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Alternator Replacement

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by KCi238, Mar 21, 2018.

  1. Mar 21, 2018 at 11:23 AM
    #1
    KCi238

    KCi238 [OP] AKA K-Flo the YouTuber

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    Hello Everyone,

    I recently replaced the alternator on my TRD Sport Tacoma. I was searching through youtube and a few forums but didn't find a good thorough guide, so I made one up!

    I hope this helps someone out!

    -Karl

    https://youtu.be/Q9iIucCk0So
     
  2. Mar 21, 2018 at 3:34 PM
    #2
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    Great DIY! Thanks for posting!
     
  3. Mar 21, 2018 at 8:02 PM
    #3
    burlyb

    burlyb Member

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    Excellent! Great editing and descriptions.
     
  4. Mar 22, 2018 at 5:39 AM
    #4
    nasaengr

    nasaengr Well-Known Member

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    Great write up. Only one correction; the wire that is connected on the alternator with the protective cap is positive 12v that goes directly to the battery.
     
  5. Mar 22, 2018 at 6:14 AM
    #5
    Stryker420

    Stryker420 Well-Known Member

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    At what mileage did you need to replace?
     
  6. Mar 22, 2018 at 9:24 AM
    #6
    M192

    M192 Well-Known Member

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    I replaced my alternator last september it had 198000 on it.
     
    R0dzilla75 and TheDevilYouLove like this.
  7. Mar 22, 2018 at 10:16 PM
    #7
    Chuy

    Chuy Well-Known Member

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    2.5 inch lift; 5100's front; OME rear; Air Lift; dual batteries; Bestop bed cover; Nfab nerf steps; EBC rotors; Threadwright Claw MT tires; hood scoop LED light install.
    It can go directly to the battery, if fused properly. Otherwise, OEM routing is alt to the fuse box where it is fused then it goes to the battery.

    Edit: after viewing the video, I see that you meant to correct the OP in that he misidentified the alt lead cable as a ground cable. It is a positive cable.

    To OP: Torque on the alt bolts is 43lbs, not 16; the alt nut for the positive wire is 9.8 ft lbs. There is a good thread here for the alt installation. A good auto diy video should, imo, include torque specs for all bolts/nuts re-installed.

    I replaced my alt last year and I didnt have to remove the bottom tray. But, it is a good idea to check play in the idler pulley bearings while you are down there.

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-change-the-alternator-on-a-2nd-gen-tacoma.175116/
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2018
  8. Mar 23, 2018 at 7:41 AM
    #8
    Pork Chopper

    Pork Chopper Well-Known Member

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    Awesome write up! Short video that gets to the point!

    I'm at 196k so I know mine is coming up. I check the voltage routinely and it's still putting out 14.2 :fingerscrossed:
     
    TheDevilYouLove and M192 like this.
  9. Jun 11, 2018 at 10:00 PM
    #9
    DaVikes

    DaVikes Well-Known Member

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    Karl, thanks for taking the time to put together the video. It was very helpful. Judging by the number of stores that have Tacoma alternators in stock, they aren't lasting all that long. Mine failed at 95,000. At least it failed when it was parked next to my house.

    There seem to be some differences through the years on where things are mounted. So for those who have '11's, here's what I did. I left the fan shroud and fan in place. Pulled the bottom "skid plate" to get at the tensioner and the bottom bolt on the alternator. I used a small screwdriver to pin the tensioner. I took the alternator out through the gap between the fender and frame. That was pretty easy, just remember to turn the wheels all the way left when you park it. The bracket that is bolted to the alternator was easier to access from the gap than from above. There was no way the alternator would come straight up on mine. Maybe if the fan shroud were removed it would.

