Alignment numbers...

So, I'm going to keep this as short as possible. I had an alignment done by our auto tech teacher at our high school since I wanted to actually watch someone do it and learn a few things. Well, he found that the front cam adjuster bolt on the drivers side was seized. When he broke it loose, the metal ears would fold over when the eccentric washer would rotate. We would bend them back, but they wouldn't hold. Long story short, he recommended a new bolt/adjuster and have the alignment specs printed at the next alignment (he was able to get caster within spec, but not toe/camber).

Anyways, took it to a local shop, clearly specified what I thought I would need, asked for a print out when finished, etc. Came back this afternoon after it was done, and there's no part replacment charged on the bill, and it clearly wasn't in place on the truck. My numbers are as follows:

Front:Left Front:Right
Camber .3 Camber -.2
Caster 2.0 Caster 2.3
Toe .02 Toe .03

Front Cross Camber: .5
Front Cross Caster: -.2
Total Toe: .05

Truck isn't pulling, and the vibration from my previously WAY off camber seems to be gone, but I see mention of being able to get camber and toe to 0, and caster to 2.8 or better. I'm within the specified range, but I'm curious as to how they did so without replacing the bolt. Are these numbers sufficient and is it possible they simply moved the alignment sensors to get the sufficient readouts?

 

Yes, it is possible. They also may have jacked up the front end and manually pushed/pulled the camber to within specs through trial and error, and with the bolt loose, of course.

Hard to say what they did for sure, but there's two possibilities for you.

 

those number may work but i would venture to guess it will not drive as nicely as it would if you got it closer to 0 and 2.4+

i am not sure on the other stuff but there are threads about the "metal ears" bending and being welded/reinforced.

 

by the way if you have a lift and you have not changed out the UCA's you will need to, to get the alignment right.

 

I know, but I don't have a lift.

My biggest concern is with tire wear. It was never pulling before (and still isn't), but my camber was WAY out of spec before, and the inside of my tires were wearing very quickly (which is what prompted me to have our tech look at it in the first place).

 

caster is what has to do with how the truck tracks down the road, camber has to do with turning and tire wear i would be more worried about camber and toe on your truck

 

Yep, I know. Most likely it's the reason the one cam adjuster was seized (i.e. not adjusted for years), because most techs see that caster is fine, so the vehicle will track well, and everything else should just be "close." All are in the specified range, but in reality, I'm not sure why they didn't purchase a new adjustment cam/bolt.

 

If your at stock height and using stock tires, the caster should be set around 2.1. This moves up to 2.4 and 2.8 depending on how much larger your tires are from stock. If you search on the forum, you should be able to find a thread that defines the 2.1-2.8 range much better than I can.

I have stock suspension and tires, but have a set of 5100s set at .85 lift. I have my caster set at 2.1/2.3, toe at 0.04/0.05, and camber at .1/.1 and it drives much better then whatever the dealer set it at after the rear TSB was done (caster was around 1.5, camber was 0.8, and toe was .1, note that these were all in the good range, and they'd normally stop right there, but I requested my alignment to be set to my specs, and they did).