Another Bilstein lift thread (6112 and 5160)

I'm looking to finally lift my 2012 DCLB and the choices are still endless. Currently looking at Bilstein 6112's in the front. In the rear in considering the 5160's vs 5100's but the price difference is pretty large. In addition either a 3 leaf progressive AAL or a single add a leaf set. I'm not sure what I need in the rear for the desired approx 2 inches I want. I'm planning on UCA's for ease of alignment and if I decide to make the lift go the full height in the future.
Are the 5160's with a3 leaf progressive overkill or worth the money for a subtle lift? Is not entirely about the cost as it is practicality and not wasting money for no good reason. Thanks for any insight.

 

The 3 leaf will get you 2" if you keep the overload. They ride nice without them in my experience, but I've never ran them with the overload.

Do you NEED remote reservoir rear shocks for the type of off-roading you do? That would be the only thing to determine if it's "overkill" or not.

 

I was also thinking about this set up. Toytec recommended it

 

I don't think I necessarily need the remote reservoir shocks but I don't want to regret not completing the lift with the best compliment. I can get it all for just over $1500 including the UCA'S ($378). The 5100's would save me about $200 but at $1530 total what's $200? The 3 leaf AAL, I was told would potentially lower my towing capacity but I don't tow often or usually max out. If I got the 5100 rears and no UCA'S I would save about $570. I don't want to regret not getting them but I could buy the UCA'S later just don't want to do tear the truck down twice. $143 for the 3 leaf vs. About $77 for 1.5 single AAL saving about $70 more. I really just don't want to buy twice. So as cheap as around $900 for 6112's in front, 5100's with the 1.5 AAL or as much as $1530 with 6112's in the front, 5160's in the rear, 3 leaf AAL and UCA's. That's about a $600 difference.

 

Interested what others think. This is essentially the exact comparison I'm currently wrestling with.

 

I am getting this and having the 6112's built to 2.46. Not getting new UCA's because the last 2 Tacoma's I have had at 2.5 did not need them.

Product Price Quantity Total $214.95

$214.95 $31.99

$31.99 $12.35

$12.35 $134.00

$134.00 $319.90

$319.90 $659.00

$659.00 Cart Totals
Cart Subtotal $1,372.19
Order Total $1,372.19

 

Let us know how it rides man. Might steal this idea from you step-for-step.

 

Well I'm getting the front 6112's set to the fourth setting (2.15"), 5160's for the rear with the wheelers 3 leaf AAL. Going to pass on the UCA'S for now and may get some bumpstops later. Should be good. I'll post picks when I install in December. Thanks for the input.

 

I predict you will get more than your estimated 2.15" lift and I also predict you will have low caster/high camber issues. Just a prediction.

 

Are you suggesting the UCA's? Talking with both shops I ordered my stuff from said less than 3" shouldn't need UCA's.

2.15 is the setting on the 6112's but I know those are never exact.

The 3 leaf without the overload sounds good but I don't want it to be an issue if I tow.

Is there another reason for the caster/camber issue prediction? I'm trying to minimize headache before I'm able to install before Dec.

 

From what I've seen, the "estimates" for lifts are a bit under what people are actually getting out of them.

If you are happy with "spec" you *might* be able to get in that range *if* you only get 2.15" of lift, but I doubt that's all the lift you'll get at the 4th setting. It *might* eventually settle to around 2.15" after those new springs get beat on, but I'll bet you're well over 3" on that setting for a while.

I realize the UCA's are an extra cost and aren't a cheap item, but I feel like they're a necessity for achieving a DESIRABLE alignment rather than a "within spec" alignment. Within spec is not at all where I want my alignment to be if you know how far off "spec" really is.

 

You'll never regret upgrading your control arms. You'll really kick yourself in the ass on the highway or while towing if your caster is too low. Also keep in mind that when upgrading to larger tires a higher than "spec" caster setting is recommended.

 

I see. Damn, the light racing UCA's are around $375 on headstrong which is better priced than most. Any seller recommendations for UCA's? I've worked with wheelersoffroad and Boss4x4 with good experience from both so far. Now I guess I need to search for the best price. After your last post I have done some searching and found the UCA's can be a bigger issue than I thought. The 6112's are coming pre assembled to the 4th setting but it would probably be easier to adjust them down a notch before install. I'm looking for 2-2.5. I think potentially over 3 may be too much.

