Assembled a fuse box and some switches

Finally finished wiring up a bussman 10 relay box and 12 switches.

I used a Iggy switch panel for the cubby in front of the shifter (auto).
http://iggycorp.com/accessories.php

I cut my sunglasses holder to fit another 6 switches.

All switches are from OTTRATW.
https://www.otrattw.net/

Box is a Bussmann 15401-2-0-1-0A RFRM.
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46354/Bussmann-15401-2-0-1-0A-RFRM-Panel-/

Mounting plate for bussman box from yotamac.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-blue-sea-systems-and-mounting-plates.294195/

Almost all of the connectors are Metri Pack 280. Although I did end up using a weather pack 6 pin for the sunglasses holder switch panel. Could have just used two metri 280 three pin connector, but I got it stuck in my head I wanted a 6 pin connector for some reason. Connectors were sources from waytek.
http://www.waytekwire.com/products/

Most of the wire came from wirebarn. I used 12g and 18g GXL.
http://www.wirebarn.com/

Going to install tomorrow. Hope I don't light my truck on fire!

 

That's the box that I would like to get but I have no idea how to wire it neatly.

Good job on the install.

 

If you wire the entire thing at once like I did, it is really hard to keep the whole thing neat. There are just so many wires. There are 40 wires coming off the box. The 20 that bridge the power and ground look pretty neat before the rest go in.

I don't have anything planned for 7 of those always hot red/black pairs, so I probably didn't have to wire them all in, but I didn't want to have to come back to it later. Without those it looks much neater.

 

I really wish i knew more about wiring. Looks really clean!

 

I didn't know anything before I started. It's one of those "it's less complicated than it looks" things.

 

Awesome job! That looks about as clean as you could hope for given the amount of wires involved. Looks professional

 

Beautiful

 

I tried to make it as modular as possible. It gets a little bulky with all the connectors but I like being able to just plug/unplug the whole thing.

All the metri pack 280 connectors came from waytek.
http://www.waytekwire.com/products/

The metri pack 280 series uses separate wire holders (male body + wire holder, female body + wire holder). With the 1 and 2 pin connectors it's not a big deal since they use the same wire holder, but the three pin uses a different wire holder for male and female.



Waytek has some weird minimum order requirements. I split an order with my brother who is going to use the 5 relay box for his 4runner.

 

UGH! maybe I will attempt it...

The box does not come with terminals correct? I would need terminal 12110845 for the 12gauge wire to attach to the box, correct?

 

Nope, no terminals are included with the box.

12110845 are the tangless. I used 12129493.

 

So you could just go with the 12077413 (which are the tanged terminals) without the housings I believe but for some reason you cant get the blue seals with that set.

 

If you don't want to deal with minimum orders, Delcity.net usually carries most if what waytek does and doesn't have minimums. Sometimes they are less than waytek, other times more...

 

I haven't ordered from them yet but it seems like this place doesn't do minimums either:

http://www.connectorconcepts.com/bu15rffuremo.html

 

I ended up using the grey seals 15324980 for my 12g and the 12129493 terminals because I wasn't sure the crimping tool would work on those 10-12 terminals. On the 12-14 terminals I am only using the second size on the crimper, so those terminals might work with the crimper.

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/533/CRIMPER-SEALED-METRI-PACK/

 

Sweet mother of god
Akes my fuse box look like poop

 

Ok, so am I correct in my thinking on this diagram?

Right lug positive (+)
Left lug negative (-)

Both are connected to the first rows of each side, respectively.

Relay Output:
2A -> 2E supplies + to relay
1G -> 1E supplies the - to relay
2C is for relay trigger
1C is for power output

Fused Output:
1A is for + output
2G is for - output

If this is all true, which fuse is protecting the fused output? Would it be F1 (left side on face)? What is supplying + to the right side fuses (on face)?

 

Looks awesome man! Thanks for grabbing a switch panel!

 

The first row on each side is not connected to anything until you fuse it. The fuse in A1 will complete the circuit from the positive bus to Column A. And the fuse in G1 will complete the circuit from G1 to the negative bus.

Using your diagram. With fuses in A1, A2, G1, G2.
Your relay would be fused at A2 and G1.
Your "fused output" is fused at A1 and G2.

I don't know if this will help or confuse. This is what I am using to keep track of my box and switches. There are some markings on this image that are specifically for helping me remember certain things about my install in particular. Please try to ignore most of it.

Below I marked how my relay gets power and ground. On "BOTTOM" made my E1 ground go to G2 so that the fuses will be on the same line (+A2, -G2). If you have it go from E1 to G1 then your negative fuse is on G1 and you positive fuse is on A2. I thought that might confuse me one day having to remember to stagger my fuse. So I just moved the relay ground to G2 instead. I did this all the way up my panel.



EDIT: Found a progress pic from before I hooked everything up.

 

Thanks so much for making those panels. It was really the final piece to the puzzle. I really didn't know where I was going to mount the rest of my switches. Then I saw your post and everything fell into place.

 

No way, that is pretty much all most people need. My box is overkill for the vast majority of people. Hell, it's overkill for me at the moment. I don't even have as many lights as I have switches. A couple of my switches are just prewired for future installs.