Anyone with 700lb coil springs and aftermarket plate bumper

Just puttin' it out there what he did, everything seemed to fit just fine though

 

Whoops... I meant TC's old style gussets. The new ones are boxy looking.

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new



Thanks....maybe Ill take you up on that one day.

Hows the axle coming?

 

Yeah, I know, but he just recently installed his ARB bumper and winch. He never ran the bumper and winch with the 650lb/inch Icon coilspring, which is 13" long. He replaced the Icon coilspring with a King 700lb/inch, 14" long coilspring before he put the bumper and winch on.

So, he can't really compare the 13" long 650lb Icon with the 14" long 700lb King coilover.

 

Also, since on the topic of spindle gussets, is there anyway to weld these on without completely removing the spindle? I wondering if i could just pull of the wheel/tire . . . but maybe the heat would end up damaging the axle seals or break pads or something.

 

It can be done. Won't look pretty tho. Lol

 

Long travel . . . yup.

 

lol...well that plain sucks. I just figured you had the older ones due to the age of the truck. I guess you are on your second set? and now third?

ABS sensor, axle seals, etc don't like red hot heat.

Just remove them. Not much work IMO.

 

I guess my concern would just be the heat transfer to neighboring parts that would concern me. . . . ABS sensor is a good example . . . break calipers/pads/break fluid. Axles/seals/grease.

 

besides risking the burn

Not sure how you would evenly heat the spindle in order to weld it while it's installed....not sure it's possible

 

hmmm . .. I would think the evenness of the heating would be more related to MIG settings . . . and technique, adequate removal of all paint, etc. Whether it's lying on a workbench or still on the truck just makes it ergonomically more challenging. And of course the possible heat damage to neighboring components. Not sure what you mean by evenly heating the spindle.

 

I heard the spindle must be heated up before welding because it's cast. I am no welder nor do I know anything about the art of it so that info could be inaccurate.

 

mine are not adjustable but, my procomp 3 inch kit has a spring rate of 730 pounds. i'm riding with an arb deluxe bullbar and a warn winch with synthetic line from viking.

at first it was literally unbearable going down the road and i had no up travel as the shocks where maxed out and my alignment was off a by a good bit. but, since the addition of the bull bar and winch and fixing any and all alignment issues the cv's are actually pretty good and the ride with the sway bar removed is compliant on the road and flexes a decent amount when off road.

this set-up will never be confused with an ome kit or icons etc.. but, it has seemed to work out nicely on my regular cab with all the additional weight i added ie, front skid bull bar winch w, syn rope, etc, i'm also running the lr control arms and it seems to have settled nicely it took almost a year but, then & again i don't drive it much at all really. i had i now for just under 2 years and she has only 12k miles on the ticker.

from my understanding unless your really going to be adding some weight to your truck rates that high can be more trouble than they are worth btw my truck sits just a tad over 3 inches in the front but, the cv's don't show it as much do to the diff drop.

hope this helps.

 

your set up doesn't count

No one in their right mind would put a 730# spring on a 4 cylinder reg cab with zero armor or winch besides POS 4wp.

+ this thread is about adjustable coil overs. I can limit my pre-load with a simple twist of my spanner once the truck is jacked up.

 

figured as much

fucking 4wp's

 

Totally agree . . . looking at it . . . it would be a real PITA on the truck . . .have to pull them off.

 

Off topic tangent, but for anyone who has welded on the Total Chaos spindle gussets, once you take the wheel off, and disconnect the tie rod steering link, remove the brake caliper, and brake rotor, and remove the upper and lower control arm links, how difficult is it to separate the spindle from the wheel bearing/hub assembly? I know there are 4 bolts that hold the wheel bearings onto the spindle, and then the hub is pressed onto the wheel bearings. I know it is a real PITA to separate the hub from the wheel bearings without a press, but can the wheel bearings and hub together be easily separated from the spindle?

 

Thanks. But once you start to loosen those 4 bolts, you can pull by hand the hub/wheel bearing assembly out of the spindle? Then loosen the bolts some more . . . pull out some more?

Are there any O-rings or seals that need to be replaced? Also, is there a difference regarding wheel clearance between the two versions of the Total Chaos gussets (sway bar retaining and sway bar eliminating)?