Alarm / Starter DYI

Anyone here DYI install an Alarm system and starter?

How difficult was it?

Where would one get the truck wiring schematic(drawings)?

I do most mods, stereo, amp, etc installs myself...Just curious I want to get a Clifford..price around 270$

I just want a good brand, basic alarm/starter

 

i do car audio.. i did mine.. took me about an hour.. i soldered every wire.. ill get ya the wiring diagram....i have the autopage rs-727 alarm/remote start..

www.autopageusa.com i think its been replaced by the rs-730

 

gimme ur email.. i ll send ya the wiring info. its from direcechs.. which is dei aka viper.. own website.

 

you may need a bypass module too.. its a model "pkall" i have it on mine and it works perfect,

 

I did mine, you need a PK all or similar module for bypass. Its pretty easy you can do it within an hour or two if you know what you are doing.

 

yes.. the pkall is the right bypass module.

 

GJolley@hotmail.com

As far as options...

Windows up/down
Doorlock auto

 

windows will need a window rollup module.

 

Looks like alrms/strs are cheaper then i expected...
What do you think of this one..... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18772_AutoPage+C3+RS-665+-1+LCD+Remote-.html

my only requirements

1. lock/unlock
2. starting distance needs to be 500 feet min
3. window option

Thanks it....nothing more...

Would this alarm work above? How do I know what kind of relays etc to buy?

 

excellent choice.. i haev installed 100's of them with 0 failures...

 

Thanks for the help...Got one ordered

 

What else did you have to order? Bypass module? Window module?

Thanks!

 

I need to get an alarm for my Travel trailer also......So I held back

1. Would a car alarm be best for travel trailer...? Some times it isn't run by AC only battery while it is in storage...Batteries have solar charger to keep them up...

2. Could I get an alarm that funtions both my truck and trailer?

3. Trailer probably only needs front door alarm of so sort.

4. As rb11701 asked....What kind of Modules do we need for the Taco's?

5. What alarm would you recommend for this, Stang88 or others?

 

I did mine with a Clifford Matrix system and the PK-ALL bypass module. I have done these before (on other vehicles) and no way I could do it in an hour or 2 on the Tacoma. If you count the time finding the correct diagrams (12v.com has charts) and finding the specific locations of where to get at the wires (mostly from the FSM at TTORA), solder every connection, and decide where to mount the brain, antenna, and PK module it took me the best part of a weekend. It was worth taking the time to do it right. If I had to do another Taco before I forgot it all I could probably cut that time in half but probably not in an hour or 2. You guys doing it in an hour or 2 must have done a lot of 'em or are magicians! YMMV....

 

Here are my notes from my alarm/remote start and stereo install that I wrote up in case I need to work on it in the futire. Hope this helps...

