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Ask the Electrician

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by Alexb03, Jan 6, 2012.

  1. Jul 22, 2012 at 11:42 AM
    #81
    Saskquatch11

    Saskquatch11 TRUCK YEAH

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    I can honestly say I've never used or even seen one of those.

    edit: upon a searching, it's purpose is to prevent the breaker from accidentally being shut off. the breaker will still trip even if the handle is locked in the on position.
     
  2. Jul 22, 2012 at 11:54 AM
    #82
    ImpulseRed008

    ImpulseRed008 Gone But Not Forgotten

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    OEM SS tube steps, Access LE tonneau cover, pop n'lock, AVS in-channel vent visors, stubby antenna, Wet Okole seat covers, bed mat, rear diff breather mod, 4 extra d rings in bed, K&N air filter.
    :thumbsup: thanks Squishy
     
  3. Jul 22, 2012 at 12:08 PM
    #83
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Ditto... That, and it can function as a "Joe Homeowner" lockout.
    When working on the circuit, slip the hoop over the handles and it'll prevent the wife from energizing it.

    Commercial electrical requires a physical lock and tag warning that the circuit is being worked on.
     
  4. Jul 22, 2012 at 12:15 PM
    #84
    ImpulseRed008

    ImpulseRed008 Gone But Not Forgotten

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    Or prevent the BOY FRIEND from energizing it :cool:
     
  5. Jul 22, 2012 at 12:20 PM
    #85
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    True true....


    My wife used to build seeker heads for the Sidewinder missile.
    Today, she wouldn't be able to pick up a soldering iron without getting burned.
     
  6. Jul 22, 2012 at 12:23 PM
    #86
    Palooka

    Palooka Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, You see those a lot in commercial applications... IE. essential services like fire pumps or emergency phone systems.
     
  7. Jul 23, 2012 at 1:34 PM
    #87
    newfie8

    newfie8 Well-Known Member

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    newfoundland
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    Tinted windows all around. Fog lights. Intermittent wiper switch. Skid plate. Extra D rings. Grillcraft. Color matched grill. Hella 500ff HID behind grillcraft. Rcbs204 Lighting. 5100's up front. 265/75/16 Duratracs.Firestone riderites. Bora Wheel spacers. Tinted tails. De badged. Blacked out rims.
    Ok thanks guys I had to ask! Guess I'll run a new wire in there. Not a stranger to plastering so it won't be that bad.
     
  8. Dec 4, 2012 at 11:08 AM
    #88
    DEEVON911

    DEEVON911 Semi-pro

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    Bethel Park, PA. Burb of the Burgh.
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    I kind of have a dumb question. What makes, say an extension cord ok for outdoor use? What's the difference between one for outdoor use, and one only for indoor?
     
  9. Dec 4, 2012 at 11:16 AM
    #89
    xJuice

    xJuice My spoon is too Big!

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    The insulation on the outdoor should be more durable to better protect from the elements. Also might have some resistance to oil and such.
     
  10. Dec 4, 2012 at 11:25 AM
    #90
    tls01taco

    tls01taco Well-Known Member

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  11. Dec 4, 2012 at 11:27 AM
    #91
    DEEVON911

    DEEVON911 Semi-pro

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    Bethel Park, PA. Burb of the Burgh.
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    TRD Cat-back Exhaust. Semi-Debadged. Shorty 8 in. Antenna. Weathertech vent visors. TRD FJ Cruiser Center Cap Wheel Mod. Nitto Terra Grapplers. Inverter tapped into for outlet in cab. Tacomaworld sticker which adds 5 hp.
    That makes sense. Thanks.
     
