Audio system for 2017 double cab

Awesome! Good to hear. It also has speaker level inputs which is not a big deal but a plus.

 

Are these charts accurate as far as speaker color wires? Thanks!

 

Mine was not accurate at all. It is pretty simple to pull the radio out and double check becuase the plugs are the same. I actually checked mine by just pulling all door panels and writing down the colors. None were same as that pic sveryone swears by. Only ones i remember is rear left was white and white/black for me. I will note the speaker wires are the fatter ones when mixed in with the wire bundles under door seal panels ect. Makes them easy to find.

 

Ditto to what Friedtacolover said. The harness is the same shape and they use the same pins, but the colors weren't necessarily the same. When I tapped into the wires, I tapped into the thicker gauge wires located in Pins A, B, E, & F (I only tapped the front speakers and I let my sound processor create/control the rear channel signals for my amp).


Edit: Oh yeah, I also tapped the gray wire (ignition 12v - pin C) as the remote turn-on signal.

 

Ok thanks guys. My plan is to pull door panels since I am removing front 6x9 3-ways for 6x9 components. I am going to write down color of each speaker pos/neg wire. From there I am going to pull Head unit, find the colored wire and solder it from the metra harness to the speedwire. The amp I picked has speaker level inputs. From there it is making sure the correct wire goes to the designated spot at the amp (Front left neg/pos, rear right pos/neg etc).

 

If I remember correctly, it won't matter what color the speaker wire is at the door because it's not the color as it is at the back of the HU...but then again, I didn't really care so I only paid it half a mind.

Instead, I tapped the pink speakers wires behind the HU and ran the speedwire to the sound processor under my driver seat. From there, used RCA to the amp under the passenger seat. From the amp, I ran my own speaker wires to each door since I could use shorter and bigger gauge wires. Unfortunately, it was a big PITA to get those wires through each door grommet (easily tacked on another hour to my install).

 

So I really shouldnt worry about what color the wires are but pay more attention to the pins and tap in to those for front/rear speakers. A,B,E,F for fronts and K,L,M,P for rears.

 

the above diagram worked perfect for me for the location of the speaker wires from the head unit. at that point it comes to what the corresponding wire color is on the metra harness and connecting it to the speedwire

 

this

 

So this thread got way off track with our buddy david over here and I'm left still at square one. I am glad David is figuring out his system though. I am getting ready to start ordering things as I have to order the JL sub in the next couple of days to use my group buy coupon. I am still unclear on how hard it will be to build a harness that will allow me to retain my stock wiring out to the door speakers. I think I have gone off track with this build and kind of want to start at square one again.

SO my goal is to use the subaru tweeters and then add an amplifier that powers new door speakers and a subwoofer. I am almost wondering if I shouldn't simplify the whole thing and just do a 3 channel amp and power the front door speakers and sub and then just leave the headunit to power the rears and tweeters

 

You are right, I figured I post in here since we both had similar questions and could both find answers versus creating another thread.

In order to keep your stock wiring you will have to buy 2 Speedwires as mentioned previously. The first speedwire will go from head unit to speaker input in amp or LOC. The second speed wire will go from amp output back to Head unit.

I would do a 5 channel amp to power 4 door speakers and subs. Will keep everything simple and you will know door speakers and subs are being powered.

Do not go above 75 watts RMS at 4ohms for each speaker. Anything above 75 watts RMS will require running designated speaker wires according to Crutchfield and other articles I researched.

Here is a pic I found of someone that used 2 speedwires.

 

I purchased this Metra harness versus the Stinger Speedwire because it was on Amazon with Prime.

Metra MC918-20 20-Feet Nine-Conductor 18 AWG Twisted Multi-Use Cable

$26 Metra MC918-20 20-Feet Nine-Conductor 18 AWG Twisted Multi-Use

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004H1KAMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ux2vAbV51Q8TB

You’ll need these connectors

Stereo Wire Harness Toyota Tacoma 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 (car radio wiring installation parts)

Stereo Wire Harness Toyota Tacoma 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 (car radio wiring installation parts)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00683W092/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iJ2vAbQVGH78J


Metra 71-1761 87 - 94 Toyota Vehicle Harness

$11 Metra 71-1761 87 - 94 Toyota Vehicle Harness

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029X1KA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

 

You will also need something like this to connect Speedwire to Amp output.

