damn, my rear axle seals are leaking?

The fact that I have to explain this a 3rd time backs up my claim you aren't listening to what I'm trying to tell you. The "inner retainer" that mates with the axle seal and the "outer retainer" that sits against the bearing are BOTH the same part number on an ABS rear end. So, let's do some addition together. 2 per axle and there's 2 axles, 2+2 =4. Is that clear enough? Because they are the same part number, you can swap their positions on the axle and SAVE MONEY. It's not ideal to run the retainer that was mating with the seal because that retainer has a witness mark and the metal has microscopically been worn down there and might not offer as leak-proof of a mating if the new seal rides on the same spot. So, you swap the positions and now the one that was sitting against the bearing with a perfect machined shoulder is mating with the new seal.

I've reused these parts on multiple axles and the fact that they NEED to be pressed back on means they fit pretty damn tight on the axle. The inner retainer has absolutely no load on it because it's just what the seal rides on. And, like you admitted, the outer retainer has a snap ring that holds the outer retainer and bearing in place. A subscriber to our channel accidentally forgot to remove the snap ring and tried to press the axle shaft out. It held back a tremendous amount a force and the guy couldn't get the axle shaft free. So, even if you're right and the retainer has been stretched some, that retainer is not going anywhere.

The reason for my strong tone is I get annoyed when I feel like somebody isn't listening and I'm just talking to hear myself talk. I honestly still don't know if you're going to really read what I've said and grasp what I'm trying to tell you.

If you prefer to use a hammer and chisel on your axle and risk a missed strike that gouges your axle, you go right ahead. By the way, you proclaim this chisel technique is an accepted practice used for decades but this is the first I've heard of it. This rear axle seal issue on Tacomas and 4runners has been discussed ad nauseam on multiple forums and multiple threads and not once have I heard of somebody using a chisel on their axles. I have heard of shops using a cutting disk, which also risks damaging the axle shaft, but never using a chisel to split the retainer. Now, maybe if you first do a cut into the retainer and then finish it off with the chisel to split it, I can see that. Using just a chisel and hammering away on it until it splits doesn't sound like a great technique. It sounds like the technique you use when you don't have the right tools for the job.

So, I will do as I see fit and continue to do it my way saving the people I help a bunch of money. I'm done with this conversation.

 

I just ordered new bearings from Toyota. They didn't come with retainers.
I'm pretty sure Toyota mechanic's and most machine shops would cringe at using a chisel on a machined surface.
When I have mine done. I'll reuse the tone ring and retainers.

 

"The reason for my strong tone is I get annoyed when I feel like somebody isn't listening and I'm just talking to hear myself talk. I honestly still don't know if you're going to really read what I've said and grasp what I'm trying to tell you."



Waaaaaaayyy, they not listening to me mom.
Make them listen. I made a video, waaaaaaayy. They're not listening.............mom !


The reason for your loud tone is your immaturity and general lack of civility.
Just because others reject what you offer doesn't mean they didn't hear it or grasp it.

Maybe someday you'll get it, maybe you will not.

 

Trust me, I get it. And, you didn't grasp what I was telling you because you couldn't understand there's two retainers per axle. So, you're either stupid or you weren't paying attention to what I was saying.

I also have been known to call it like it is. So let me clear, before your last comment, I thought you were a moron. Now, I think you're a moron and a dick. If you're subscribed to my channel, please unsubscribe. I don't need idiots like you asking stupid questions and then not paying attention to the answer you receive.

 

Wow, A slight difference of opinion on an internet forum and you're about to have a stoke.

I bet you're a lot of fun to be around.

Pay a lot of child support ?

 

Not a difference of opinion. Somebody in this conversation actually knows what they are talking about with this repair and that person isn't you. You don't know what the hell you are talking about and shouldn't of shared your idiotic ideas. Sharing bad information has consequences. Now because of you, some poor guy is going to take a chisel and hammer to his rear axle and screw it up.

You sound like somebody who can't admit when he's wrong and you are dead wrong with how to properly perform this repair. At least I'm a man enough to admit when I've made a mistake and can learn from others and use their ideas when I can see their way is much better. I've learned a ton from forums like this and from people who have commented on my channel. Something tells me I can't learn anything valuable from you.

Like I've said many times, there's no shortage of idiots and a-holes in this world and you just helped back up my claim.

 

Somehow this thread linked to me a thread on Pirate about a guy who's rear axle shaft exploded on his way back to the US from Baja and left him stranded 300 miles from the border....great now I have something other than my LBJs to freak me out while driving lol.

 

I'm sure you are an awe inspiring mechanic.

It's your character and manners that need work.

Have a good life.

 

I can only tell you what happened when I did mine. I could spin the ABS tone rings if I muscled them hard enough. I never tried to spin the retainers. It wasn't worth chancing it for me when the Toyota dealer is just a few blocks away. I had no desire to end up with an ABS code or shoes soaked in oil and ruined bearings. Once the oil go through the bearing it's as good as junk. I never used heat just this set of tools

https://www.ebay.com/itm/REAR-AXLE-...855944?hash=item2ec58d2008:g:-V4AAOSwM4xXbamX

It's been over a year now and no leaks and that's all that matters. I'm sure I'm not the first to say this, but the rear bearing and seal design is pretty piss poor even by Toyota standards. There's too much stuff to screw up and if that one retainer is not in the sweet spot have fun doing this mess all over again

 

Look @Petrol

@Timmah! tried to correct you since you were posting incorrect information on this forum. Maybe you were talking about a NON ABS axle, which would only have 1 retainer per axle shaft. This would be on the Toyota "8.4". This forum is about sharing knowledge and you were arguing against facts.

