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ARB CKMTA12 Install

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016+)' started by OdiN1701, Jun 10, 2017.

  1. Jun 10, 2017 at 1:22 PM
    #1
    OdiN1701

    OdiN1701 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I got the compressor installed this weekend using the Slee Offroad bracket.

    A couple notes on the install to help. The bracket is a little bit of a pain to get in because you have to have the compressor already mounted to it. The support leg can't be tightened down until it's in the engine bay either unless you pre-install the bracket and mark where it needs to be, but I find having it loose made it easier to get everything in. Slee has good photos of the install. Having smaller hands would help. Mine are pretty big so it was a pain.

    Here's the compressor installed, along with a relief vale and quick connect with dust cover:

    upload_2017-6-10_13-53-19.jpg

    This is a Bostitch BTFP72320 quick connect and here is the relief valve.

    I used this NPT Tee from Lowes.

    The dust cover for the quick connect is here: Parker 5209-4M

    One of the air filter cover snaps is quite close to the screw in filter. Here's a photo, sorry it's a bit blurry:

    upload_2017-6-10_13-55-41.jpg


    One thing that will help is to remove the air filter and push the cover to the side. This helps with getting the support leg bolts tightened on both supports:

    upload_2017-6-10_13-56-49.jpg

    Now, since I was only going to use this for airing up tires for the moment, I didn't need all of the wiring that was included. There is a harness for the main power/ground connections as well as a harness that connects to the on/off switch on the compressor, but which has split outs for air locker solenoids.

    The way I wired it was this:

    Main harness - 2 positive lines to the battery directly (inline 40A fuses), and the grounds to the ground point attached to body near the battery.

    For the on/off, ARB says it needs to be fused to at minimum 8A. I didn't want this line going into the cab and ARB never answered inquiries asking for more details. So I run the on/off from a relay.

    Secondary harness - purple wire to main output on relay (pin 30), ground wire to a ground.

    Relay:

    Pin 87 to battery with inline 10A fuse.
    Pin 85 to ground.
    Pin 86 power from switch inside cab.

    To wire the main harness, I wired ring terminals to each of the positive leads, combined both grounds as one wire is tiny and put a ring terminal on that wire as well. These were crimped and soldered. I wrapped the two grounds together with electrical tape.

    upload_2017-6-10_14-3-56.jpg


    Both harnesses were ran through wire loom and zip tied to existing wiring along the firewall using extreme temp zip ties since it gets both very cold here and hot in an engine bay.

    upload_2017-6-10_14-6-0.jpg

    To hold the relay, I got a Rago Fab relay holder. I wasn't very thrilled with it. Very thin metal but I guess that's good as I had to bend the prongs out to make it work.

    upload_2017-6-10_14-7-25.jpg

    The relay harness wires were also put in wire loom for cleanliness and protection from any rubbing and the elements. Connections to other sources were with m/f connectors crimped/soldered on and wrapped with electrical tape. These guys:
    [​IMG]


    For the switch in the panel you need four connections. I used this switch.

    Ground
    Dash Illumination
    Power Input
    Power Output (To Relay)

    This photo shows where the ground is that I used. Aftermarket alarm system had put a screw in for ground, so just loosened and added a connection there.

    upload_2017-6-10_14-9-56.jpg

    For dash illumination I used the green wire on the cargo bed lights switch. I had read about that one on here. My neighbor was out working on his cars today and he had a test light so I confirmed the connections first. I used a posi tap to connect to this source, but I didn't get a picture of it.

    For power input, I found two wires that would work for having power while ignition or accessory is on. These are also large enough that I am not worried about a tiny extra power draw to run a relay.

    These are located in this connector in the drivers side kick panel.

    The bottom two green colored wires in this top right connector are on with accessory/ignition:

    upload_2017-6-10_14-15-38.jpg

    I'm not sure what they are for, I need to find a wiring diagram but if anyone knows it would be at least nice to know.

    Here is the posi tap installed:

    upload_2017-6-10_14-16-23.jpg

    The wire from here runs to the switch to the green wire (#1 below).

    upload_2017-6-10_14-17-0.jpg

    I ran a wire through the main wiring harness boot from the engine bay into the cab and this connects to #2 above. #3 is dash illumination and #4 ground.

    Here's the switch installed with the dash lights on:

    upload_2017-6-10_14-18-52.jpg

    One other note:

    Use zip ties to not only secure wiring inside the cab so you don't catch it with your foot or anything, but also for stress relief so nothing will be pulling on a posi tap for example.
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2017
  2. Jun 10, 2017 at 1:41 PM
    #2
    erok81

    erok81 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for posting this! I'm just about to install mine. I cheaper out thinking I could save 120 and just figure out the mount. But I'll probably just order the same.

    I was going to pre-wire it all today though. So I'll follow what you did. :cool:
     
  3. Jun 10, 2017 at 2:39 PM
    #3
    OdiN1701

    OdiN1701 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It's kinda pricey for the mount but it does work well.
     
  4. Jun 10, 2017 at 3:09 PM
    #4
    climbhigher23

    climbhigher23 Well-Known Member

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    Not 100% sure what those are but that is the harness with your door locks that goes through the boot into the door. If I had to guess I'd say they are probably for your power windows or mirrors if they truly do test as accessory. Nothing else comes to mind that would run acc in your door.
     
