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Alpine KTP-445U questions

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by packrobottom, Jul 3, 2014.

  1. Jul 3, 2014 at 11:49 AM
    #1
    packrobottom

    packrobottom [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Just got 2014 double cab.

    I'm going to order some polk 6.5 components and mounting brackets for the front. (leaving rear speakers as is for now)
    and also the Alpine KTP-445U to power them while keeping the stock entune plus head unit.

    will I need anything else to keep stock wiring and connect the kip-445u to the stock head unit and speakers without cutting the factory wiring to avoid warranty issues.

    Thanks
     
  2. Jul 3, 2014 at 12:59 PM
    #2
    Aw9d

    Aw9d That one guy

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    Do you have the JBL system? All you need is an adapter for the stock system or the JBL. JBL is about $100.. Stock is $8.
     
  3. Jul 3, 2014 at 1:46 PM
    #3
    packrobottom

    packrobottom [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have the stock non jbl entune plus.

    which adapter do I need?
     
  4. Jul 5, 2014 at 6:30 AM
    #4
    weendoggy

    weendoggy Well-Known Member

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  5. Jul 5, 2014 at 8:56 AM
    #5
    PETEREDGE

    PETEREDGE Well-Known Member

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    I have the KTPU hooked up to Pioneer 6x9's in front and Pioneer 6.5's in back sounds great,the little amp has great power.I recently just upgraded to a 2014 entune plus/non jbl in my 2012 and sounds even better now.
     
  6. Jul 6, 2014 at 6:26 AM
    #6
    packrobottom

    packrobottom [OP] Well-Known Member

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    which wiring adapter(s) did you use to avoid cutting factor wires
     
  7. Jul 6, 2014 at 6:34 AM
    #7
    PETEREDGE

    PETEREDGE Well-Known Member

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    I just tapped into the harness and soldered the connections was really easy to hook up.I promise your speakers will come to life.
     
  8. Jul 6, 2014 at 5:59 PM
    #8
    weendoggy

    weendoggy Well-Known Member

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    A 71-1761 for the radio and 70-1761 for the harness.
     
  9. Jul 7, 2014 at 11:59 AM
    #9
    packrobottom

    packrobottom [OP] Well-Known Member

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    thx so much
     
  10. Jul 7, 2014 at 2:54 PM
    #10
    bubagump74

    bubagump74 SkiFreak

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    If you put components speakers with a cross over you can use the speaker wires to power the croos over but you will need to leave the connector for the old tweeters plugged in to the harness to get the signal.
    The ktp-445u is a great little amp it really brings the pwr up.You can use one of the cigarette lighter ports to power it up,make sure you hook up the remote wire to the amp.It will fit nicely above the stock HU in the dash with some tie wrap or sticky shit.Good luck
     
  11. Jul 8, 2014 at 4:05 AM
    #11
    packrobottom

    packrobottom [OP] Well-Known Member

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    is is possible you could post a rudimentary diagram of what you are talking about?
     
  12. Jul 8, 2014 at 8:01 AM
    #12
    bubagump74

    bubagump74 SkiFreak

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    First find wire color code of your head unit harness,that way you will know locations and polarity for your speakers.You will need to find the remote wire out of the head unit, this one is to control pwr to the amp when you turn the ignition off.then use the diagram that came with the amp and splice away!
    you better use nice 18 gauge splice connector (red) for a quality job.
    Now you can use one of the cigarette lighter wires to connect pwr to the amp.its location is practical and its got its own fuse.(or you can run a wire from the batt+a fuse.)
    on the unit set the gain to 60% and set the switches according to instructions depending(don't bridge them if you have less then 4 speakers).
    once all hooked up test it before you put it all back in the dash.the amp will fit nicely above the HU with some tie wrap or sticky foam.
    for your door speakers you need spacers and an harness adapter if you don't want to cut any wires in the door.
    Go for it

