Alignment specs for 2” lift?

I'm at 3" and 33s

 

Wow 4 degrees caster. No rubbing? One can have too much caster. With a UCA it changes caster from the top by drawing the UBJ back towards the firewall creating positive caster. From the factory, the eccentrics in the LCA push the LCA (and LBJ) forward creating positive caster. In my experience with the AM UCAs ( I had SPC Light Racing on my runner) we would set the factory max spec (3.5) and then just use the UCA's camber adjustment to dial in camber. Of course if you had bigger tires and more room in front of the tire with a AM bumper you might have to increase caster so you wouldn't rub on the cabin side. But I'll bet that thing still rides great. That is a model alignment especially with bigger tires.

 

I went from 16X8 0 offset to 17X9 -12 I was rubbing a little so they pushed the wheels forward. I already did the CMC and so far so good. Rides pretty good, I went from a 10 ply to an Lt and it's waaaaaaaaay softer now

 

i just got my jbas in! Will have them installed Monday, then off to firestone to see if they'll do it or give me a refund!

 

Nice.

 

Here is mine. I am running JBAs with a 3" lift and 295/75 16 tires. I'm not rubbing anywhere on my front end, no cmc has been done. I off-road and literally have no contact under my fender. Too much wasted cutting is done on this site, get the correct equipment and a good alignment and no worries should be needed.

 

Specifically what rims and tires do you have? If you know BS or Offset and rim diameter that would be great.

 

I am running fN FX Pros in 16x8, zero offset. Mind you, all Tacomas have suttle differences but, it can be accomplished without cutting on a new truck.

 

I don't mean to hijack this thread,but I think I have alignment issues with my 2020 OR,purchased mid November.Totally stock.At highway speeds you gotta be correcting the steering all the time to maintain a straight line,even worse if there is a slight variance in the road surface or a gust of wind throws you of your line.I had it back to the dealer in late dec and had the alignment checked,was told the toe was slightly off and adjusted.I wasn't given a printout, it may have helped very slightly.I replaced the original Goodyear kevlars with a set of Michelin X-ice and thought that helped as well,but I'm thinking i'm having the placebo effect.A couple of weeks ago I took it to an indy shop and was told the toe was out again and adjusted.Probably a variance in alignment machines.I got a printout this time.Sorry I cant post it here,but my castor values are Left 1.73 and Right 1.97.Do you think these values are causing my issues.Are the stock control arms adjustable for castor?I drive cars for a few dealerships,dealer trades etc...and have never experienced this on other new vehicles...But I did buy a used low mileage 2013 Mustang convertible in 2018 and it had similar road manners...a new set of tires and an alignment(toe was out) cured it.Thanks for any input or info

 

Not sure what spec values are for 3rd gens, but I'd have them get your left/right caster values symmetric and bump them up. Are your camber and toe values asymmetric as well? Sounds like you have some lazy techs performing your alignment (especially if you've brought the truck to them informing them the truck seems out of alignment).

 

Always try to get a printout. Chance are your're alignment is still saved on their computer if it's a more modern machine. Caster should be OK with those #s especially stock. Caster and camber are simultaneously adjusted with the eccentrics (cambolts) in the lower control arms.

 

Just some added info for my above post...Toe is .04 left and .04 right.Camber is -0.01 left and 0.67 right.

 

Toe is fine. Like to see a little less cross-camber. With those readings it may pull a little right and with road crown may be even more noticeable

 

TacoSupremo19. Thanks for your attention and input. It doesn't seem to pull one way or another.It just seems I need to be correcting back and forth.There is no straight line stability.I'm going back to the dealer later this week and have a sit down with them.See if they will put it on the lift again and possibly jack up the castor #s a bit.

 

lots of good info in here!

Going to be installing 5100’s and ome 885’s on my 2010. Will also be installing total chaos Uca’s.
alignment should be pretty much as follows right? based off the info i have got from a few threads and posts
0° toe
0° camber
2.5°ish caster or as close to 3 as can get it
or should i aim for 2.5 caster and not as close to 3 as they can get it?

want it aligned right and so i want to make sure i tell them the proper specs i need it aligned to

 

I think the factory spec for caster is 2.5. If you're around there you should be fine. The only time you might need a little more caster is to clear larger tires, specifically to minimize or eliminate rubbing on the cabin side of the wheel well.

 

hi guys, new to the forum. this thread was very informative as i just purchased some uniball icon upc's today and was wondering the proper specs needed since i have an eibach lift kit and 285/75/16's im hoping it will solve my rubbing issue on the oem upcs

 

Thoughts on my alignment I just got done. 2” lift on Icon Coilovers with tubular delta joint UCAs

 

I don't know how much caster is built into the UCAs, but if your tire setup is clearing then those numbers look good!

 

I am not sure either exactly how much is built in either.

But my tires don’t rub. And they didn’t rub before the lift either