Apex/Cali Raised - LED and Mount Group Buy - CLOSED

Could be an FJ40 at least.

 

Lol, ya know I didn't even think about that.

Little edit job, how's this?

 

Nice!

 

Looks killer!

 

So I've had mine in the garage for several days, dreading the install. I think I might give it a go tomorrow. Is it possible to hook it up directly to the battery using the relay and a mictuning switch but not tap any factory wires? I really don't want to cut into anything, mainly because I'm color blind.

 

I can do a full install in less than an hour. Get a helper and you will be just fine! Hardest part is putting the bolts in the LED because it's an awkward position.

You can easily connect everything from the harness to the battery before install to make sure it's working good. If you are doing the MicTuning mod to the harness all you are tapping is the illumination so the switch lights up with your dash lights. That will not stop you from doing a function check of the rest of the harness. I suggest you go back and reread the wiring threads to make sure you understand what you are doing there.

 

I purchased this upgraded harness, but haven't even opened the box on anything yet. I think if I leave the wire next to the ground unhooked, that I can just run the positive and negative to the switch. I don't care if it lights up

Here's the harness:

OPT7 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness 14 Gauge 380W Wiring Harness w/Switch - 11ft Dimmer Strobe 80ft Range Plug and Play Waterproof Relay

https://www.amazon.com/OPT7-Offroad-Light-wiring-Harness/dp/B00K1NS0PS

 

Not being there in person I think you are correct. The main pos and neg should get the job done.

 

Received my replacement harness the other day and got it all working yesterday. Very pleased withe the service I received. Thank you

 

If you leave the one unhooked next to the ground, you will not have to tap any wires on the dash. It will still light up when the switch is in the on position, it just won't light up with the dash. That's only a 3amp switch and the OPT7 harness is wired from the factory incorrectly. It will work as is electrically, but basically it isn't using the relay and running full amperage to the switch. I attempted to explain it a page or so back. It's a decent harness, it just isn't doing out of the box what people think it's doing. The Caliraised harness is doing the same thing...

 

@michaelhaynie So what's my fix to utilize the relay correctly? I have the light wired into a Blue Sea aux fuse box on a 15a fuse. AOB switch which is 3a I believe, no power for dash lights. That AOB center console switch wasn't cheap and don't want to burn it up as well other potential stuff.

Is it as simple as disconnecting the piggybacked wire at the relay going to the 12v source (pin 30)? I did notice the two red wires going into the relay, one larger than the other. The smaller one I'm assuming is the piggyback for the switch.

Thanks for the heads up on the harness.

 

Yep, the small wire is the switch piggyback. I would clip that because the relay needs power to give power. So, to do it right, you need to wire the switch into 12v that's regulated. I simply used a Tap-a-fuse from the fuse panel under the drivers side dash. Those are all all regulated, so you don't need to clip anything, just plug in the tap a fuse, and wire that into the green wire on the switch. Pin 30 on the relay will be from battery direct (as I recall that was plugged in opposite as well on the OPT7, but I moved mine to pin 30. On the Caliraised harness, Pin 30 is wired to hot and the jumper for the switch is there too (it's the small one) . Switch Red 1 will go to pin 86 or 85, depending on which pole is grounded. The other one will go to ground and you are good to go.

Just get rid of that jumper to the switch and wire 12v regulated to the switch. That way, you are isolating the switch and not running all the amperage direct...which is the whole point of the relay. If you have a test light, or an ohm meter handy, it's easy to tell what is connected and what isn't. Thus, you should NOT have connectivity between the battery wire and the switch power with the relay connected. If you test it now from the factory, you will...not ideal in my mind.

 

The install isn't bad. I'm mechanically challenged and did it by myself. Hardest part for me was getting the light down between the brackets. A second set of hands would help but not necessary. Just took a little longer. Can't help with the wiring as I used the supplied switch. No wires to tap. I eventually plan on getting a more factory looking switch.

Great mount. Perfect fit and rock solid. I can't stand shaky lights. Pleased with the light output.

 

How'd you get the wires through the firewall?

 

I cut the nipple on the main wiring grommet and taped the wires to a stiff piece of wire and pushed them through.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-and-flush-styles.406017/page-4#post-11492373

 

@michaelhaynie Thank you for the instructions/clarifications!

I want this wired correct so I don't have problems down the road. Currently everything is working fine with the supplied CaliRaised harness and the AOB switch but need to make this change for piece of mind. I'm learning this basic electrical stuff. I understand the purpose/function of a relay and what your stating makes sense, the relay should operate and do its job as intended to.

I can't believe more folks here are not questioning the way the harness is set up. But like I said it works as is and probably just fine for most. Time will tell I guess. Thanks again.

 

Mine doesn't have a nipple, but I can tell what you are talking about because there's another wire running through that exact spot. I have an offroad, must have something to do w/that/

 

I have used the Cali Raised harness in my 4Runner for over a year with zero issues. I am not a wiring guru but I have learned over time that like fabricating, or guns, or any of these things there are opinions that go in many directions. The industry standard is to do it the way Cali Raised/OPT7/MicTuning do and I am sure there is a reason. Plus these LEDs and not like the halogen/HID lights of the past and don't use nearly as much power. I am very confident that the harness in its stock form will do the job as advertised, so don't be scared to use them as they come.

Now with that said there are always better ways to do things. Some people want more than standard levels of security or above industry standard methods. I think the advise above is great and if you are inclined enough it's worth your time. In my dedicated Tacoma I have a very complex wiring system with various layers of relay and fuse protection along with power disconnects and circuit breakers on the entire electrical system. I paid a pretty penny for the setup and I am glad I have it. After all, a free harness is just that, free. It's not going to save the world haha

 

Chris, thanks for your comments!

 

I was concerned about this since the AOB switch I used is rated at 3 amps... so I got out my multimeter. Measured at the main fuse with the fuse removed is 10amps. Measured at my switch plug with the switch removed is .14 amps. It seems to me that the relay is operating exactly as intended and there is no need to modify the harness.