Ask a Plumber.

what you're talking about is the red thing in the upper right corner yeah?

 

yeah. in my google searching i saw that was an option. can you please elaborate on what you're talking about cartridges?

 

possibly missing a check valve where the hot return ties back into the cold before the heater? and holy flex lines batman!

 

Yes. That looks like a recirc pump. Can't tell from the picture if theres a check valve to keep the circulated hot water from going back up the cold.
Can you tell if the pump is working?

 

no clue... seems like all that stuff is up in the attic because there's very little right next to the water heater. i haven't had a chance to climb up there a scope things out

how can i check and see if it's working? there's actually a lot of gunk build up on it... maybe a sign its been KIA?

 

That pump, change it.

The check is probably stuck open... and you're slowly leaking at the spindle.

 

yeah, had a feeling it would need replacing as soon as i saw that crap on there.

any suggestions on an inexpensive, reliable replacement?

 

This is an interesting thread! It gave me an idea to have one to help TWers with irrigation problems or questions: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/of...ask-irrigator-sprinklers-drip-irrigation.html

 

If you change the pump You might not even need as big of a pump as you currently have depending on how big your house is.. There is no check valve there definitely add one. It should be on the cold line behind the expansion tank. You might also want to think about strapping that expansion tank..(the little white tank behind the pump). I can draw you a nice little diagram of how it should be 2m morning if that would help.

 

My dad is out of the office for the day but if you wait till 2m I can give you a link to an inexpensive pump we use all the time.

Edit oh yea forgot to explain cartridges.. So basically those are the things inside of shower valves (not sure if single lever faucets have them too?) and they basically help you control volume/temperature. They also usually have little screens to catch sediment etc. they are removable from the valve so you can change them when they go bad.

 

In this picture, in that little space between the copper pipe and the pump, with the expansion tank in the background... That looks like the top of a check valve. Your check valve could be bad and would be cheap and easy to replace (if you can solder)

As far as the pump, a little taco (brand) shouldn't be very expensive and would work just fine. All you really need for re-circulation is a little trickle.
In fact, if piped right, I've seen recirc lines work without a pump at all using natural convection.

 

This guy knows what he's talking about.^ I didn't see the top of the check at first but now I do. I honestly don't know the answer to this but could the placement of the check valve matter?? (Bottom drawing is how it's currently setup)



Occasionally we will run into a house with a working gravity recirc line but that shit is rare. I've seen maybe 1 or 2 that worked.

 

It's hard to tell from the pictures but it does look like your check valve is installed in the wrong place. The check valve prevents flow in one direction. Placed as shown in the bottom diagram, it would prevent cold water from flowing back through the recirc line (not an issue as it would also have to overcome the pump)
In the top diagram it would prevent hot water from flowing back through the cold line which is the problem you seem to be having.
I've seen installations with a check valve in both locations.
If you add a check valve, be aware that a swing check (the type it looks like you have) must be installed in a horizontal pipe. If you need to put a check valve in vertical piping, you'll need a spring loaded check valve.

 

nelson18matt Just a couple of quick observations about the franken job that is your water heater install.

The big white thing near the back wall is an expansion tank and appears to be only supported by the piping. It's crooked. That's a big no-no as it could weaken the nearest soldered joint(s). You'll need to support it somehow and this is one option I can get through my local plumbing supply house,

It's called an Mounting kit for 5 gal expansion tank and should run you $15-20 or so.

Where's the shutoff for the incoming cold water? Is it on the on the side of the wall from the circ pump? Normally it would located nearer where the cold water enters the tank, usually with 12" or so.

The pipe that comes off the top of the tank and exits through the wall in the left of your pic. Where does it go? That is the T&P relief valve (Temperature & Pressure)/ It releases water that too hot, +210F, or pressure build up (typically around 150psi). The reason I'm asking is because looking that your water I'd that in no phase of that install was a certified plumber involved. It looks hacked together. First clue is the 6 pieces of duct used used to make the flue go ~3' from the top of the WH to the ceiling. I could go on, but it's time for lights out.

Didn't to sh*t all over you, just that install looks like hell in it's own pretty alcove.

 

^^^ thanks for the help!

 

Seat in shower is frozen - put the seat tool in and wrench with a lot of pressure - afraid to put a cheater on the wrench and F up the seat completely and have to remove tile and replace fixture. Sprayed some WD40 - replaced the washer and put it back together. Doesn't leak but I would like to do the job the right way. Any reply appreciated.

Just to state the obvious - water hard - full of minerals - white cement like shite on stem, handle etc. Thanks.

 

I usually replace but since it's yours try and tighten slowly to break it loose then loosen. And an easy out on an extension. CLR it but flush it good after. Be careful you could end up with the water off longer than anticipated.
Is this the only restroom?

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I did try "tighten slowly to break it loose" It didn't budge. Since I have the correct seat tool and the female of the seat is in good shape - is there a reason for the easy out which would F up the female hex ? I will spray it with CLR. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

If the seat strips out then try easy out. If you still have a good bite then keep tapping on it with hammer and give it hell.

Galvanized pipes?

 

No - copper. First time U mentioned "tapping on it with hammer" Am I tapping on the end of the seat tool to vibrate it and get the CLR into the treads or am I tapping the wrench in a CCW direction. Thanks.