Arbitration didn't go well..........

Op you said earlier that you doubt they will send a team out to fight the lemon case. I doubt they won't. Toyota corp is ridiculous about listening and will do whatever they have to to keep from buying that truck back.

And buy back vs buy out.

Buy back = they refund your money basically plus plus.
Buy out = they make you a "fair to them" offer

 

I went to 2 different dealerships to trade for an access cab. Was offered 1K under rough book price. My truck is like new. So much for great resale.

 

Here's bldegle2's fix

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/273640-vibrations.html

So.... you used the wrong CSB, and mounted it incorrectly...

On a 1st gen

I don't think this would help the OP's case if Toyota looks into it and sees the wrong part installed incorrectly. Even if it does fix it for a while and then later he takes his truck in for warranty work on some part on the driveline it could end up not going well.

 

And to the OP, Good luck with this. It would be a nightmare for me to have to deal with any of this, being that they don't support Tacomas at the Toyota dealerships in the UK

 

Keep in mind that "buy back" includes you paying $.10/mile for every mile driven, buy out I believe is just giving you money to go away and live with the issue.

 

Thanks for clarifying the BB vs BO. As far as "them" not sending a team to dispute the claim, hopeful thinking on my part...absolutely.

Some information I have found regarding lemon law claims stating the manufacturers will usually start negotiating after receiving a letter from an attorney to avoid a hearing.

It's not a process or activity that we look forward to at all, but it's not a life changing event and we are done getting worked up about it. We'll have a sit down with the attorney, review our docs, including the findings from the recent arbitration and go from there.

If the attorney thinks we have a case, we'll move forward, if not.. we'll come up with a new plan.

 

Newlife, Our definitions differ here but that is OK. Where I was going with the buy out over buy back comment was based off the paper work I went through with Nissan.

The Buy back was for $18K, or a 2wd base, after paying near $27K for the Pro4X. Buy out covered all costs including 6 months of a rental vehicle, taxes & title, out of pocket expenses, and a little extra getting my family into a new vehicle. I can not say the exact amount as per the settlement but it covered a new Tacoma with the off road package, taxes and title and most likely first year or two of fuel.

You are right that most companies will do what ever it takes to cut their losses even at the expense of ONE consumer. When they recognize you will not back off and the issue keeps coming up then it is cheaper to take care of the problem.

 

From what I read while researching the BB/BO, TN lemon Law states that only a portion of the mileage has to be paid for by us if they BB truck and that portion is limited to mileage stated on the first work order pertaining to the issue. For us, that was less than 200 mi.

 

Actually, that is really confusing. Sounds like you did well on the deal, guess that is the most important thing.

 

Your never going to get "great" resale on trading in a brand new truck that is less than one year old. The dealership isn't going to buy it back unless they can make some kind of profit on re-selling it. If you keep your truck for 5+ years and keep it in great shape, then you will get great resale value.

Just curious but how much did you pay for your truck before tax/title/license, and what did they offer you or how much was 1k under rough book price?

There are articles out by KBB, Edmunds, torqnews, fool, wallstcheatsheet, and pickuptrucks.com this year all ranking the 2014 Tacoma as the 2nd highest resale value of all vehicles on the road cars & trucks! 2nd only to the FJ Cruiser:

2. Toyota Tacoma

Toyota’s smaller workhorse is good for 73.7 percent of its original price after three years, and after five years of use, it can still command 61.9 percent of the MSRP.

http://wallstcheatsheet.com/stocks/...-value-for-2014.html/?a=viewall#ixzz39cpBDHi1


#2: 2014 Toyota Tacoma


A legendary workhorse that's equally eager on the weekends, the Toyota Tacoma is perhaps unbeatable when it comes to long-term utility per dollar.

Resale Value

• at 36 months: 73.7%
• at 60 months: 61.9%

http://www.kbb.com/new-cars/best-resale-value-awards/best-resale-top-10-cars/



Toyota Tundra and Tacoma have best retained value of all pickups
oyota Tundra and Tacoma have best retained value of all pickups - See more at: http://www.torquenews.com/1083/toyo...tained-value-all-pickups#sthash.t1DBLEpU.dpuf

http://www.torquenews.com/1083/toyota-tundra-and-tacoma-have-best-retained-value-all-pickups


2. Toyota Tacoma: resale value at 36 months (73.7%) / 60 months (61.9%)
Yet again, another Toyota vehicle in the top six! Like the previous Toyota models, the historic reputation of Toyota is what appears to drive the value of these vehicle down at a much slower pace over the long term. With few frills added, the Tacoma is simply a reliable midsize truck that consumers can drive the wheels off of without worrying too much about repairs or gas mileage.

http://www.fool.com/investing/gener...dels-with-the-highest-resale-value-youll.aspx
​

 

That wont be for long. They're started to get dated and all i see on the road now is f150 ecoboosts...wait till the new ranger pops up.

 

I don't see it changing anytime soon:

1) You see more F150's because Ford sells around 4 or 5x as many F150s as Toyota sells Tacomas and has done so for the last 10 years. Tacomas are maybe somewhere around 150,000 trucks sold a year, while F150s are somewhere around 650,000 trucks sold a year. Both had significant decreases in sales from those numbers during 08 - 11 obviously.

