alignment tech/ help thread

Are the Built Rights adjustable ?

 

No the Built Rights are uni-balls. What is the advantage of an adjustable UCA? Also are there 2 positions for the adjustment in the LR, or are they "infinetely" adjustable inside of the slot? Still leaning toward the LR simply because of price.

 

There is 7 settings for caster , camber is adjusted at the top via a slide

http://www.spcalignment.net/instructions/25470-INS_WEB.pdf

 

Quick off subject question, I lifted my truck 3" on 265/70-16's then got my front end aligned with no issues, about two weeks ago I bought some bfg km2's in a 255/85-16, should I have my front end aligned again since I'm on a taller tire now?

 

As far as I know, you do not need an alignment if you only change tires. The geometry should be the same.

 

Not off topic man. AFAIK the title is alignment tech/help thread. LOL

But no, the only reason you'd need an alignment after changing tires is if you saw funny wear and didn't want to ruin your new tires!

 

You can set the settings how you want. Makes it helpful to be able to play with alignment specs to get a tire to rub less or make it not rub at all. Also if you want to fine tune your alignment it could help.

The built rights probably just add 2* of caster into the system. Which is helpful when it comes to getting alignment back into spec.

You'll have more travel out of the UCA but not by much, not enough to worry about it, especially without aftermarket coil overs.

Either are strong enough for your needs, and hopefully SPC has their bushings worked out but I haven't tried a new set so I dunno.

If you get the uniballs and they squeak I'd suggest a dry moly spray lube.

With the ball joints you won't need to worry about that.

 

Thanks, Now to make things even more confusing, what about the Camburg Ball Joint UCAs... I have a almost new set of factory ball joints in my parts bin as a backup before I lifted, and they are also about $400, heard Camburg might give the guys at TTORA a discount on that too. I also have access to a press.

This decision is hard.

 

I couldn't tell ya much about camburg arms, sorry man. I will say factory ball joints don't have the range of motion that SPC's do.

 

I just got my LR uca installed. Previously my alignment numbers were : toe 0, camber 0, and caster 1.4. After install they are : toe 0, camber -.5, and caster is 2.4. Of course I requested 0 for camber and my alignment tech said that -.5 is right in the middle of tacomas camber range. Will running a -.5 camber effect outer tire wear?

 

Probably not but that seems like a lame response.

 

I'm taking it back tomorrow. I'm not happy with how it drives. I'm going to request 0* camber, just like the first time. I also noticed that my driver side ball joint is at the -1* position and my passenger ball joint is at the neutral position. Truck also seems to be pulling to the left a little bit.

 

Least they did well on the toe. You shouldn't really have any noticeable pull with that. Try driving on the other side of the crown and see what happens, and if it's still pulling then swap front tires rear and make sure your rear axle is located properly, no busted center pins for example.

 

Are they aware they can adjust camber at the top of the UCA ?

 

How does the caster look? Would the ball joints not being in the same position cause anything? On the rear, do my toe or camber numbers look high?

 

I walked them through everything so I would say yes but you never know. Looking at the upper nut it looks like they placed it in the middle so I know I have some movement in it.

 

Truck is going back for alignment #2 tomorrow. I will report back once I get it back. Let's hope they get it right.

 

Hey guys great thread. My question is this. My 12 DCSB sr5 is stock height. I went from 245's to 265's and seem to have alot of bump steer [even with stock tires] meaning steering wheel kicks back and forth on cracks and bumps in road.Also really bad off road. Should I have alignment checked and at stock height what is a good caster # to be set at. Seems like maybe from what ive read I may need more positive caster. Thanks for any help.

 

I got my truck back yesterday. Toe is 0, camber is 0, and caster is 2.2. They had to reposition the ball joint to the -1* position. Then to find out they told me they could only get 2.2 caster because my lca cam bolts were seized up. They had to do all of the adjusting with the uca.