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Another Door Lock Actuator *patch* thread

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by kwade, Dec 23, 2012.

  1. Dec 23, 2012 at 12:26 PM
    #1
    kwade

    kwade [OP] Member

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    Over on the TechChat forum, I made a couple posts about a taco lock actuator failure.
    I promised to teardown and patch attempt this weekend.
    I did and I got a few cellphone pics.
    I don't have time right now to get everything properly posted here, so I'll do it in stages. Hold on. I have about 15 pics to show.
    Then add some commentary and link the tumbs to full size pics.
    I do have a photobucket account, so I'll use that.

    First, the actuator, still connected by mechanical links.
    th_Act_CoverClosed_zpsb0a21f1f_d28f4e0f36819b589bc4f2cf5744d7046df9099e.jpg

    Link connector cover open
    th_Act_CoverOpen_zps2fd56db9_7380660d24599d9dbf6685482e7075a4b03e32d5.jpg

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Dec 23, 2012 at 12:34 PM
    #2
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    Or get tapatalk app,real easy posting pics then.
     
  3. Dec 23, 2012 at 12:36 PM
    #3
    kwade

    kwade [OP] Member

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    Thanks K
    I'll look into it. I have the photobucket pics ready, just working them in to my time
     
    Coolerman likes this.
  4. Dec 23, 2012 at 1:12 PM
    #4
    kwade

    kwade [OP] Member

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    Actuator assembly case cover removed
    th_Act_Open_zps5d5ebd61_39363056af39e5007e43a6ad2c1d4ccfd8cc5fed.jpg

    The prize. Now to remove it.
    th_MotorElec_zpsfe1bedaa_0453c05fd5dbe228c847155df8d6ce96bd94a077.jpg

    I removed the switch assembly to get the motor electrical connectors out of the way. two screws (Not the one holding the switch down.)
    Switch assembly and actuator with motor removed
    th_ElecAssy_zps6f20137e_13ae30e91c2f185cd33e78df3b62820dee5ca4f4.jpgth_Actuator_MotorRemoved_zps6ba5d601_bdf25c5c5abd11f1b11b6efb82845e363196f0ca.jpg

    The prize with embossed info VD297427 made in Vietnam
    th_MotorampGear_zps6968f42d_847a18bf532e478d3d8f8d9f331c4cb9b8b1f44b.jpgth_MotorEmboss_2_zps26ce400d_337a980e920f01efd83114f7a10e00abe0774a9f.jpg

    Commutator end.
    Now to crack this nut.
    Pry up the locking tabs from the grooves
    difficult . you can see the chewed up metal in this pic
    th_MotorCommEnd_zpsaea0b0a3_015166fdf1f67ccbb1077ec5e9f9dfcea1ad0bc7.jpg

    Problem. Burned Commutator bars.
    I used some fine sandpaper to burnish the bar surfaces.
    I did NOT have very fine, so I folded the sandpaper in to a long thin
    strip and gripped it about 2 inches away from the commutator so as NOT to scratch the copper too much.
    I polished the resulting surface with grocery store paper bag. Comm is a bit out of focus on the AFTER pic.
    Before and after
    th_Comm_Burn_zpsc6f585a5_f95776ae93d9bc8e653e3ca1d2c5b2b98bbaed88.jpgth_Comm_Burnish_zps0692ccb4_86e6f4fdc74ca9e995fa799a3c7a589845760271.jpg

    Brush housing
    th_BrushHousing_zps80de18f3_961c9575c5d7991aa88f5e5707350ac45ccbfa13.jpg

    Now to reassembly......
    I tried several approaches.
    1. Removing the bushing and plastic washer from the shaft at the commutator. I placed the bushing and washer in the comm housing and attempted to finesse the comm between the brushes and then into the hole in the housing. Did not work!
    2. Insert narrow piece of cardstock between the brush holder, insert comm and remove cardstock. Did not work!
    3. Same as #2, except using very thin plastic (very thin water bottle). Same result as #2. Did not work!
    4. Pull the gear about 1/2 inch away from the motor housing.
    Mine would slide down the shaft, so this was easy. It made a bit of viewing room at the comm end during assembly.

    Insert this into the motor shaft hole in the brush housing.
    th_CurvedPick_zpsf5a38bc3_9a1a21cbdf65855ac231826f3f0f2a62258e365e.jpg
    Then insert the commutator part-way into brush assembly, slowly, gently rotating the curved pick (thanks Pugga) to cause the commutator brush spring clips to get out of the way of the comm while pressing slightly on the top of gear.
    Once seated, I pressed the gear back to original position.
    I ohmed the motor for connection, the put the DMM in volt mode and spun the motor. The generated voltage confirmed the connection.
    I removed the DMM and spun the motor a bit to aid in brush seating.
    I reassembled all of the bits, taking care to place the blue bar back and the switch arm where they belong. You can see the blue bar in the second pic, under the switch arm, and in the third pic at the top.
    I put the case back together and inserted the electrical connector to test it. It did not work.
    But then, nothing else worked. My battery had died overnight! :eek: I guess the door being open for a while was enough to finish the battery. It was the original Toyota/JohnsonControls battery from 2008.
    I charged the battery for several minutes and rechecked. The actuator worked. It was slamming the actuator in and out of lock position. I remounted the lock actuator and left to buy a new battery!
    Thanks TW. Now I just hope to get a few years out of this patch!
     