2) A lot of the high Tacoma resale value is related to not getting huge discounts and incentives up front, when you buy the truck. As well as the reliability reputation of the company.

3) The Ranger is most likely not coming back. With the pricing of the F150s, it's priced out of the equation at this point. Unless they make it significantly cheaper than the version that is currently being sold to the rest of the world.

 

I've had a vibration on my fj since I bought it. I'm used to it. Over the year I've added more vibrations by bending a wheel. Never bugs me because I bought a Toyota and not a Lexus or land cruiser. Sometimes I think I should have bought a gx470. One day I'll get a gx and Turn it into an EXPO truck.

 

remery829

To further expand on my posting from back in early 2013, here goes...

First of all, I did not recommend that the OP get the other support bearing (there are two that will fit both 1st and 2nd gens), he is going to use the existing bearing that his truck came with....the two piece driveshaft with the double cardone joint has not changed in design between the two gens much, and they use the same diameter center support bearing, actually the same bearing I believe...

As far as me using the HB31 versus the HB26 was a mistake on my part (again, going for the cheap because of budget woes), however, if you visit Rock Auto you will see either bearing is offered for the same application for my year of manufacture....both carrier bearings work, but there is a different offset from the mounting flanges, by me flipping the HB31, it better matched the offset of the correct bearing....I live on a very limited income, so I was trying to save some cash and went that direction...

Now, to further explain why I siliconed the bearing, I finally went out and purchased a very expensive HB26 bearing, installed it and STILL had the same vibration, this after living with the vibes for over two years, so I returned it and stuck with the perfectly good HB31 I previously had in the truck and still had the vibration, I was very frustrated....so, using some of my brain matter, I applied a trick we used for front wheel drive 4 bangers, the upper support motor mount (also called the torque mount) would fail and sag causing all sorts of problems....back when I was racing those types of cars, we would inject silicone into those upper mounts, let it set and dry for three days, install them and the sagging and related vibration went away, it was the cheap fix versus a much more expensive part (remember, I was on a tight budget)...I also had a 62 Chevy Impala that had a very similar two piece driveshaft setup with a wimpy center support bearing, I was always tearing them up, it always vibrated, especially after I installed a built 396 with scads more horsepower than the original 348/409 that came in these cars...injection solved that problem too...a one piece driveshaft would work, but the Chevy's back in those days was an xframe with a tunnel so a 1 piece would work if you only went in a straight line, like drag racing, cornering with body roll and the shaft would rub the tunnel...the one piece driveshaft I used when drag racing was from a 65 Pontiac GTO with a chevy front yoke to match the spines on the tranny output shaft, the universal joints were the same, fortunately..

So, using all my previous experience I decided WTF, it has to work on the Taco's carrier bearing, I had tried everything else I could think of already short of spending $400 to $700 for a one piece driveshaft...this included having the driveshaft checked for runout and out of balance...

Amazingly, after siliconing the carrier bearing and letting it dry for three days (there is an awful lot of silicone injected, it takes awhile to cure), I reinstalled the fixed wrong bearing and haven't looked back...smooth and still is...

No, I am not an ASE mechanic, but I have 50 years experience wrenching various cars over the years, from drag racing to autocross, always on a tight budget...this solution is the culmination of many years of PRACTICAL experience and backyard application...

Take if for what its worth, someday I will replace the cheap $30 wrong bearing with another bearing, and it will be siliconed too...Toyota's design is lacking, the carrier bearing needs more beef because of the weight of the double cardone and its proximity to the carrier bearing...the silicone offers mega support but still allows a little bit of flex that is needed with this design...

So there you have it....I expect I will be ridiculed regarding the fix...I can tell you this, it works, it is cheap...

For those that have the vibes and been to the dealer and gotten nothing but lip service, maybe even considered spending a huge amount on a one piece, this is the solution...it is simple and costs nothing but a tube of silicone and some time..

So there you have it...

I am waiting anxiously for Ken to report back when he has applied the fix...there is another member that is doing the same thing to his Tacoma and I am waiting to hear back on his success...

Let the ridicule flow, I don't give a shit...

Peace, out...

 

Yes... you are a ridicules old man , stop trying to compete in a young man's world with you're outdated , hillbilly fixes..........







I got yer back Pops....

 

LOL, glad to hear you got my back...

Sometimes age and experience trumps youthful enthusiasm....

I moved here from California 4 years ago, so I am a transplanted hillybilly...

and again silence reigns, just like with my thread back in 2013....burp...

 

Hey Dennis,
I p/u the silicone today, will try to pull the CB and perform the injection tomorrow. I will not be using our oven to speed up the cure time, it's a propane fired unit and the fumes from the silicone are flammable (possible Darwin award?). So I should be ok to re-install Sunday.. maybe early next week would be a safer bet.

Thanks,
Ken

 

Truth be told, my wife isn't crazy about truck parts in the oven.. pff

I'll keep it in the rafters of our un-insulated garage, should keep it nice and warm for a few days.

 

dumb.

 

I'd have driven the truck off a bridge and claimed insurance by now.