    Nothing to it :D
     
  13. Jul 8, 2014 at 8:13 AM
    #13
    bubagump74

    bubagump74 SkiFreak

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  14. Jul 9, 2014 at 4:50 PM
    #14
    weendoggy

    weendoggy Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't worry about the crossover wiring. Toyota already did that to the fronts. Just wire your new speakers just the way they come out. I have a detailed .pdf found here http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/317073-2014-access-cab-sub-options.html see post #4, and I would use this wire http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_24134_EFX-FS9W-25FT-by-Scosche.html to run your amp to/from the stock HU. Believe me, I just did this and it's the only way to fly. My install is here http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/328388-2014-access-cab-door-speakers.html post #14
     
  15. Jul 9, 2014 at 7:01 PM
    #15
    packrobottom

    packrobottom [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Your saying don't install the crossovers that come with my polks, and just hook up the tweeter and woofer to the existing wires? I would love to do that as it will take me 2 min but that doesn't seem right
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2014
  16. Jul 10, 2014 at 6:46 AM
    #16
    weendoggy

    weendoggy Well-Known Member

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    This is what I found out in my AC with no rear speakers (they are in the roof). Toyota does a crossover in the tweeter on the front doors. I put new Focal speakers in my front doors and wired them as I thought, + to +, - to -, or at least I thought that by tracing the wiring and speaker connections. They sounded like crap!

    After posting my findings, and looking at the color code chart, I did the speaker test to see what side was + and - so I could get the wiring correct. I changed the polarity on my tweeters and the sound was so much better. You could really start to hear the trebble side.

    Another member said when installing tweeters close to the main speaker, manufacturers suggest the use of the crossover, so I guess Toyota did that for us. I think if you were going to wire your speakers out of the box in a new installation, I would use the crossover to obtain the results. However, if your current truck wiring is like mine (I have a 2014) I think you can just wire them in as I did (keeping your stock HU) and be done with it. I posted this on one of the threads above to help others. I'm sure you won't be disappointed. I made note of the speaker check with the battery and my findings so you should be able to do it just fine.

    I will also say that putting the amp (even a mini) above your HU will be a chore along with putting your wiring and plugs back in that space. That's why I chose under my front seat. You don't lose any room and it's much easier to install and if you need to make a change, no big deal, just use the wiring I suggested, it'll make your life easier. The only thing I wish the mini amps had was a rheostat tuner for the gain. It's not a big deal and I chose what sounds good to me. At lower levels, the stock unit now sounds great and when you "pump the jam" I need ear plugs. :)

    My rears are actually in the headliner so the DC may not have these due to your rear doors. If that's the case, I would wire the fronts just as I did and leave your rears wired as they come.

    I also used a Clarion mini amp but the two are about the same. I didn't need to run the jumper for more power, stock is plenty.

    Be sure to wire the "5th" wire in your rear speaker plug at the HU. Just pay attention to where it is and connect it to the chassis wiring when you use the adapter. The rear speaker adapter only has four wires but you can rob one unused wire/connector from the front/main power connectors and install them in the rear one and make your connections. If you don't you'll lose the fade.

    Good luck.
     
  17. Jul 10, 2014 at 7:26 AM
    #17
    packrobottom

    packrobottom [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ok so based on what you are saying I can just plug the new woofers in with the adapters I have ,and then for the tweeters just unsolder - + the 2 leads on both tweeters and re solder to new tweeters!
     
  18. Jul 10, 2014 at 8:32 AM
    #18
    weendoggy

    weendoggy Well-Known Member

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    Too simple to be true, but it is. :)
     
  19. Jul 10, 2014 at 4:28 PM
    #19
    packrobottom

    packrobottom [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Actually it's not just did a bunch of research that could damage your tweeter. The best way I came up with is to cut the tweeter harness right after the 4 wires that split to two, then shrink wrap/seal ends and leave it plugged in.

    Then use an adapter on the factory woofer plug and run that to the crossover ins. Then tweeter out and woofer out from crossover. no factory wiring cut.

    I used industrial Velcro to stick cross over to door.

    Pics to follow
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2014
  20. Jul 11, 2014 at 8:16 PM
    #20
    weendoggy

    weendoggy Well-Known Member

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    That may work as well. If you follow the Toyota wiring for the speaker and tweeter, you'll see they are phased as I said. If you connect yours to the +/- directly and come through your crossover, you're probably doing the same thing. See posts #12 - #20 here http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/au...-converter-help-needed-harness-wires-tap.html
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2014

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