Anyone running a Currie F9 or Rock Jock rear end?

Considering a serious upgrade to some hardware, I'm concerned about drivability and would like to hear what others have to say - I still daily drive my truck, and tow my boat with it so it can't suck.

 

Why? Both those axles are $$$$$. You'd be better off using a FF 9.5 with a centered Ruffstuff housing. What drivability issues are you concerned with?

 

What is this ff 9.5 you speak of... I'm willing to consider other options, those are just the ones I know.

As for why, the primary reason is they seem well proven, Ford 9" are used in everything from 2000whp race cars to world class crawlers, Currie makes a bolt on kit, which yes expensive, but also damn near impossible to break, especially with a tacoma...

I would also consider the 8.4" option out of the sport, but frankly it's just not a whole lot cheaper by the time I add a rear locker and everything.

As for drivability - noise and street manners matter to me, although on the 37s it's already not an awesome truck on the street lol.

-Z

 

The FF 9.5 is out of the FZJ80 (94-97). Factory disc brakes, full float, and optional elocker (can be problematic though). I'm not a big fan of the 9 inch, pinion is easy to damn low compared to other axles. Yes it is strong but only if you throw the wallet at it. Noise and street manners will come into play with locker choice not necessarily axle choice.

 

The real drive to the F9 9" is the fact that it's a bolt in affair - the rock jock 60 offsets the drive shaft and solves the low shaft issue, however frankly on the long chassis/shortbed truck the driveshaft is too low no matter what. - The FJZ80 rear might be an option but not having a bolt in configuration means a lot more work on brakes, lines, perches, etc which I think will offset the cost. The Ford 9 is also extremely serviceable if something goes wrong with parts available at practically every parts store in the world.

I hear you though - it may not be optimal and the dana 60 is quite expensive as well.

I'm less concerned with cost than I am with doing it right and doing it once.

 

Dana 60 rears arent too bad priced, but i learned early on, if thisvis gonna be your toy and streetable you better be ready to shell some coin

 

yeah, I'm already in overboard on this thing, started off with a 41k$ tacoma, had a super charger before it left the dealer, and have continued to throw cash at it like a vegas strip club, but I love it and it's a lot of fun, I beat the crap out of it and am 30k miles,2 trips to moab, wheeling almost every weekend when not on the boat during the summers. I'm guessing the rear setup is gonna cost me 4-5k to do it right, and the front is another 2k.

 

Either a ford 9 or dana 60 would be my first two choices with a lockrite locker, or ARB if you prefer selectable, if you are planning to SAS on tons make sure you get dana 60s with a kingpin set up

 

I don't think SAS is in my future - I really like IFS fronts, and enjoy the streetability. It'll be ARB since having a selectable lock is key to not hating life on the street.

 

have you blown up your current rear axle? what is your reason for wanting the upgrade?

 

nope, but it's definitely the weak spot - the rear pinion on the TRDOR trucks is 8.0 and is a pretty well known weakness - it's gonna happen, and with my luck it'll happen in Moab - I'm having to do a real front locker in the front, will probably gear to at least 4.56s and since everything is coming out, that's what has me thinking.

 

Just run it till it breaks, no sense in dropping coin if you don't need to. I would just be prepared in case it does.

 

Tbh if you arent gonna SAS an 8.4 will do...eventually your CVs will be the weak point

 

Old thread revival.
Curious what you went with if anything. I have been considering different options including wanting to stay toyota for now. a full float centered 9.5 is the current want and just trying to find a housing locally that fits the bill. If i was to pick a second option other then the 9.5 I think I would pick the 9 inch ford. its light and strong and can handle a lot of power.

 

Don't do the FF9.5.

Even magazines say it's almost pointless as parts cost more for them and parts aren't everywhere for it.

Currie is selling the rockjock for $2k, find a salvage yard and get the carrier from the front of a Ford Dana 60, it is high pinion and the inner shafts were 35 spline. You'll then just need to provide a locker and regear.

Call currie and make sure the front carrier will work of course as I'm guessing due to the similarities.

 

I wouldnt bother with the upgrade till it breaks. i ran my old 80s toyota with the 8" with 37s for years and no issues. if you do upgrade, not sure i would ever put a 60 under the rear, mind as well go with a 14bolt and shave it, stronger then a 60 and cheap.
the FF9.5 is a neat option if you can find a full axle for a good price.

 

Due to limitations I am unable to run anything but Toyota parts. The next option would be a tundra 10.5 inch. And those are way more rare.
Kinda wondering why the 9.5 is deemed that you can't get parts for. Seems to be the more common axle unless your specifically talking the states alone.
I would also prefer to keep size down so the dana 60 and chevy 14 bolt are out

 

if you are left with only toyota parts, then anything full floater would be my go to. I have ran a custom 8" FF from a toyota flatbed setup and that was neat, but i would love a larger ring setup. the FF 9.5 is a good setup and yes you can find parts lol

 

Wait, the high pinion rock jock 60 probably give same clearance. It's a thing of beauty, I just can't afford it.

plus I never plan to wheel my new truck that hard, I'll keep a cheap bouncer.