    Coolerman likes this.
  5. Dec 23, 2012 at 1:17 PM
    #5
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    Good write up,thanks for sharing.
     
  6. Dec 24, 2012 at 8:41 AM
    #6
    Amo-cat3

    Amo-cat3 Wizard Sleeve Master

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    Thanks for the write up and pics Kwade - Good job!! Hope they work for another 200,000 miles.
     
  7. Dec 24, 2012 at 8:43 AM
    #7
    goufcustom

    goufcustom 7.62x63mm

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    Cool, I have had 3 of the 4 in my truck replaced, they were replaced before I bought it, but I figure it is only a matter of time...
     
  8. Dec 24, 2012 at 1:24 PM
    #8
    kwade

    kwade [OP] Member

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    YOU are welcome, Kolunatic!
     
  9. Dec 24, 2012 at 1:25 PM
    #9
    kwade

    kwade [OP] Member

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    Thanks for the kind words.
     
  10. Dec 25, 2012 at 7:31 PM
    #10
    kwade

    kwade [OP] Member

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    Small update.
    I mentioned earlier that I had to replace my battery. Now I have to kill the seatbelt chime again.:(
     
  11. Jan 16, 2013 at 3:29 PM
    #11
    kwade

    kwade [OP] Member

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    I hate to say it, but it didn't last a full month. It is back!
     
  12. Jan 16, 2013 at 3:59 PM
    #12
    Amo-cat3

    Amo-cat3 Wizard Sleeve Master

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    after a year of not working, the last two weeks my drivers side actuator started working again - but as of yesterday it stopped again. :(
     
  13. Jan 18, 2013 at 8:05 AM
    #13
    CtTaco

    CtTaco Well-Known Member

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    Mine have been making an intermittent grinding noise onthe dr rear door for a whole now. Sound much more like a stripped gear in my case tho. Did yours make any noise before they failed?
     
  14. Jan 18, 2013 at 8:26 AM
    #14
    Amo-cat3

    Amo-cat3 Wizard Sleeve Master

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    No grinding noises, just stopped one day.
     
  15. Jan 18, 2013 at 8:30 AM
    #15
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    I did this fix a while back, almost a year ago and they are still going strong. My driver's side lock would not react at all, I had to manually lock and unlock it. I tore everything apart and cleaned it with CRC Electrical Cleaner (red can, looks like Brakleen). Everything is still working perfectly.
     
  16. Jan 19, 2013 at 3:20 PM
    #16
    kwade

    kwade [OP] Member

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    CtTaco,
    No grinding. The sound like a double-push of the LOCK button is what I heard.
     
  17. Feb 4, 2013 at 11:52 AM
    #17
    RichieW13

    RichieW13 Well-Known Member

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    I fixed my driver door about 10 months ago. It has just stopped working again.

    Also, my left rear door stopped working a couple months ago.

    This is so annoying. Have any aftermarket companies come up with a better design?
     
  18. Feb 5, 2013 at 7:11 AM
    #18
    CtTaco

    CtTaco Well-Known Member

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    Mines still under warranty thankfully. I doesn't do it all the time so it's been hardto make it happen infront of them but a least its on the books as being a problem so if it fails after warranty it's been well documented (I hope :D )
     
  19. Mar 11, 2013 at 7:11 PM
    #19
    NCTacoma

    NCTacoma Rather be in the mtns

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    I have 3 of 4 not functioning properly. I tried to get mine apart but couldn't get the case apart to get to the motor without breaking it. Probably doing something wrong but I'm not sure. 5 galvanized screws and 1 black screw. Got all the clips seperated but couldn't get it to pull apart. I can get the front actuator at cost though a buddy for $200. Are any of the aftermarket actuators worth anything? Seems like I saw some of those for around $60-70. I would rather fix mine but I'm not having much luck. Any help?
     
  20. Nov 20, 2013 at 3:25 PM
    #20
    RichieW13

    RichieW13 Well-Known Member

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    How many of you have taken apart your actuators only for them to quit working again a few months later?

    I now have 3 doors that don't work. Last time it took me at least 2 hours to remove, clean and reassemble ONE actuator. I'm not looking forward to a 6-hour project, only to have to do it again a few months later.

    So frustrating.
     
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