allenfab's 95 Tacoma build

Booster doesn't have anything to do with whether you have ABS or not.

Just checked and you can get them on rockauto for $115 for a Cardone reman unit. $134 for an ACDelco reman.

 

What's the difference in the 95-00 and the 01-04 boosters? I was under the impression that they were all dual diaphragm (my 95 is)

 

From what I've heard the 01-04 is 13/16" while the 95-00 are something bigger. I can't find the info as it's buried in the "What have you done today..." thread

Edit: found it, it's around this post

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...st-gen-edition.138573/page-5847#post-14447549

 

So it's not just the booster I'd need, but the MC too. That's kind of why I was thinking that not having ABS might be an issue. It doesn't go through that ABS control manifold/valve unit and I was thinking that thing might electrically boost up the pressure a bit, thus the smaller MC. I know my 3rd Gen T4R stops wicked hard with a very sensitive pedal (particularly on cold starts), but it has the electrically boosted ABS system like the post-face lifted 2nd Gen Tacos have.

 

@Taco No Baka, higher pressure isn't going to help you. In fact, you're not going to get any increase in pressure unless you were going from a single diaphragm booster to a dual... which from what I have read is only going to give you a ~50psi gain, which at the pressures in which the brakes operate, would be about a 5% increase... so the gains would be negligible. Plus, your booster is already a dual diaphragm... think of a booster as just a mechanism to give you more leverage on the MC

If you want better brakes, without actually going bigger with the calipers and rotors, your only real choice is to upgrade to a little better pads, rear proportioning valve, and to keep your rear drums adjusted properly. The only way to actually get your truck to stop better other than that is to put bigger rotors and calipers on it, and upgrade the master cylinder appropriately to match and to push more VOLUME to those larger calipers. Those larger pistons require more fluid from the master which is why people go to a bigger bore MC. Going to a bigger bore MC on stock brakes is not what you are looking for.

 

I get what you're saying. There is probably another way to go though and it would require a bigger MC. I could do the Mustang rear caliper, Mitsubishi rotor rear disc brake mod, which would also necessitate the manual proportioning valve as well.

I dunno, I guess I'll see how sketchy it feels when the 36s are on the truck. How did the D44 discs work with your 35s? Maybe I can figure out a D44 caliper mod that will work better than the 4 piston Toy calipers and not have to go to a bigger wheel.

 

With the 44, I'd rate the brakes at 7 out of 10 when I would adjust the rear drums, but after just one wheeling trip, they would be out of adjustment already and the brakes would work ok at best..... I'd say about 5 out of 10 which is unsatisfactory imo

 

FWIW I run the stock mini brake calipers and it doesn't feel sketchy at all. Did a full rebuild of the rear drums with new oem drums, shoes, and all the hardware and that made a noticable difference. The front is just some slotted rotors and oem pads. I'm on 36s atm but plan on going up in size after I finish my 3rz swap.

Unless you're towing something, I don't see a point in upgrading the stock brakes. They work great if they are maintained. I know a guy that runs 42" iroks and a guy that runs 40" razrs, both on OEM mini truck brakes

 

Ummm...but you didn't have your E-brake hooked up...which is how the rear brakes self-adjust.

Rgr that. I was just having rear brake issues for a long time. Did all my braking with the front and wore down the front set of tires pretty quick. Then I figured out it was that stupid LSPV and safety wired the sensing arm to the bottom of the bed. The truck braked a lot better after that, but it still doesn't brake with the same authority as my T4R and that's with the T4R currently on stupid heavy 33s and the Taco on little 32s. But then the T4R has 16" wheels and is probably running bigger front rotors. I hadn't though of that until now.

 

I know the limited 4runners have huge rotors, I don't know if the sr5 runner have the same as the tacoma or not.

I will say also that, if you haven't already, a full brake fluid flush goes a long way. Also, I got some high carbon steel rotors and ceramic pads for my Tacoma and liked them better than OEM just based on feel and less fade after driving in the mountains. Not sure if they're actually better or not though

 

I have an ongoing fluid flush. Seems like every time I turn around I'm doing something that requires a brake system bleed. The fluid in my reservoir still looks like pale beer, so I'm good there.

Guess I could try putting one of my 15" wheels on the T4R and see if it clears. If so I should be good to do the Tundra brake mod. I'm just going to feel it out with what I have now when I put the 36s on it. If it's good then I won't have to do anything except enjoy being the big dog for a change, lol.

 

Correct, but I have read that they self-adjust while braking normally when in reverse, but I don't know if there is really any truth to that. Whenever I was going in reverse, I would always just throw it in first and start to let off on the clutch when still rolling slowly backwards, I never used the brake in reverse

 

^You have far more patience to type that I do and you're dead nuts correct.

Modern brakes are way over-engineered/spec'ed for stock weight and wheel/tire weight...Lawyers and such. So you can push them quite a bit above and beyond stock intentions. Hell, I run FJ60/v6 mini truck rotors on the front of my truck and they lock up fine in a panic stop.

 

That was a different type of self-adjuster I think. My 1970 Buick (4 wheel drums) had to be self-adjusted like that. Toyota drums work off the e-brake only, I'm almost positive. I have been known to be wrong though.

Sorry for your thread.

 

Emergency brakes are for street queens change my mind. @allenfab how long before the rear re-gear comes?

 

I haven't had an e brake for years. Educate me on what those are plz

 

It's gotta be my aviation background; redundancy, redundancy, redundancy. It wigs me out that Natty is electrically shifted and throttle by wire. Those push button start cars with throttle by wire REALLY wig me out. I mean what do you do if the throttle sticks open?

 

Hopefully within the next couple months. I really need these 35s to sell

 

Are they 16’s or 17’s?

 

from what I gather its for a emergency. Ive removed all that from my axle just more stuff to mess with.