Anthony's 2010 banworthy access cab mostly BS not much of a build thread

Ain’t that the truth!

took the taco for a spin today, with the new trans mount and front bushings the ride is much better and the drivetrain feels “snappier”. Think my motor mounts will hold up with one less bolt for a while, at least I hope haha. Took the truck to pick up some lumber for a little Saturday shop project. Built a shelf above the work bench and added two of the HF 10000 lumen overhead LED shop lights, damn they are bright!

 

Big oof. I guess the concern is even if you can get the welder in there, there is a high chance of accidentally hitting the motor mount with the welding wire too right? Will definitely be easier to get it out with the welder with the motor out.

 

Well it's a catch 22. I think I'm ok to run with 3 of the 4 bolts on that side indefinitely so I have swept away the requirement for the immediate fix in my mind (again this is just the engineering in me thinking this, time will tell).

To get the MIG gun in there, I'd have to remove the mount completely. I got all the other bolts loose except 1, and if that last one also breaks, I know I would NOT be good to run with only 2 of the 4 bolts holding the engine to the mount. Plus that last bolt I didn't attempt to loosen is behind the header, a real bitch to get to, so at that point I'd be forced to remove the engine. I just dropped the damn drivetrain to do the clutch and flywheel last year and the engine only has 55k on it, so I don't plan on pulling the engine anytime soon.

I'd rather leave well enough alone until I'm ready to fix it right.

 

Yeah that makes sense, why open a bigger can of worms before you are ready to...

 

Old condenser is out. Nothing is ever easy. The drop brackets for the radiator were rusted to hell, broke 3 of the 4 of them. It isn’t a job until you get the sawzall out

ordered new hardware and brackets from roger brown, guess I’ll have to wait til that gets in to reassemble. Also blew about a pound of dirt out of the radiator

 

Rad hardware showed up today. Replaced the condenser, added 1.4 oz. of PAG 46 oil to the condenser and torqued up the new seal connections to 66 in. lbs per the FSM. Drew vacuum for about 10 minutes and let sit for 30 minutes, no further leakage, that's a bonus. I then proceeded to draw a deep 1 hour vaccum and refill with R134A, ~22 oz, the AC is now blowing cold at 42 degF




Old one was leaking towards the bottom as noted from the dye test. You can see the oil that seeped out at the bottom 1/3, note that I had the original painted black to blend in with the theme of the truck, but with the raptoroshi grill, the zinc coating does not show through so I left as is from Denso

 

Just Curious…

Is the AC worth it (weight and power) when you have tube doors? Or do you find the cold air blowing at you enough?

 

Hailing from the northeast where humidity sucks ass the AC is def worth it. I haven’t had the tube doors on in a couple years but I plan on putting them on this fall.

 

The gifts keep on giving

my 3rd member has been seeping for a while now so a good excuse I suppose to replace the rear axle seal as well as reseal the differential.

 

Such an annoying fix but should be easy work with the press.

 

shouldn’t even need a press for the 2nd gen. Worst part is probably just having to bleed the brakes again.

 

Got started on the truck today. Put up on the lift, drained the front and rear differentials for a fluid change


Drivers side brake setup, filled with gear oil and brake dust which equals nasty goo.


I cleaned up the axle and the brake components today, tomorrow I'll tackle replacing the seals and resealing the 3rd member. The new axle seals showed up today around 5pm from the fedex man


Those white things are the rear axle brake drum gaskets, I've never heard of them or don't think I noticed them installed on my truck before. Does anyone know if these came from the factory with them? Seems they go between the hub and drum, possibly to keep the drum from seizing up? Don't currently have them installed on the truck, so not sure they are entirely needed but they were only $1 a pop.



I sprayed down the bolts for the front bumpstops with Kroil today in hopes they will come loose tomorrow so I can install the duro bumps


For the rear, I'll ditch my wheelers setup on top of the frame strikeplate and put the durobumps mounted to the ubolt plate. I'm going to need to take some measurements and fabricate a spacer to limit the uptravel. Not sure I'll get to this tomorrow or not.

 

Random question... how far is your lift setback from the door?

 

I went out and measure this morning, it’s right at 17.5’ to the center of the lift post from the door. This leaves me about 6’ of clearance from the back of the tailgate to the garage door while on the lift. A full size rig or a long bed taco will obviously be a little less clearance. I’d place it to where you have at least 3-4’ of working room based on the largest vehicle you plan to put on there.


got the old bump tops off this morning. The passenger front one was a struggle. Glad nothing snapped though, used plenty of kroil for several days. 10 year old wheelers bumps vs new durobumps


Off to pick up some RTV and mess with the axle seals this afternoon.

 

Well looks like it’s time for some new wheel bearings too. Fawk me

 

Oof! At least the refresh will be complete and you won't have to worry about possibly needing to go back in shortly after to change something out you didn't go ahead with....


















Just trying to show a bright side!

 

hmmm, yeah we’ll go with that

 

Well things are progressing anyhow. I was out of town last weekend and this week waiting for parts to show up. These came today, the bearings and brakes should be here thursday, and I haven't gotten a shipping notice on the retainer and lock ring yet hopefully that will ship and get here by end of the week.



Instead of working on the truck I got to replace cap and contactor since my AC decided to take a shit last night.

 

We are in the cool now