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Alternator went out buy oem or better?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by bluetaco80, May 21, 2012.

  1. May 21, 2012 at 9:40 AM
    #1
    bluetaco80

    bluetaco80 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys my alternator went out im pretty sure because I have to jump start my truck everytime I turn it off and pretty sure its not my battery because I just got it in march and its the big yellow top but gonna take both to get checked out, anyway just wondering anybody that has a upgraded alternator suggest that or should I just buy the regular 130 amp one for my truck because I have so much stuff wired to my battery im wondering if will just where out again
     
  2. May 21, 2012 at 12:45 PM
    #2
    AlaskanTaco

    AlaskanTaco Well-Known Member

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    Ummm.... If it was your alternator, and it would die going down the road. Since it is only dying after it is turned off, and sounds like a battery to me. It may have something staying on after shut down
     
  3. May 21, 2012 at 1:02 PM
    #3
    jsmarine

    jsmarine Well-Known Member

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    Yep, you would run down your batteries pretty quick without an alternator, and it would die just driving down the road.

    It might be an accessory running down your battery after you turn off your truck.
     
  4. May 21, 2012 at 1:06 PM
    #4
    XXXX

    XXXX Well-Known Member

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    how to check it

    1) turn truck on
    2) measure amps from battery terminals
    3) write down number

    3) turn truck off
    4) measure amps from battery terminals
    5) write down number

    if #5 is more then #3 your alt is FUBAR
     
  5. May 21, 2012 at 1:14 PM
    #5
    jamesinkeys

    jamesinkeys Well-Known Member

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    Bought a red top....did not last long. Cant let the optima batteries just sit for a month or two, will not take a charge. Back to sears for a die hard. Optima batteries are made in Mexico.
     
  6. May 21, 2012 at 1:28 PM
    #6
    pickle

    pickle UAW made TEAMSTER driven

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    if you determine alternator is bad, take it off and have an automotive electrical repair shop re-build it. toyota has best electrical components to be found. dont give auto-parts house your Denso for some lifetime warranty alternator that will never put out enough voltage to run all accessories in your truck.If you must buy another alternator, get a new or re-built one from Toyota dealership only... i went through this in early 90's with a starter on my 86' toy truck, 20 bucks for new brushes and never had a problem again... DONT GIVE AWAY YOUR DENSO ELECTRONICS< RE-BUILD THEM
     
  7. May 21, 2012 at 1:38 PM
    #7
    Maticuno

    Maticuno Resident Pine Swine

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    Sounds like the battery or the connections. Make sure the terminals are tight and corrosion free. If it is the battery, think about getting another brand. Since it looks like you off-road pretty hard, look for an AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery that will fit. Try brands like Odyssey or Trojan.
     
  8. May 21, 2012 at 2:03 PM
    #8
    Blackcat10

    Blackcat10 Well-Known Member

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    Alternator should put out 14 to 15 volts. Volt meter on battery terminals at about 2000 rpm. Worked for Toyota for almost 20 years. Non better than Denso. New alternator from dealer is about $500. They also carry a Denso remanufactured for around $250. Or you can take a chance with a shop rebuilding your alternator and will probably cost about the same as Reman from dealer.
     
  9. May 21, 2012 at 2:04 PM
    #9
    bluetaco80

    bluetaco80 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys here are other symtoms though l can hear it running rough and when im working on my truck and disconnect the battery and reconnect it, it runs rough and shakes for a while like its gonna stall out and this was before the new battery so I thought it was the battery goin to shit so I got a new one but same symtoms still but a lil better for like a month then have to get jumped everytime I turn off my truck and when I get it jumped I have to keep the rpms up or ill stall out..
     
  10. May 21, 2012 at 2:23 PM
    #10
    Maticuno

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    Is the check engine light on?
     
  11. May 21, 2012 at 2:29 PM
    #11
    lj973gm

    lj973gm Sold it, dont miss it yet.

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    Just buy a alternator with a lifetime warranty.

    I would suspect the optima since I never had luck with mine and do not recommend them anymore.

    The test XXXX wrote will let you know if you have a bad alternator or battery you can also check voltage during that step as well, it should increase while running.
     
  12. May 21, 2012 at 2:36 PM
    #12
    bluetaco80

    bluetaco80 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes that also
     
  13. May 21, 2012 at 2:38 PM
    #13
    Maticuno

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    Pull the code to see what the problem is. I'm guessing that has something to do with the rough idle.
     
  14. May 21, 2012 at 2:39 PM
    #14
    bluetaco80

    bluetaco80 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    But I had these problems before I put the optima in
     
  15. May 21, 2012 at 2:42 PM
    #15
    MountainEarth

    MountainEarth Well-Known Member

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    Yeah buy an Ultragauge for 70 bucks and pull your own codes. Or get down to an Autozone ... don't they do it for free?
     
  16. May 21, 2012 at 2:43 PM
    #16
    bluetaco80

    bluetaco80 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Its seems like the rough idle is from not enough power because all the dash lights and radio goes really dim and engine idles rough
     
  17. May 21, 2012 at 2:44 PM
    #17
    bluetaco80

    bluetaco80 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yea thats what ima do
     
  18. May 21, 2012 at 2:51 PM
    #18
    babytruck

    babytruck Babytruck, babytruck...I've got a babytruck :)

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    Not in California. I've tried. Something to do with Smog tests and people just clearing codes enough to pass before the code pops back up.
     
  19. May 21, 2012 at 5:07 PM
    #19
    Maticuno

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  20. May 22, 2012 at 11:51 PM
    #20
    billygoat

    billygoat Well-Known Member

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    If it runs rough when you disconnect the battery then the problem is your alternator. I was actually going to suggest trying this. The reason your truck does not die when driving is because the alternator puts out more power at higher rpms which charges the battery enough to maintain an idle, but not necessarily enough to start the engine. As for factory or aftermarket, 130amps is pretty decent and the oem unit is high quality as already mentioned.
     
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