 

Page 1 and Page 7 of this thread will help both of you out a lot:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2016-bbp-audio-build.430252/

 

Yeah it has definitely helped me out. Your pictures were very helpful.

Just finished my install today. Will post more pictures to help OP and anyone else who is watching. OP you will build your harness with 2 speedwires since you plan to keep factory speaker wiring.

This is what it should look like in the back of the head unit. I used zip ties vs electrical tape since electrical tape gets sticky and loses its adhesive properties over time.

 

Forgot to upload an image. This is the end of the speedwire that I soldered to the speaker input connector that came with the amplifier. The blue wire from the speedwire is the remote turn on I soldered it to a red wire because I didnt want to run to the store just for blue wire when I had red/black laying around.

 

OP have you decided what route to take? I will say running new speaker wires from speakers to doors is time consuming but it is not difficult by any means.

What I ended up doing is connecting the Speedwire with the connectors I linked previously from Amazon to the factory HU. I then ran the speedwire down the driver side door sill and under the carpet to the amplifier. I didn’t need an LOC as the amplifier I selected has Speaker Inputs.

As Friedtacolover mentioned, the wiring from the tweeters from a component speaker system will drop straight down. You might have to peek up under dash just to pull them through. Was happy how easy this was. If you go this route you will need a universal back strap to mount the tweeters to factory location or get a bracket from Mr. Marv. I went the universal backstrap method and cut the ends with a tin snip.

The front and rear door speakers will have to be routed through a rubber grommet/conduit that feeds all the wires from the door controls. My recommendation here is to disconnect all connectors and remove grommet from both ends. This will allow you to straighten out the conduit and run the wires through. I taped a zip tie at the end of the speaker wires and fed them through after applying a little bit of hand soap to allow them to glide through. The rear doors have only one connecter to remove and you will be able to disconnect the grommets/conduit to straighten it out. The passenger front door has 2 connectors to remove and the driver door has 8 connectors. All connectors are different shapes/sizes so it will be impossible to put one back in the wrong place.

All speaker wires were routed back to the amplifier under the driver seat. I ran a 10” Kicker CompC subwoofer with a vented box. Got it from Amazon for $69 shipped as it was refurbished. I thought it would fit behind rear seats but it is too bulky up top to allow seats to latch. This is with the plastic storage behind seats removed. I have it set on the floor behind the driver seat for now. I have never had anyone sit in the rear before so if that time comes, I can disconnect subwoofer and throw it in back of truck. Will decide what to do at a later time. Probably go with the TT Single sub box as originally planned.

The speaker wires are 16g and the subwoofer wire are 12g.

The amp ground wire I ran under driver seat. You will see a ground already there. I sanded that spot to metal and connected the amp ground and the seat ground wire back. Original bolt worked as it is long enough.

The amp power wire was ran through the grommet on the driver side. Make a hole in the grommet from the engine bay and feed the power cable from the inside. I used the Crutchfield 4G Amp wiring kit.

If you decide not to run new speaker wires, purchase another Speedwire and run the Speedwire back to the HU.

 

Hey, I appreciate all of the work you've put into these explanations for this thread. I do have one question though that I hope you can help me with. I have the correct supplies and I'd like to run the Speedwire from the head unit to the amp. I can do that no problem. I understand the harnesses and the wiring. My problem that once I have run the second Speedwire BACK to the head unit, how am I supposed to connect that back to the factory wiring? Do one of your pictures explain this connection? Will I just have to splice in the individual wires from the Speedwire into their factory wires? Seems like that would defeat the purpose of keeping the factory wiring uncut.

 

You need a male harness to go from the head unit to the amp to connect to the speedwire. For going back to the speakers, you need a female harness to connect to the speaker wire harness you unplugged from the head unit for the speedwire coming back from the amp to the existing speakers. Make sense?

 

Ok yes that makes a lot of sense. Do you know if these female harnesses are readily available to purchase?

EDIT: In fact, maybe I should just run the Speedwire back and splice it in without caring about messing up the factory wiring. It's just wires and I can connect it back without the splice if needed. That might be a simpler route. I want to use the Speedwire from the head unit to amp and back so it is clean, but maybe I shouldn't really care if the factory wiring is cut.