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Another LED Wiring question

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by TacoTRD59, Jan 9, 2016.

  1. Jan 9, 2016 at 10:15 AM
    #1
    TacoTRD59

    TacoTRD59 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys, I know this has probably been asked a million and a half times. I can't seem to find a solid answer. I am looking at wiring a 30" or 32" 150-180 watt light bar. Im having trouble finding a kit with a decent rocker switch instead of a ricer special toggle switch. I also need to know what amp is suitable for this application. I would appreciate any input from TW, Y'all have been inviting so far.
     
  2. Jan 9, 2016 at 11:08 AM
    #2
    EricU

    EricU Well-Known Member

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    if you run a relay any 3amp switch will work, if you just run a fused switch look for one with a 20-25amp rating.
    i used daystar switches on my last truck and had a 40 inch led bar going off just the switch with no issue.

    a lot of people like the otrattw switches (or whatever the abbriviation is)
     
  3. Jan 9, 2016 at 11:19 AM
    #3
    916TacoTruck

    916TacoTruck BallzDeep is how I go

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    If you go with just a switch and no relay, the switch needs to handle 15amps.
     
  4. Jan 9, 2016 at 11:55 AM
    #4
    TacoTRD59

    TacoTRD59 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So if I go overkill with a 20amp switch, I should be good to go. What's the difference between w/ or w/o the relay
     
  5. Jan 9, 2016 at 12:14 PM
    #5
    916TacoTruck

    916TacoTruck BallzDeep is how I go

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    I have a 30amp relay that supplies the current for my LED light bar. My switch is a little 3amp switch. My switch wouldn't handle the current to the LED light bar without the relay. All the switch does is turn on the relay.
     
  6. Jan 9, 2016 at 12:23 PM
    #6
    pinoyesv6

    pinoyesv6 Member

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    where is your power source?

    I usually use a relay. It makes wiring cheaper and "easier"

    using a relay, I can usually keep the distance from the power source (usually the battery) close to the relay and the lights. which means less power wire. to trigger wire that goes from the relay to the switch can then be super small since it doesn't take much power to trigger the relay. since that wire is super small, I can sneak it around the different opening in the firewall to get it into the cabin.

    If if you wire your lights directly from the switch, you would go from the power source (ie. the battery) into the cabin, back out of the cabin and to the lights. Depending on where the light bar is going, you might have to upgrade the size of your power wire just because of the distance. upgrading the size means thicker wire, thicker wire is not only more expensive, its harder to route around the car. If that was me, that would be dragging at least 12 gauge, probably 10 from the battery to the cabin and then back.
     
  7. Jan 9, 2016 at 5:39 PM
    #7
    TacoTRD59

    TacoTRD59 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Can you guys point me in the right direction? I would like an oem style push button switch.
     
  8. Jan 9, 2016 at 6:03 PM
    #8
    916TacoTruck

    916TacoTruck BallzDeep is how I go

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  9. Jan 9, 2016 at 6:10 PM
    #9
    pinoyesv6

    pinoyesv6 Member

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  10. Jan 9, 2016 at 6:34 PM
    #10
    TacoTRD59

    TacoTRD59 [OP] Well-Known Member

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  11. Jan 9, 2016 at 6:59 PM
    #11
    pinoyesv6

    pinoyesv6 Member

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    If its just a single light bar, you only need a single lead harness.

    I usually build my harnesses just because I get a cleaner install since all the wires are cut to the right length.

    But if I were to buy a prebuilt harness, I would probably get something like this
    http://www.amazon.com/OPT7-Offroad-...id=1452394416&sr=1-3&keywords=led+bar+harness

    It uses 12ga wire instead of the 16ga and 14ga wire that most kits you see use. Just make sure that the lengths are long enough for your application.
     
  12. Jan 9, 2016 at 7:12 PM
    #12
    TacoTRD59

    TacoTRD59 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I need a relay right?
     
