Any redflags in my 2023 build?

Oh my bad I didn’t realize you know everything already. My posts prior to the one you quoted was advice. The one you quoted was more disdain for your attitude toward the great advice that’s been given. There’s a damn good reason a lot of people are saying to go stock and learn from there. But if you know everything then that’s fine. Do your build buddy.

 

For 34” tires also depends on c rating of 3 ply or e rating of 10 ply huge weight difference also important of which wheels you run cast vs forged play a huge part in weight too for rotational mass. If you’re not towing 5.29 is way overkill. 4.11 would be ideal but they don’t make that ratio for yotas for some reason. 4.88 will be fine. I’ll be running 285/70-17 with the stock ratio of 3.91 which is at the very begining of the charts. If I decide to go up a size to 295 or 305 then I’d go 4.88 if stay at those sizes. No idea for now.

 

He says at the end of that video in no uncertain terms that the spacer does in fact add 1inch of downtravel. One of you is wrong. watch at 13:14-13:23
I do understand that the factory springs wont acheive 2.5in on the 5100s. I only used that number for the sake of comparison. Ill probably be using some OME springs.

 

Thats why I want to wait and see how it feels with all the added weight. 5.29 sounds like overkill to me but alot of guys run and love them.

 

Don’t do ome with 5100’s they’re too stiff. Hit the right pothole, rock or speed bump you’re going to stuff the lower shock mount into the the shock body. Go eibach, or swift springs which is what king and fox run. Find the correct spring rate and lift you want.

note the pic below is a OME spring used on a 5100. Look and tell me what’s wrong with the pic…

 

Fair.

Some folks got lots of money and they spend it to make them happy, nothing wrong with that IMHO

But I do hear you on the advice offering part.

 

My springs are 590# and it feels quite nice.

 

Isn’t that a stock TRD OR shock?

 

My 255/80/17 E rated wildpeaks are only 52 pounds. I can’t recommend them enough.

 

the bottom of the shock is hitting the mount.

 

Ive been reading all morning about this and everyone is all over the place. Ill probably follow that advice and get some elibachs or swift springs while I can still return the OMEs. I Ideally want to end with 2.0 inches of lift after the bumper and winch.

 

One thing your missing here is weight. I had 285 duratracs on a fuel wheel weight was around 85lbs if I recall right. Changed my wheel out then bumped to a 295 and the weights were virtually the same. Besides some differences in characteristics of an A/T to M/T mileage and power have remained very similar so simply grouping this size with that performance really doesn't work. I find wheel weight is often well over looked.

 

What type of off-roading are you doing? Your current build plans wont be favorable to anything high-speed for longer durations. Even low-speed hits will be impacted with that shock setup.

This hobby adds up fast as you know. I'd argue save the money on those bumpers/winch and spend it on some actual shocks.

 

I’m running 34” tires and have 4.88’s with ov tune, the improvement over the 3.91’s is very significant. If your running your taco stock the 4.88’s would improve drivability.

I don’t think 5.29’s would be overkill at all. My truck is fairly light weight. But if you plan on running an overland setup with a significant amount of weight or 35” tires I think 5.29’s are almost mandatory.

If I had to do it over, I’d opt for the 5.29’s and don’t look back.

 

Welcome to the TW.

 

I was basing it off say TE37XT M spec 17x8.5 -10 at 17lbs with toyo at3 285/70-17 E spec at 56 lbs for 73 lbs vs yea fuels or other cast wheels and E spec. I just got lazy on that a lil earlier while going thru it.

 

Yes. Toyota used 5100’s on some tundras and Tacos and still do by contract. They also use 4600’s and Hitachi shocks depending on the model.
The 5100 I used as an example up there got it’s lower 3” of post shoved into the shock body due to the OME spring being too stiff so the weakest point of the shock became the bump stop..

edit: yeah I didn’t mention the pros, not the point right now.

 

Yes and no. The lower mounting post is inside the shock body as the ome spring was too stiff not allowing the shock to cycle on a pot hole, the weakest point of the shock became the bump stop

Here’s a pic of how the shock is supposed to look. Yes different truck but also with an ome spring

 

Oh shit I see it now that’s crazy