    The most frustrating part was trying to get the little grey plastic cover off the alternator. The one that covers the nut for the positive lead. I broke mine. The green terminal does have a release lever that must be squeezed to get it off. Not too hard. Several small bungees came in handy to hold wiring back out off the way. The other handy thing to have are the little plastic fasteners that hold the flexible fender liner in place. (They break.) I got a kit from Amazon a couple years ago. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V05LSZU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Also, for those who watched the video and are wondering, there are no nuts on the long bolts that mount the alternator.

    I was surprised that it failed at 95k. In hindsight, it had been charging at 13.7-13.9v which is a little low. Now it's at 14.1-14.2v. Also surprising is that my scan gauge did not pick up any codes at all, even though the battery light was on, and the alternator was bad.

    Hope this helps someone someday.

    (The link for scan gauge is not the same scan gauge that I have. I didn't put the link in. Either TW put it in, or Amazon did. Weird.)
     
    Biscuits likes this.
  10. Jun 12, 2018 at 11:16 AM
    #10
    hemitruk

    hemitruk Old man , young boi truk

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    My 2010 with 66k miles went out Sat. Heard loud whinning .Thought was power steering .Pulled on side to check fluid was good . Went to start noticed bat weak .Went napa to buy battery (was 4 years old) tried starting was dead . Replaced battery and noticed not charging so picked up and replaced alternator .
    Battery light did not come on so was kind of surprised happened so fast . And at 66k miles...:facepalm:
     
  11. Jun 14, 2018 at 7:52 AM
    #11
    tigerag97

    tigerag97 Member

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    I replaced my alternator June it had 272000 on it. Great post! Thanks
     
  12. Jun 14, 2018 at 7:59 AM
    #12
    knottyrope

    knottyrope Well-Known Member

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    I like the tensioner part where the drill bit is stuck in there
     
  13. Jun 14, 2018 at 9:14 AM
    #13
    M192

    M192 Well-Known Member

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    Hmmm I always forget about this. I just put the belt on till I get to the tensioner then grab it with a wrench.
     
  14. Sep 20, 2018 at 1:07 PM
    #14
    BenSkiv

    BenSkiv Well-Known Member

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    Did anyone just use the Napa alternators or did you buy oem ones? Im going to replace mine, and I’ve figured out it’s the non tow package, could I install a 130a without upgrading wiring or fuses?
     
  15. Aug 19, 2019 at 5:09 AM
    #15
    SilverSurfer06

    SilverSurfer06 If it fly's, It dies

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    I too had mine just go out battery isn’t very old at all,I never saw a battery light come on. The alternator started whining two days later truck wouldn’t start.:confused::confused::confused:
     
  16. Aug 19, 2019 at 5:30 AM
    #16
    TheDevilYouLove

    TheDevilYouLove You can’t polish a turd, but you can polish a TRD

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    One of the best videos I've seen, very efficient. I love how the filming was on a fast speed, very respectful of the viewer's time!
     
  17. Aug 19, 2019 at 10:46 AM
    #17
    JohnT43

    JohnT43 Well-Known Member

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    Just changed my alternator out. Good video. You might also check the bearings on the pulleys. You now have access to the tensioner bracket when the alternator is out, you only have one item to drop to install it.
     
  18. Aug 19, 2019 at 11:08 AM
    #18
    Lester Lugnut

    Lester Lugnut Well-Known Member

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    I've never purchased a NAPA alt. so I can't say one way or another. I will say whatever you do, DO NOT ever buy alternators or starters from Auto Zone.

    This may not work for people with one vehicle, but I always pull either starter or alt. when dead and take to a local electric rebuilder I've been using for 40+ years.
     
  19. Oct 15, 2019 at 12:33 PM
    #19
    TheDevilYouLove

    TheDevilYouLove You can’t polish a turd, but you can polish a TRD

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    I changed my alternator, your video was a big help!
     
  20. Oct 15, 2019 at 12:50 PM
    #20
    Fullboogie

    Fullboogie Well-Known Member

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    While you have the alternator out it would be a good time to replace the VVT filters. The driver's side one requires the alternator to be moved aside.
     

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