Alarm/remote starter install notes
Vehicle: 2009 Toyota Tacoma access cab, V-6, auto trans
　
General notes
1. REMOVE THE DRIVER'S SEAT! Really makes the job a lot easier.
2. If you remove the driver's seat be careful with the air bag connector. It is a funny little yellow thing that has 2 small loose springs and a loose plastic insert. Don't lose them. Also a good idea to disconnect battery first. Service manual says do this at least 30 seconds before messing with air bag equipment.
3. You'll probably want to undo the fuse panel bolts/nuts and pull it down for access. No big deal at all. besides the BECU connector is on back side and this makes it easy to reach.
4. Lower steering column cowl removal: there are 2 screws (1 each side) you will see from the drivers seat if you turn the steering wheel. Thanks Chris at TacomaWorld for pointing them out to me!
5. I used a micro torch to do a lot of soldering. For the big starter and ignition wires I used the direct flame. Very difficult and slow to get a good solder joint with a regular iron on these big wires. Treat 'em like you were soldering a small copper pipe and it will come out fine and go quick. But be careful! My micro torch has a couple of vent ports that send some very hot air out 90 degrees from from the shaft and this can cook nearby plastic or wires.
6. Draw out a little schematic of any relays you will be connecting and make sure it makes sense. Not that difficult but important to get them right. Write down the connections and the colors so you won't have to try to guess while you are under the dash.
Components
1. Clifford Matrix RSX3.5 2-way paging main system
2. Fortin PK-ALL immobilizer bypass module (does not require cutting ECM wires like the XK-05 and installs at ignition switch instead of at the ECM behind glove box)
3. 2 standard spdt (can also use spst) auto relays and female connectors w/wires.
　
Component locations
1. Second starter and dome supervision relays (standard auto relays listed above) - attached to a fabricated metal bracket and bolted to the inside firewall using the existing right parking brake stud and nut. Second starter relay is on top. Female relay plugs pigtails are soldered to the system and vehicle wire connex points.
2. Clifford door lock satellite relay module - attached to fabricated metal bracket and bolted to the bolt that holds the main ground junction in the driver's kick panel (near bottom). Bracket puts the relay satellite just above an existing ground junction connector and ground point.
3. Main system ground - 12g green wire with a ring terminal bolted to the same place as the door lock satellite relay module in #2. This wire will take the grounds for the brain, relays, siren, and immobilizer bypass module. I joined all these wires and tucked into the kick out of the way.
4. Immobilizer bypass module - zip tied to the top of lower end of the heater duct. This is to the right of the steering column.
5. High capacity relay XCR satellite for remote starter - zip tied to the same heater duct as #4, higher up.
6. Shock sensor - zip tied to wire bundle in lower rear drivers kick panel area.
7. Hood pin switch - driver's side front underhood in existing hole.
8. Siren - bracket bolted into existing threaded hole drivers side wheel well up near hood opening (there are 2 holes, I used rear one). I think it was a M8 or M6 bolt (don't remember pitch, prob 1.5 M8 or 1.25 M6)
9. Valet/program pushbutton switch and remote start disable toggle switch in flip open coin box in front of fuse box. Leave some slack in wires to allow pulling the box out to check truck fuses. Also installed a connector to the wires that run to the system from these switches so I'll be able to remove the coin box completely when necessary w/o having to unplug or cut wires. Note: Valet switch is "hidden" enough for me here. The thing is useless w/o the key anyway so I never saw a need to make these extra hidden. Moslyt need it for programming so I like it handy.
10. Antenna: Originally I zip tied it to a wire bundle up high under the dash. Then I moved it to the under the driver's side winshield pillar trim cover. This gives slightly better performance.
11. Brain: Zip tied to the front side of the cross brace under the dash (looks like a big steel pipe running across the truck) behind the fuse panel. Put a piece of foam on it to go against the metal.
12: Fuse holder locations: Brain fuse holder near brain. XCR relay 30A fuses near XCR. (Makes sense they would be there this is just a reminder for me in case I need to trouble shoot 5 years from now.) 3 5A fuses, 1 in each of the 3 power supply wires to brain, 2nd starter relay, and PK-all box.
　
Vehicle Wiring connections
1. Door locks - violet (lock) and green/black (unlock) in drivers kick panel at lower connector going into the door. PITA, very little slack. I used t-taps. Gang alarm system 2nd pulse unlock wire to first unlock wire (and connect to green/black) for progressive locks. If you don't want progressive locks I think you can connect into the blue and grey wires in kick (these are the inside lock switch circuit) that will fire both locks at the same time both lock and unlock. If you do this you won't need to connect the second pulse wire of your alarm system.
2. Starter #1 - green/black IGN (Note: I don't think it makes any difference which is 1 or 2. The Tacoma svc manual says black/white is #1 but green black goes directly to starter coil)
3. Starter #2 - black/white IGN
4. Ignition #1- - black/red IGN (again I don't think it really matters here which is connected to which output on your system
5. Ignition #2 - blue/yellow IGN
6. Accessory - white/green IGN
7. +12V for 2nd starter relay - white/blue IGN
　
8. +12V for brain and immobilzer bypass module - white/blue IGN(I branched and fused individually a 3-gang of smaller wires for the low current loads like brain, PK-ALL module, and the 2nd starter relayl)
9. +12V for XCR (remote starter relay assembly) satellite (2) - 1 from white/red, 1 from white/blue
10. Key sense - green/black IGNS1connector
11. Dome supervision - (NEG) blue, pin #9 in black 13-pin conector middle of the left side of the front of the fuse panel.
12. Neg door trigger - green/white, BECU 26-pin connector, pin#4, plugs into the back of the fuse panel, right side (online service manual showe inline 26 pins connector, my truck had a connector that had 2 rows of 13 pins)
13. Parking light flash - (POS) green, white 13-pin connector, left side of the front of the fuse panel (just above black 13-pin connector for Dome , see #11 above)
14. Tach - black/white at the diagnostioc data link connector below the fuse panel
15. Fortin PK-ALL connections: pins 4 and 5 at IGNS2. These are the 2 center wires. I don't recall colors but count left to right and in any case with a few pins blank you can only get wires at 4 and 5 counting from one side (left). It's just as described in Fortin connection type #7.
16. Bike alarm: I ran the wire for the alarm system's second neg trigger and the unused positive trigger into the driver's side door channel for future use to protect bicycles. I'll probably just use a tilt switch attached to the lock cable or perhaps to a truck d-ring (where cable will be locked) with a rubber band to return it to flat if somone just jiggles it to prevent ongoing alarms. I also plan to use a closed loop device that will alarm if the wire is cut. Parts are on order and I'll try to post when done.
17. Brake light inpout (POS) pin 2, blue wire, 11 pin connector top right of fuse panel
Key:
IGN: main ignition switch harness bundle under steering column
IGNS1: little switch and connector that gives you key sense right next to key cylinder
IGNS2: flat 7-pin connector at ignition switch that connects the trasponder coil to the truck's computers to operate immobilization circuits
　
Backup Camera
Pioneer ND-BC2
cam wire routed on driver's side
power supply unit zip tied drivers side under dash near console
+12v and ground - soldered to Tacoma radio wire harness
SWI-JACK steering wheel interface
Mounted left of glove box (pull glove box ot access)
+12v and ground - soldered to Tacoma radio wire harness
signal wires connected to pins 6, 7 & 8 of Tacoma swi harnes

 

i put a full alarm/remore start with the pkall modu;e in my 09 in an hour. but i alsodo this stuff for a living so i guess im a cheater.. i dont even need a diagram, ive done so many..lol

 

To bad I am not in Kansas anymore, Would get you to install mine!!!

Thanks for the right up...I will print and diagram guys... Going to install the Autopage in both my truck and trailer this weekend

 

Anyone know if the Autopage 665 has to have additional relays installed for the Tacoma.

Can I assume by this form autopage that I would not need a relay to operate the Parking lights? REMOTE START FEATURES:
5 on board relays:
1. Ignition 1
2. Ignition 2
3. Starter
4. Accessory
5. Parking Light

 

you can use either the parking light - or the parking light+

i used the parking light + on mine and just hook the white wire up to the parking light +.. no extra relays needed.

 

Does it not have onboard lock relays? If it only has low amp lock/unlock signal outputs you'll need 2 relays... or a satellite lock relay module that has them.