 

I really appreciate this post. I didn't realize that the benefit far outweighed the cost (financially as well). To spec doesn't matter as much when your truck height is no longer to spec. I ordered the light racing UCA's from Amazon. If anybody else is looking, I found them cheapest there for $365 with free shipping. Using some credit card points I was able to get them for $280 so I cant complain seeing them go for around $450 else ware. Since I have been researching this I realized that Firestone offers a lifetime alignments which is also news to me. Pics to come, but it will be in a few months.

 

I wish I could find more pics with 6112's installed at any setting with 5160's so I can compare the sizes.

 

Any update? Did you get these installed?

 

Not yet, I was deployed and will actually be home finally this afternoon. I should have everything installed in a couple days.

 

Alright, f standby for pics after the alignment is complete. Obviously not a how to thread but I'll give a rundown of the effort put in for the install. The front took me awhile in my garage. To remove the front shocks I had to disconnect the tie rod and loosen the lower control arm. Since I was also installing the UCA'S I removed them to get the shock out as well. The UCA removal was surprisingly very easy with the exception of the long bolt that connects the UCA to the truck. This was a little complicated due to the bolt hitting the wheel well. I tried to cut it with a dremel as well as an electric saw but I had to room to get the additional tools in there. The driver side was effortless with a slight bending of the inner wheel well. The passenger side was no luck with bending due to an unbendable piece of plastic on the inner wheel well so I used a hack saw which took an uncomfortably long time. With that removed I installed the new bolt the opposite direction with ease. The 6112 install was extremely easy since I bought them assembled through wheelers off road.

The 5160's and AAL's surprisingly took longer than the front. Loosening the leaf springs was a learning experiance. When I got to the point of separating the spring from the rear end, another thread here said to lift the truck from the hitch to gain about 3 inches between the spring and rear end. My jack was unable to go that high since I was in my garage. The fix was easy with a little ingenuity. I used a cargo strap from the truck to the spring and separated them that way to loosen the bolt holding them. I had them clamped with a C clamp which was loosened gradually when the bolt was removed and was safe. The AAL I bought from BOSS 4X4 when installed hit the factory leaf clamp holding the other springs together. This was an unfortunate realization because it let to me needing to remove the piece of the factory clamp on the original leaf set. I don't have a grinder and my dremel was not very effective. This made my use a hack saw again which was probably the biggest pain. The hack saw use in the front and rear was the most difficulty due to the limited space to saw. Once the factory clamp was modified, the AAL installed with no problem but I couldn't get the overload spring installed with it due to the clamp placement on the new AAL. The AAL is designed to be used without the overload but I know some still have it. I didn't think it was worth the effort for me and my needs.

The 5160 install was probably the easiest install of the lift and took minutes. For both the front and real, the first side took awhile while the second side was exponentially quicker simply because I knew what I had to adjust before starting. I will post my height measurement after the alignment with pics. I think the front is just slightly higher than the rear and have heard the springs settle a little after a few miles are in them. This will most likely be level.

This setup with the K02 265 70R17's looks great to me and I am glad that there doesn't appear to be a large void of space where the tire should be. The slightly larger tire fills the well evenly so I think it is the stack and performance I had wanted.

The alignment guy asked where I was going to use the reservior shocks ha ha which made me think of justinlhc's post of that would be the only overkill if I didn't need them but they look good and the price wasn't toO bad.

Standby for pics and height and alignment numbers. If anybody has any questions let me know and I appreciate the insight helping me with my decision.

 

Alright, alignment is done. I couldn't begin to say how important the UCA's were. My numbers are Camber .8 Caster 2.3 and Toe .8. Drives nice with no complaints The guy initially told me he didn't think he would get close to the numbers I wanted without lower control arms but the Light Racing UCA's allow a lot of adjustment. My initial height from the ground to the middle of the wheel well was 35 1/4 in the front and 36 3/4 in the rear. With the lift I got about 2 inches with 37 1/2 in the front and 38 3/4 in the rear.

 

Huge improvement. Looks awesome.

What setting are the fronts at that got you the 2"??

Glad to see the 5160's come with new reservoir clips. Mine are on the truck and should be arriving Friday.