AlumEscape Expo Build

Is the link to the bearings on Amazon at the bottom of the page the ones you used for the drawer slide? Any advice doing it over again? I'm going this route soon. Thanx.

 

Not sure how Amazon does it's voodoo but I think so, looks like the ones I used

608-2RS Skateboard Bearing, 8x22x7, Sealed (Pack of 100)

here.

If I were to do it again I'd look for higher quality plywood, marine with thinner plys. I think it would have let my trim down some weight where I doubled some parts up like the bed side of the drawer slides where I used two layers of 1/2" ply. That said, it's rock solid.

Make a jig and take your time when drilling the holes to mount the bearings. The better they end up aligned the better the setup will work.

Make sure to built in a way that you can get it in and out. Mine is about as big as I could make it and still fit the fridge. The extra material I have in the base of the drawer side for electrical and the air compressor and tank make it like tetris to take in and out.

That probably covers it. How'd you like Maine?

 

I've been slacking on the updates here but been making good progress on the rig over the last month or so. I was able to get a good deal on some Renogy solar panels to check another box off on my build list (thanks @.45 JHP for putting together the GB!) that will keep the batteries topped off in camp. The goodies:





I went with the 100W fixed mount to go on the PrInSu permanently and a 100W suitcase that can be used with either the Tacoma or the camper. First thing was to prep and paint the frame of the fixed panel as I didn't want the silver drawing attention up on the rack.





I mounted it up using some 2” square u-bolts so all the nuts are concealed up under the panel making for a super clean and secure install. Fits perfect with the space I had left up there. The wiring passes through the roof using another gland fitting similar to the awning lighting and runs back to the controller.



I used the solar controller of the 100W suitcase in the Tacoma as it isn't waterproof. I tucked it up on an aluminum plate up above the windoor so its out of the way yet visible with the doors all shut to monitor the system.




From the controller the wires run down to the rear 6GA battery cables through some Anderson plugs in case I ever need to pull the topper.



And wrapped up some tidy wiring..



Since I cannibalized the 100W suitcase I rewired it through a small electrical box using a waterproof MorningStar controller. Now I can leave the unit deployed in camp and not have to worry about a passing shower causing issues. A literal 5 pounds in a small package...



More to come on the suitcase setup plus updates on sound deadener and skids!

 

Installed sound deadener from @manethon and am quite pleased with the results. Overall the install was pretty easy, the interior disassembly is straight forward and the headliner tutorial here from @Molon Labe was really helpful. I didn't have any issues with removal of the backing paper as some others have had. Only real troubles were the tedious areas like the doors where I wanted to insulate between the crash bars and the door skins.

I ended up getting two boxes worth and still have plenty left to do the footwells and the lower firewall next time the interior is cleaned out. I think the footwells will cut down on the tire hum I still get at speed.






Was super careful removing the vapor barrier and was able to get it back on using the original mastic





I found that doing the doors made a substantial difference in cabin noise and gives the doors a nice quality sound when closed compared to the empty trash can sound of stock.

I really couldn't believe the lack of material up on the roof – just a big floppy sheet metal skin. I left the headliner in the cab as I didn't want to fold it and just slid it around to get access where needed.








The headliner and rear cab wall didn't seem to make as noticeable difference though I haven't been in the truck in a heavy rain since I did the roof. I suspect that will be controlled much better with all the mat up there.

I also did the inside of the tailgate as a few others have done – it made the tailgate feel more substantial and toned down the cheap sound when shutting it. I think combining this with an upcoming tailgate reinforcement plate will be a nice improvement.

 

Nice work

 

Thanks

 

A little teaser up things to come

 

So I received a full set of @Pelfreybilt skids which look awesome. Very well packaged and survied the trip cross-country with no issues at all. The welds are very nicely done and the steel is nicely prepped for paint right out of the box. That said, I wanted a little larger access to the drain plug on the oil pan so I decided to cut 'em up!




Hole saw made clean work of the corners and connected the dots with a cutoff wheel.



Used some pre-cut 3/16" thick column base plates for the access panel backer and the panel itself. The panel here is 6" square and I knocked down the corners with a flap wheel to fit the hole saw radius.


This is the access panel backer, a 8" square base plate. Marked and starting to cut for the actual access hole which is about 5" x 5". I figure this will make oil changes a little cleaner than the original hole.


Countersunk the access cover holes for 3/8" stainless bolts.


Access panel backer cut and tacked in and fitting the nuts that will be welded on for the countersunk bolts.


Satisfied with the fit and ready to burn in!




Happy welds!



Throwing on some color, hopefully I'll get them mounted up this weekend.

 

Super clean! I plan to enlarge my oil drain hole some day whenever I need to drop the skid anyway for other work. I was just going to make the hole bigger, but I really like how you did it.

 

Thanks man, I thought about just doing a bigger hole but wanted to avoid the possibility of it becoming a catch point on a rock or something. Wasn't too involved of a project other than cutting the hole through the backer plate.

I was gonna dig out the plasma cutter but the cutoff wheel and the drill worked just fine.

I'm thinking in the future I'll possibly do the same for the transmission but it really only gets serviced every 60k so it's probably no biggie just to drop it.

I hope to get them hung this weekend and get the last coat of paint sprayed on

 

IIRC, you went with bolt on Allpro sliders. I'm also running bolt on Allpro sliders with Full Pelfry skids. Just a heads up that you will need to pick up longer bolts for the back of the transfer case skid. It's because it now bolts through the frame AND the slider metal. I went with 1/4" longer grade 8 bolts. Also, if you have already rerouted the exhaust crossover, I highly recommend removing the old heat shield near the front drive shaft. The skid makes greasing the front drive shaft more difficult, and removing that shield helps a lot.

 

Thanks for the heads up! I haven't done the crossover relocation yet so I'll keep that in mind when I do so in the future and re-plate that rear skid.

I got lucky and found a pair of 1/2" grade 8's in my bolt bin that fit the rear mounts through the sliders - boy what a pain to drill out haha

 

Out with the dented tin skid and in with the real deal -




Still need to do the gas tank skid but I need to figure out what I'm doing for straps.


I also wired up my dual battery monitor - fit perfect in the pen tray and still leaves space for pens underneath!



Shoutout to @spieler for the custom decals!

 

Ya, drilling those holes put a few burns on the arms. I ran the skids for a little while before doing the crossover relocation. After bending the skid, the exhaust developed an annoying rattle, so I figured it was time.
Anyway, your setup is looking great.

 

Link to @spieler decals?

 

He has a thread here in the general sale section - I also had him cut me a state map for the mobile abode here.

Saw you picked up a RTT, sweet!

 

Awesome looking drawers. Do you remember how much ply you ended up using? How many sheets that is.

 

Thanks, they are working great so far. I really like being able to stow all my tools, recovery gear, smalls and spares under the platform and in the drawers and toss everything else on top like riding gear, chairs, etc.

I'd guesstimate that I used around 3 full sheets of 1/2" ply and less than a sheet of 3/4". I used leftovers from a previous project so I don't have any receipts to check off unfortunately. Also, a lot of my cutouts to lighten the box were able to be used for other pieces which helped.

Could be done with less for sure - if you are thinking of building something look for quality plywood - marine with thin plys would be best as the more plys the better. I figure the normal would do for me as I sealed it fairly well from moisture using the bedliner stuff.

 

Hey dude wasn't sure if you were on a trip, did you get my text?

 

Awesome thanks for the reply. Was thinking of using Birch and was planning on 2 full drawers, one on the passenger side being shorter in height for the fridge and power outlets. Possibly locking for both security and valuables while we are away from camp.