Air Conditioner Dial: Either Full-Blast or Off

Before you redo the wiring, check the NEW resistor.

Go here and take a look at post #16
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/a-c-only-works-on-high.536726/

 

I’m not quite sure whether it’s, shall we say, 2nd gear or 3rd gear that’s working along with 4th gear (full blast). I just know it’s not 1st.

 

You've replaced the resistor and plug 5x? There's either something else wrong or you're not crimping the splices very well imho.
Crimp tools that crimp on the other side of the pivot work best. The ones with the crimp die between the handles require a lot more effort to get a decent crimp.

 

>Before you redo the wiring, check the NEW resistor.<

After installing the resistor, I plugged in the old harness and checked to see if it worked. Worked perfectly. I then proceeded to clip off the old harness and install the new one, with less than stellar results. So unless checking it could have blown the new resistor, it’s probably my lame first attempt at crimping wires. (My crimper is a between-the-handle unit on my wire stripper, so that’s probably not helping things.)

 

Ok, I went out and attempted to start from scratch, cutting off the old butt connections and this time using the ol’ reliable wire nuts to connect the wires. But now I’m back to the AC being either full blast or off.

I’ve never used a multimeter before but tried my hand at it. I set the knob to ohms and put the probes in slot one and three on the new resistor. The multimeter displayed “OL”. (Overload?) so I stepped away from the multimeter and resisted the urge to crack open an early morning beer.

Could I have blown the new resistor in my feeble attempt at wiring the new harness?

 

OL simply means there is no continuity between those two slots. I've never had a problem with my resistor so I don't actually know if there should be.

 

I suggest you watch or read few tutorials. Knowing what you are reading on a multimeter is more than half the battle.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=how+to+use+a+multimeter

 

Is the Amazon kit made by Toyota or aftermarket? It appears to be aftermarket, in which case, i gotta ask why not just replace resistor with the OEM unit? Just asking in case im missing some reasson or another. Thanks

 

Buy the new updated resistor.
Part # and diagrams can be found in the link below.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-information-diagnostics.784008/#post-28042158

 

is this not a sticky? i mean used Tacomas should have one in the glove box at this point.

up under the dash behind the glovebox, and like $20 its fixed

 

Great, thanks! Yes, those are the numbers my dealer quoted me and i'll be going there today after work to pick them both up for $90 (resistor + wire harness/plug), and they're both in stock at my local dealer.

 

Someone here told me to keep a small bottle of electrical spray cleaner handy and use it whenever it starts happening. I have to use it about twice a year for last three years and it works. Just unplug it, spray, let dry a minute and you're good

 

For $70-80, I'd get the Toyota replacement parts and sleep well at night knowing i'm not going to find myself offroad somewhere with an electrical fire. Like what nearly happened 2 weeks ago. OEM on Amazon and, also, the dealerships are aware of these parts and stock them...I just now got home from Toyota with the stuff.

Here are the OEM units on Amazon for $70

$69 TOYOTA Genuine Updated Blower Motor Resistor & Pigtail Connector for Tacoma 2005-2017 - Parts 82141-04Q80 & 87138-04070

Amazon.com: TOYOTA Genuine Updated Blower Motor Resistor & Pigtail Connector for Tacoma 2005-2017 - Parts 82141-04Q80 & 87138-04070 : Automotive

Otherwise, my suggestion would be to keep a fire extinguisher in your truck if you plan to continue ignoring it like I tried to do since a year ago.
An $80 electrical fire from something so simple isn't worth losing my truck over, particularly with today's vehicle inventory and costs.

 

That's good to know I didn't think something like that would cause an electrical fire

 

I ignored it for a year or more while simply not using my 3rd fan speed - since that’s the only thing that caused a burning smell back then. Suddenly, 2 weeks ago it was worse than ever and could start seeing a hint of smoke in the cabin and I could smell it under the hood too. Burnt my harness clip all the way through.

 

Ok everyone with experience replacing these parts:

I installed my new resistor and harness and everything works fine EXCEPT now I get a loud electrical kind of ticking noise from under the hood whenever I use the heater on the upper dash vent position (And if the AC button is turned on).

All else is perfect. WTF is that noise I’m getting which seems to come straight from the AC compressor under the hood?? Ughhh