Alignment, Caster, Clearance, and Driving Report with Light Racing UCAs

the first shop that aligned my old tube SPCs did a traditional road crown alignment with a caster split, about 0.5deg more on the passenger side. that was a stopgap while i was seeking out a proper Toyota truck shoo and i finally got back to reality, even on both sides.

that is some kinda old school thing that we've all driven, but for a real engaged driver compensations like that are BS and it certainly is to me. i personally put my whole mod plan around the exact target alignment i have in mind, but that's me, and i am clear on the difference. after years of modifying vehicles i just find that a perfect alignment clicks it all in and brings the vehicle to life. so for me it's caster 4.5, camber 0.0, and toe 0.05ea, and those tenths and being even L & R matter to me but not for everyone. it's all about where's your value, what do you appreciate. i kinda live to drive.

 

Yep, you summed it up. I called the shop and he said it was intentional. They do a standard caster split for road crown. You can see i'm at 3.5/4.0. I'll have to judge for myself if I'm ok with it. I like to drive too, 33k on a 2019...

Thanks for the reply

 

So, just to make sure I’m understanding correctly. To maximize my clearance between the wheel and rear of the fender, I need to Max the cams to max caster, then do my final caster/camber adjustments by the UCA. Right?

Right now I have about 3 degrees caster. I think the driver side is in the A position, with the cams not far from neutral, and passenger is set to D ( I think) with the cams more adjusted than the drivers. I’ve noticed the drivers side will rub more so than the passenger. Is it because of the A setting, even though the caster comes out the same for both sides?

I wanting as much clearance as possible while staying close to the 3 degrees caster. I’m wanting to remove a small body lift and I’m afraid of clearance issues without it...but I’m a little confused as to how maxing out the cams then adjusting the UCA is that much different than maxing out the UCA then fine tuning with the cams.

 

The 'A' setting moves the upper balljoint into the rear of the wheel well.
Look at the pics i posted last page , post 1224.

To get the most rear wheel well clearance you would use a 'G' setting, but you loose caster.

Seems like the best thing to do is like SPC recomends.
Before the alignment guys touch it.
Set to 'D' with the camber at the upper ball joint set all the way out, or maybe 1/4" in.
Have the shop max caster, then fine tune the camber at the upper balljoint.

You guys that end up with with different A D G setting side to side, its most likely because the cams are siezed up.

Just seems to be however one wraps their head around it.

However, seems like alot of you guys are having good luck doing the opposite and maxing the cams out the fine tune with the SPC UCA.

 

Great thread, subbing to this one as well. Expecting my SPCs this week and hopefully install over the weekend.
Looking through most of the thread and what SPC recommends, I should start with D and ask the alignment tech for 3° caster, 0 camber and maybe 0-.3 toe?
Got 255/85/16s on now and a 3” lift.

 

SPC’s love them truck rides great no complaints.

 

Did you adjust the lca before you took her in?

 

No I didn’t touch it.

 

Thanks!

 

Forgot about this thread..

you guys running 35s what position do y’all have you ball joint in?

assuming you have max out the control arms

right now I think I’m at B. And I got 285/75/16 4.5 BS and 1.25 spacer

Going up to 35s this week.



this thing is rocket science

 

Try it and let us know.
I would think your backwards with the upper balljoint.
"A" setting moves into rear.
"G" setting moves into front.
Were is it rubbing...adjust accordingly.

I am of 4runner knowledge base...

 

Same principle.

Probably gonna rub on the cab mount. Rubbed with 285.

I’m gonna max out my castor from the lowers. I think the last alignment they moved it.

When you try to explain this control arm to to alignment techs they give you the confused puppy look

I’ll update

 

These links were helpful to me when I was learning what to do, and starting from scratch:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-report-with-light-racing-ucas.158795/page-56

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1RXnk7b2Bs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BXhlbK2op0&feature=youtu.be

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-do-an-alignment-at-home.252256/

 

I’ve been dicking with this damn control arm all day.

But after, trimming and trimming, hammering and grinding. I got the 35s (315/75r/16).



ignore the foam diaper on the the resi. Waiting for the mounts.. looks like something on that “WTF Florida thread”

Little bit on my set up, I got 16” wheels 4.5 BS with a 1.25 spacer to clear the gusseted spindle and secondary bypass to come.

so I need to max out my caster from the LCA.. just to be clear.. that’s Pushing the rear Cam out. And the front cam all the way in towards the vehicle. Like this below..

DRIVER SIDE. Passenger is opposite



rear cam ^^^^ is all the way out??



front cam ^^^(taken in front of truck) is this in the correct position? I know my tab is busted from two other alignments in the past, mongoloid techs.. so I put a clamp on the end and rotated the tab and tightened it up. Just waiting on a day where I can get off call and tear the truck up to install the new cams, hoops and bypasses.

Assuming I’m correct on the maxed out lower.. (can someone please post or direct me to a photo of what it’s suppose to look like. I am a dumb ass and need pictures.)

i set the upper to “D”. I was neck deep in the cab mount. So I went aggressive on the chop. I cut the corner off like @Ripcord did. Still rubbing before full lock. So I got to playing with all those positions of the upper ball joint.. when I went to F it rubbed more. When I B and C it rubbed less on the CMC. This is opposite of what I thought. Fak!

so it got dark. So I stopped for the day. I’ll pick up tomorrow.

since I’m only rubbing on the corner, I may bevel the corner of the twice chopped CMC.

I have not had an alignment. Trying to get set up so all I have to do is tell the tech to adjust camber from UCA (top nut) and toe.

BUT EVERY-TIME THEY IGNORE THE UCA AND ADJUST LIKE A STANDARD ALIGNMENT. Even at a off road shop and with specialty alignment and $150 beans

Guys!!! The UCA is witchcraft, please help me with this sorcery !!

 

Back to this..

I set the Upper ball joint to “F”



Driver side ^^



Passenger side ^^^

I hack up my cmc to an angle on both sides..

passenger at full steering lock.





cmc done prior to me getting truck. Welds are terrible.

Driver side full lock


Gonna do a CMC relocate. To much chopping to get it not to rub. Ron know how safe it is like this.

ride is pretty good. No rub at full lock.

I’m gonna get the wheelers bumps and spacers. What size spacer do y’al think

 

I have wheelers super bump up front no spacer. Rear super bump flip kit. Love it. Your getting after it bro

 

Alignment..

I purchased the lifetime alignment from Firestone for 200$. The tech was cool and willing to work with me on the adjustments.

my alignment cam tabs are bent to hell so I can’t really get them maxed. Still about 1/8” from maxed.

So after I left there my numbers are

D. P

camber -.3 -.4
Caster. 2.0. 2.7
Toe. .03 .02

better numbers than what I started. toe and camber were in another world.

I still need to change out the lowers to the total chaos LCAs and burn in the new cam tabs and hoops. Then add secondary bypass.. this should be good for now.

 

Got around to installing mine yesterday but have a question. Is a gap between the boot and spindle normal? I tried a few times reseating it with the same result. Pumped 10-15 squirts of grease in there as well. Here’s a pic of both sides. Drivers side is kinda blurry tho. It torqued fine and got the cotter pins back in. Thanks.

 

What do you guys think? Was floating pretty bad before? Now I'm still floating a little but not as bad. I can go back if I need to. Just went to 255/80/17 so it's my first time with 33s. Maybe I just have to get use to them wandering a bit more

 

You have UCA’s aftermarket? Camber 0 caster should be 3.0 - 4 / toe 0. With stock UCA’s you won’t achieve great caster IMO.