The chisel and hammer technique may work, but that doesn't mean that it's the suggested method. That method originated because people didn't have the proper tool to do the job.

The mechanic that I took my axles to was able to reuse all 4 retainers and ABS rings which saved me $140. I paid him $130 to swap bearings. He was able to do this because he had made the proper tool to do the job.

Just because it's been done before, doesn't mean it's the best way to do it.

 

I've done both rear axle seals/bearings and have used @Timmah! (Toyotas) method. I honestly can't understand how it would be easier to chisel off any of the parts when you can press them all out together.

Also just my 2 cents, if you don't have ABS it doesn't really matter if you reuse the old ABS ring. I did find it strange that even though my Tacoma didn't have ABS it still had the ABS ring.

In any event @Timmah! is the man!! I Did my axle seals based on his videos, along with Tundra brake upgrade, and other maintenance repairs. Thanks @Timmah!

 

So I doing some needed work to my truck and when I was under it today I see this.

The oil is on the outside of the back of the rear axel.

I guess I will open up the drum area tomorrow to look.

Any ideas?

Rear axle seal?
Or brake related part.

I’ve never had a rear seal go out before

 

Jack up the rear end, take off the tire, remove the drum and take a look. There's a huge difference between gear oil and brake fluid so you will know what exactly is leaking.

 

See if your loosing brake fluid. Wipe the wet area of your backing plate with a paper towel and take a wiff. Brake fluid and gear oil have very distinct odors.

 

Another thing you can do is chock one of your front wheels fore and aft. Jack up the rear end and settle the axle on jack stands. Remove the wheel and remove the ABS sensor from the axle housing. Have the parking brake off and put the transmission in neutral. Using a flashlight, look into the ABS sensor hole at the ABS tone ring while turning the axle. If you see gear oil lapping up on the teeth of the tone ring, your axle seal has failed. My bet is your axle seal has failed.

If that is the case, I recommend doing the job right by replacing the bearing and other associated parts. And, you should do the other axle as well because it's not too far behind from failing if it hasn't already failed. The video below will show you everything you need to know regarding this repair. Be sure to read the video description as well as the comment I pinned because there's lots of additional helpful information that's not in the video.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/AVhSDnw2ugo

 

(for people who search in the future and find this thread...I know Timmy the Toolman has detailed videos for this job, but I thought it would be nice to have a printable step by step write-up to follow as well)

Just a heads up that I had to replace the rear axle seals on my 3rd gen 4Runner and 1st gen Taco - both in the last month. Required a few special tools, and of course the requisite parts, but was a reasonably straight forward job (full story).

Wrote up the list of tools needed, all the parts (with numbers) and a detailed step-by-step guide in a printable format here:

Step-by-Step Replacing Rear Axle Seal & Bearing w/ABS (1st gen Tacoma or 3rd gen 4Runner)​

​

 

I guess the ultimate flattery is somebody duplicating your work in another form. I've seen this done before where a guy prefers write-ups over videos. You obviously put in a lot of time to create this write-up and I guess write-up fans will love you for it. I prefer videos over write-ups and i guess that's why I have a YouTube channel and make videos. Write-ups are 2-dimensional and don't offer near the detail a video can. But, you know what they say, to each his own. Some like chocolate ice cream while others like vanilla.

 

Great video my man! You contribute a lot of value to people and I appreciate it.

I watched this video and it is an awesome resource with a lot going on! I do have a quick question in regards to the wheel bearing. You said to cover your bases and replace it anyway if your source is an axle seal leak (I'm going to check here soon).

I'm definitely not going to be doing any of the pressing of sorts, but I was wondering if I could still take it to a shop down the street to press out and press in the new rear left wheel bearing?

My concern is the measuring part where you did the axle test and needed to press it 1mm more (if I'm not mistaken). Is this something the shop does there or will they need my Tacoma on site?

I appreciate your time!

 

You can take it to a shop to do the pressing, but you will need to do some measuring.

While it's helpful to have the truck there, you can generally get the pressing done correctly either the first or second (small adjustment) time, so you could probably get away without having the truck.

@Timmah!'s video shows you how you need 5mm (though for me it was 3mm) of shiny shaft showing. This is to center the axle seal on the retainer.

So, my recommendation is when you start to see polished axle showing below the inner retainer, slow down. You will ultimately want 3- to 5mm of polished axle showing in order for everything to line up. So when you get to 3mm - which you can measure with a 3mm Allen wrench - stop. I went to 5mm initially, and it was too far! (an easy fix with the Bearing Puller and Tone Ring tool, but something I could have avoided).



Then, take the axle(s) back to your truck and draw some sharpie lines across the retainer. Carefully insert them into the new seals and rotate the axles to wear off the sharpie where the seal contacts the retainer:



If you're centered (as above) then you're good to go. If you're not centered, take it back to the shop and have them move the ring the appropriate amount to center it.

...that would make 2 attempts (at most) to get it right.