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Anyone running different sized subs?

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by davidjmay, Jan 22, 2013.

  1. Jan 24, 2013 at 9:48 PM
    #21
    Mr. Brown

    Mr. Brown Well-Known Member

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    I don't know how the 1st gens are laid out, but have you thought about running bigger mids under power? They have speakers that are 7" up to 9" mid-range subs. I may be wrong, and ItalynStallyn probably knows better, but I'd say that might be exactly what you need.

    I had a 1st gen S-10 and I ran custom boxes in the doors with MTX 8" mid range subs. one JL audio 12" with a custom built center console, and the amps under the seats.
     
  2. Jan 24, 2013 at 9:51 PM
    #22
    blake5995

    blake5995 Well-Known Member

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    I have had three different subs in my vehicles they were all made by dc soundlab. Everytime i make a box i have the owner of dc soundlab (friend of mine) to design the box and i just build it lol.
     
  3. Jan 24, 2013 at 10:09 PM
    #23
    davidjmay

    davidjmay [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Pioneer HU & door speakers, Alpine type R, Kicker dx1000.1, OME 883 lift, Wheelers 2" AAL, custom mesh grille, smoked LED taillights, LED light bar, Raptor exhaust dumped before axle, custom fabbed roll bar/light bar mount
    No can do. What little space I have, I plan on using for the sub. Stock speaker mounts are 6" circles so I would eventually just have to upgrade the speakers
     
  4. Jan 24, 2013 at 10:12 PM
    #24
    Mr. Brown

    Mr. Brown Well-Known Member

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    Vehicle:
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    Suspensiopn: Donahoe coil overs, Donahoe rear reservoir shocks, Light Racing UCA's, Wheelers AAL's, Exterior: Powder-coated black billet grill, Hella Black Magic fog lights, color matched rear bumper, color matched side mirrors, undercover tonneau cover, Interior: Alpine W203 w/ Blackbird II, Weathertech Floor-liners, blue gauge light mod, Performance: AFE Stage II Intake, Banks exhaust, single cat y-pipe, Dynomat hood-liner, NST Performance pulleys, URD MAF calibrator
    Yeah, I had to completely redo the lower part of the door to fit them.
    It would look something like this:
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Jan 24, 2013 at 10:30 PM
    #25
    davidjmay

    davidjmay [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Pioneer HU & door speakers, Alpine type R, Kicker dx1000.1, OME 883 lift, Wheelers 2" AAL, custom mesh grille, smoked LED taillights, LED light bar, Raptor exhaust dumped before axle, custom fabbed roll bar/light bar mount
    Yeah... I mean i guess I would rather just spend the money and get really good quality 6" comps. Might eventually do some modification to the rear to accommodate for 6x9's, but that's a ways down the road. Even with how crappy the bass is on my pioneer 6" 3-ways, The 10" sub I have makes up for it. Now I think I'm gonna take the sub a little bit further. Will crap one of my back seats, but since I'm 6'3 I dont like people sitting back there anyways unless they absolutely have to, in which case I can easily disconnect the sub and put it in the bed (would have to figure out a way to secure it in the bed of course while driving)
     
  6. Jan 24, 2013 at 10:41 PM
    #26
    Mr. Brown

    Mr. Brown Well-Known Member

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    Suspensiopn: Donahoe coil overs, Donahoe rear reservoir shocks, Light Racing UCA's, Wheelers AAL's, Exterior: Powder-coated black billet grill, Hella Black Magic fog lights, color matched rear bumper, color matched side mirrors, undercover tonneau cover, Interior: Alpine W203 w/ Blackbird II, Weathertech Floor-liners, blue gauge light mod, Performance: AFE Stage II Intake, Banks exhaust, single cat y-pipe, Dynomat hood-liner, NST Performance pulleys, URD MAF calibrator
    Whatever works for you man, good luck with it all.
     
  7. Jan 24, 2013 at 10:44 PM
    #27
    davidjmay

    davidjmay [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Pioneer HU & door speakers, Alpine type R, Kicker dx1000.1, OME 883 lift, Wheelers 2" AAL, custom mesh grille, smoked LED taillights, LED light bar, Raptor exhaust dumped before axle, custom fabbed roll bar/light bar mount
    Thanks bud. Hopefully ItalynStylion will chime in again and help with my amp question.
     
  8. Jan 24, 2013 at 10:46 PM
    #28
    Mr. Brown

    Mr. Brown Well-Known Member

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  9. Jan 24, 2013 at 10:58 PM
    #29
    davidjmay

    davidjmay [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hm, thanks! Some good entry level information in there I guess. Are you running any subs or just those bigger door speakers?
     
  10. Jan 24, 2013 at 11:17 PM
    #30
    Mr. Brown

    Mr. Brown Well-Known Member

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    That was my old truck. I had a decent system in my Tacoma. I replaced the head unit and stock speakers but never got around to a sub. I am working on the layout for my new car (a challenger) which will have two 12" shallow mount Rockford Fosgates I got hooked up with.
     
  11. Jan 24, 2013 at 11:28 PM
    #31
    davidjmay

    davidjmay [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Dope! Challengers are sick. Want to see some picthres of the installed subs when they're done! :thumbsup:
     
  12. Jan 24, 2013 at 11:43 PM
    #32
    Mr. Brown

    Mr. Brown Well-Known Member

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    For sure man!
     
  13. Jan 25, 2013 at 7:20 PM
    #33
    Beach Taco

    Beach Taco Well-Known Member

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    I put the 10 behind my seats in my dbl cab. I think most pics of access cab enclosures I have seen are some kind of box over the hump taking the center console to the back wall. Google "your year, tacoma sub enclosures" and hit pics. probably alot of ideas out there. I have 6.5 polk Db series in my front doors. I dynamat'ed each door about 25%(12x12 piece at speaker opening and more) and built an adapter out of mdf for each door, upgraded the wiring.I am running an alpine 50x4 to my 6.5" components up front. They sound good and have good kick. I cut them off around 100Hz. Definitly stick with one size sub for the lows. cheaper lets say 500x1 amp probably putting out 100 to 400 watts (90% of time). better quality amp brand that is i think its called "2006 cea compliant". is supposed to be a more true read(watts) as advertised. the amps i have gotten the last few years(kicker, alpine) were rated a little bit higher than even the advertised wattage size. My 300 watt alpine sub amp said it was test certified to 367 watts.
     
  14. Jan 26, 2013 at 3:06 PM
    #34
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    PM me how much space you have to give up (dimensions) and I can help you pick out a sub and design a box for it; or at least the volume and the port tuning.

    As far as power stuff, it doesn't matter really. Power handling of most speakers is determined by the enclosure you stuff it into since the enclosure controls the cone from ripping itself apart.

    I would always tell you to have more power than you need; but only use a portion of it. Power is really simple math. The more you have the louder it will be. If you have a speaker that's 84db efficient and you feed it 128 watts you'll get 105db of output. If you double the power to 256watts you'll get 108db. The more power you have the better. But if your speaker can't handle the full power of the amp just don't use it all...it's that simple.
     
  15. Jan 26, 2013 at 5:10 PM
    #35
    davidjmay

    davidjmay [OP] Well-Known Member

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    '00 PreRunner
    Pioneer HU & door speakers, Alpine type R, Kicker dx1000.1, OME 883 lift, Wheelers 2" AAL, custom mesh grille, smoked LED taillights, LED light bar, Raptor exhaust dumped before axle, custom fabbed roll bar/light bar mount
    Pm'd! Thanks for all the advice
     
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