  5. Jun 10, 2017 at 5:02 PM
    #5
    blackrifle76

    blackrifle76 Well-Known Member

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  6. Jun 10, 2017 at 5:11 PM
    #6
    Pushincaskets

    Pushincaskets Well-Known Member

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    Nice job, one note for the switch, if you want to make it dimmable, you will have to pull the green w/stripe wire for the ground instead of grounding the switch to chassis.
     
    john_lim and Friedtacolover like this.
  7. Jun 10, 2017 at 5:12 PM
    #7
    ajsabra

    ajsabra Fully locked 3rd gen

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    Front suspension : Extended travel Kings with Total Chaos UCAS Rear suspension : Deaver progressive AAL w/out overload & Kings Rims : SCS SR8 17" Tires : Bfg KO2s 285/70/R17 ARB Compressor ARB Lockers front and rear with 4.88 gears Nitro 4.88 Gears TRD Pro Grill, and fogs Headlight BHLM Rigid Radiance 32 stealth mounted.
    Nice I ordered the slee bracket last week, cant wait till it gets here.

    Did you figure out a way to make the switch dim with others because I just wired up my switches to my relays and if I use the illumation - tan wire instead of my ground; i get no power to my relays, but dimming works fine. If i replace the illumination tan wire and use my ground, i get power to my relay but no dimming.

    EDIT: I forgot to mention the illumination wires im using are off the bed/cargo light switch. So the green + and tan -.
     
  8. Jun 10, 2017 at 5:12 PM
    #8
    Joe23

    Joe23 Canuckistikian

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    nice stuff.
    I had the same compressor from my jeep but sold it when I got the taco.
    Was going to put it in the taco but I plan to put a battery in that same location and there's not many other places to mount it without sacrificing a lot of space.

    Great compressor otherwise.
     
  9. Jun 10, 2017 at 5:16 PM
    #9
    Pushincaskets

    Pushincaskets Well-Known Member

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    Same as I listed above. For dimming in our trucks run the switch illumination using a currently dimmed circuit, maybelike vsc switch or others you might have one not used. Take the green wire for illumination power and the green with stripe for ground. Connect the main power normally to ACC and the relay wire out to you relay. This will give you dimming.

    Dimming is done on the grounding leg so if you did not use the green wStripe that's why you don't have dimming.
     
  10. Jun 10, 2017 at 5:18 PM
    #10
    ajsabra

    ajsabra Fully locked 3rd gen

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    Front suspension : Extended travel Kings with Total Chaos UCAS Rear suspension : Deaver progressive AAL w/out overload & Kings Rims : SCS SR8 17" Tires : Bfg KO2s 285/70/R17 ARB Compressor ARB Lockers front and rear with 4.88 gears Nitro 4.88 Gears TRD Pro Grill, and fogs Headlight BHLM Rigid Radiance 32 stealth mounted.
    Where are these wires your talking about? I was using the cargo/bed light switch.
     
  11. Jun 10, 2017 at 5:19 PM
    #11
    Pushincaskets

    Pushincaskets Well-Known Member

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    The cargo bed switch will have a green wire and a green with stripe. All our switches have these two, that is the power and dimming ground.
     
    climbhigher23 likes this.
  12. Jun 10, 2017 at 5:20 PM
    #12
    ajsabra

    ajsabra Fully locked 3rd gen

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    Okay so I was using the wrong wire, got it. Someone of the forums said the tan wire was the other one. I gotta try that out tonight, when I get off of work.
    Thanks your a life saver, that was going to bother the shit out of me.
     
  13. Jun 10, 2017 at 5:23 PM
    #13
    ajsabra

    ajsabra Fully locked 3rd gen

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    Front suspension : Extended travel Kings with Total Chaos UCAS Rear suspension : Deaver progressive AAL w/out overload & Kings Rims : SCS SR8 17" Tires : Bfg KO2s 285/70/R17 ARB Compressor ARB Lockers front and rear with 4.88 gears Nitro 4.88 Gears TRD Pro Grill, and fogs Headlight BHLM Rigid Radiance 32 stealth mounted.
    Actually I went back to the post and I don't see another green on there...
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Jun 10, 2017 at 5:27 PM
    #14
    Pushincaskets

    Pushincaskets Well-Known Member

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    Take the tan one to your new switch ground
     
  15. Jun 10, 2017 at 5:30 PM
    #15
    Pushincaskets

    Pushincaskets Well-Known Member

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    Third gens must have green and tan. 2 gems have green and green with tan stripe. In any case you need to use both for the illumination loop on the bottom of the new switch. The top gets its power as the acc passes through to the relay when switch is engaged. Both top and bottom leds should dim in this scenario.
     
  16. Jun 10, 2017 at 5:30 PM
    #16
    ajsabra

    ajsabra Fully locked 3rd gen

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    Yeah, I did that, the dimming works but no power to relay when switch is pressed. Mayyyyybbbbeeee my t-tap splice didnt make a good connection.... I'll run a continuity test on it and see, I hope it works.
     
  17. Jun 10, 2017 at 6:00 PM
    #17
    OdiN1701

    OdiN1701 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I didn't care about dimming. I don't dim them.
     
  18. Jun 10, 2017 at 6:09 PM
    #18
    OdiN1701

    OdiN1701 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thought you could do side by side batteries in the 3rd gen? If I ever do that, I can always move the compressor.
     
  19. Jun 10, 2017 at 6:19 PM
    #19
    ajsabra

    ajsabra Fully locked 3rd gen

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    That's what I've seen side by side
     
  20. Jun 10, 2017 at 7:11 PM
    #20
    Joe23

    Joe23 Canuckistikian

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    you can, but I plan on the offgrid engineering kit that puts the battery in that location. I don't really like the side by side one.
     

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