  13. Jan 9, 2016 at 11:17 PM
    #13
    pinoyesv6

    pinoyesv6 Member

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    I would get the 500w model. It comes with a 40a relay and with lights i tend not to skimp out when it comes to power.
     
  14. Jan 10, 2016 at 10:43 AM
    #14
    TacoTRD59

    TacoTRD59 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I see it has one, but it's 14g not 12
    Im only planning on a 30 inch bar for now. Are relays replaceable? its a blade style fuse inside of it right? so i could just up the fuse? its 14G wire, and in my trade 14g wire is usually only good for 15 amps
     
  15. Jan 10, 2016 at 11:11 AM
    #15
    metrick1215

    metrick1215 Pirate Medic

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  16. Jan 10, 2016 at 9:17 PM
    #16
    pinoyesv6

    pinoyesv6 Member

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    that is why I recommend getting the kit with 12 ga wire. while 14 gauge will be sufficient with your desired setup, the 12ga wire would give you a little room for growth if you decide in the future to swap the bar for something with a little more power. its going to be easier to swap out a fuse than it is to swap out wiring.
     
    TacoTRD59 [OP] likes this.
  17. Jan 20, 2016 at 7:19 PM
    #17
    TacoTRD59

    TacoTRD59 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok, so everything came in and I'm lost, lol. The harness came with a switch already, a circular rocker switch with an LED on it. I bought an oem switch to fit in one of the blank spots, it's also lighted. The new switch has 4 wires and the harness has 3 wires. W the fuck. I rang then out and fount the switch leg. I tried every combination and I can't get the switch to work. The lightbar is either constantly on with the LED on the switch as well. Or nothing the LED on the switch is on but it doesn't turn on the lightbar.
     
  18. Feb 21, 2016 at 11:17 PM
    #18
    thumper72

    thumper72 Well-Known Member

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    5100's, ome dakar leafs and ome coils, problem solver tie rods, eazycompany ditch light brackets and auxbeam osram 4" led pods, 2014 4runner wheels, 265/70/17 goodyear authority tires, soon to have 50" led bar on roof
    1 x Wiring Harness
    Full Wiring Kit for All Light Bars with LASER ROCKER SWITCH ON/ OFF switch for 7'';, 10'';, 13'';, 20'';, 30'';, 40''; 50''
    Installation:
    1. connect the the red+ wire from the fuse to battery +; connect the black wire from the reply to the battery ¨C;
    2. connect the wire for lights bar from the relay; (red/black correspond to the wire of lights bar)
    3. connect the white +/black- wire of the switch to battery or any place of your car system to get power for the switch
    4. turn on on/off button of switch to test the lights bar

    i dont know if this will help or not but i found it while searching for a light bar. towards bottom on description...
    http://www.amazon.com/mictuning-Wir...22614&sr=8-52&keywords=led+bar+wiring+harness
     
  19. Feb 22, 2016 at 2:13 AM
    #19
    TacoTRD59

    TacoTRD59 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The switch is lighted. It has 4 wires
     
  20. Jul 6, 2016 at 7:00 PM
    #20
    bulldog

    bulldog Well-Known Member

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    MobTown Sliders Line-Xed RCI Aluminum Skid BAMF Recessed Grille Clazzio Dark Gray Seat Covers 35% Tint Vinyl Tailgate Letters Undercover Elite Tonneau Apex Stealth Cali LED 31.5" w/upgrade OPT 7 harness and MicTuning Switch Homelink Autodim Compass RV Mirror 265/70 16 Michelin LTX M/S Defender Tires SCS Ray 10 Gunmetal 17' Pro Rigid Fog Lights 17' Pro Tail Lights OEM Roof Rack OEM Rubber Mats
    I went with the OPT7 14 ga single wiring harness and am wiring up a Mictuning LED bar switch. I don't want the switch to light up or tap into the factory wiring. I know to cap off the middle wire on the Micturning harness, but do I also cap off and not use the blue wiring from the wiring harness? It only has 2 leads to the battery, but 3 to the switch. I would appreciate any input :)
     

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