Another LED Wiring question

I was wondering if you were able to get this wiring to work because I'm in the same situation. My switch has 4 wires but the switch that came with the wiring harness has 3.

 

What switch did you buy? Did it come with a pin diagram?

 

I bought the exact wiring harness you have and the same LED light bar mictuning switch ..Theres a ton of vids online saying use a powertap to go to a fuse on the underdash fusebox.. https://goo.gl/images/XyGjkV

No need to... Just tap the RED # 2(see diagram) into the wire loom next to the switch like your fog light switch(it lights up as well) it will have a lighted wire (gonna have to use a ohm meter or test light) its green if I remember correctly. https://goo.gl/images/wdUFxn

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1220/2430/files/Toyota_Switch_Wiring.pdf?17832758548283489997

good luck

 

Yep, thread is pretty old, but since it is being revitalized, here are some correct answers for sizing out electrical parts;

LED lights are NOT an inductive load, so you don't have to overrate the switch or muck around with flyback diodes.
The formula is POWER = CURRENT * VOLTAGE.
Voltage is 14 volts
Power is 150 or 180 watts
150/14 = 10.71 amps.
180/14 = 12.86 amps.
So you want to aim for wiring, fuse, switch that is minimum 13 amps.

Unless your lights have a built in RELAY, in which case, your switch can be much smaller. Supply fuse still has to handle the full load.
Also note that if your lights have a relay, that a relay is an INDUCTIVE LOAD, which means that your switch should be protected by a flyback diode to prevent arcing.