  12. Dec 4, 2012 at 7:11 PM
    #92
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Don't fall for:

    Wire stretcher
    Conduit stretcher
    Wire bender
    Stud spanner

    And a "hickey" actually IS a tool ;)
     
  13. Dec 4, 2012 at 7:40 PM
    #93
    StaticFilter

    StaticFilter Well-Known Member

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    Lifted, N-Fab steps, Roof rack light bar, Grill guard, Volant Snorkel (not installed ye)
    and don't fall for "chin nuts" :)
     
  14. Dec 4, 2012 at 7:49 PM
    #94
    Saskquatch11

    Saskquatch11 TRUCK YEAH

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    ...and always keep a bucket near by to catch the volt drop.
     
  15. Dec 4, 2012 at 7:54 PM
    #95
    CoTacoTRD

    CoTacoTRD He who walk with a Cane

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    A little of this and a little of that.
    Alright gents
    Looking to do a box upgrade from 100amp to 250amp this spring(2013). Looking for a solid reliable electrician to do this along with the other options I want to include in this upgrade. Located in the Denver area. PM me if you, or if you know someone that you would recommend here in Denver to do this work. My plan is to take 3 bids and weigh the options. Here is what I am looking to do:

    250amp box
    Sub-panel in the Garage with additional outlets and 220v outlet
    Exterior LED can lights under eves for security. Wired back to a timer switch
    Exterior quad outlet for gutter hot wire and Xmas lights
    Line conditioner/surge protector at box
    House was built in the 60's so original wiring is AL. I had an Alumiconn fix done when I bought but would like to pull back major rooms (I.E. Kitchen, bathrooms) in copper to box. Need some opinions on this. Is it really needed? How bad is AL wiring really?

    This is all I have considered so far. Shoot some holes in my plans and let me know what or what not I should really do. It is not something I can do myself but do not want to get screwed with the price. Based on the above work what am I looking at spending?

    Thanks in advance for the info.!
     
  16. Dec 4, 2012 at 8:07 PM
    #96
    Saskquatch11

    Saskquatch11 TRUCK YEAH

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    aluminum's expansion coefficient is higher than copper's. expands under load and contracts when the load is turned off. this can cause loose connections and arcing which can cause in a fire.

    this is a receptacle that I took out of a garage about a year ago
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Dec 4, 2012 at 8:26 PM
    #97
    CoTacoTRD

    CoTacoTRD He who walk with a Cane

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    A little of this and a little of that.
    Yeap got that part hence the Alumiconn fix prior to purchase. So far has been legit. Are you familiar with this? As electricians is this a decent fix or really just a band aid and I should consider re-wiring the entire house?

    http://www.alcopstore.com/

    Was that an AL rated outlet? It does not appear to be but I am no expert.
     
  18. Dec 4, 2012 at 8:32 PM
    #98
    mattgecko

    mattgecko The Lighting guy

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    Nor-Cal (San Jose)
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    I want to run a wire from the truck battery to a trailer battery to charge it while I am driving. It will go through a switch and rely.

    What gauge wire do you recommend?

    Thanks in advance
    Matt
     
  19. Dec 4, 2012 at 8:34 PM
    #99
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Rewire.

    The connectors look like a fair band-aid to replace wire nuts, but it's not going to take care of the receptacles and other connections.

    Fair band-aid? If the screws loosen, you're back to the original problem.
     
  20. Dec 4, 2012 at 8:41 PM
    #100
    Rich91710

    Rich91710 Well-Known Member

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    Fixed that for you.

    High current calls for a contactor, not just a simple relay.
    Standard automotive relays are generally only 30-40 amps, meaning they should be fused at 25-30a and not run continuous at more than 20-25a.

    Your charge current COULD exceed that.... up to the output of the alternator sounds right, but it's not.
    If the battery is very low, when you hit the switch to engage it, it's going to yank some major current from the truck's battery... that inrush current could be a couple of hundred amps and it could remain fairly high for a while.

    There are battery isolation circuits built for slide-in campers that automatically charge when the truck is running, but limit the charge current to safe levels.
    I'd run one of those with either 2ga or single ought "0" due to the length of the run to the trailer.

    Don't forget... your ground needs to be the same size as your hot, and yes, you can use the frame, but tie the frame to the truck's battery in the engine compartment.
     
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