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Aux daytime running lights/switchback lights

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by logcabinwc, Jan 13, 2015.

  1. Jan 13, 2015 at 10:56 PM
    #1
    logcabinwc

    logcabinwc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So I'm considering having a little fun and wiring up some auxiliary daytime running LEDs that also are the switchback and preform turn signal duties. I want to make sure I conceptually understand what I might be diving into before attempting however because I would hate to waste my time and money on getting everything together just to find I cannot pull it off. So let me run through what I am thinking and if you see anything wrong or that I might be missing, speak up!

    Goal:
    1) "Daytime running lights" that are NOT the factory headlights-- that come on automatically when the truck is turned on.
    2) I would like them to be wired so that I can turn them off from the cab if I needed to.
    3) Have these LEDs wired as switchback, so that they double as turn signals as well, meaning that when I flip on a turn signal, the white LED turns off and allows amber LEDs to flash.

    LED switchbacks I am considering:

    These or these

    Process I was thinking:
    1)I'll need to tap into a fuse that is on only when the truck is on, somewhere in the fuse panel (any suggestion on which one?).
    2) Run that tap to a switch in the cab, and then back across the firewall to a relay with power coming from my auxiliary fuse block (I have installed a twelve fuse marine block in already). Wiring the relay shouldn't be a problem, done it before.
    3) Then I need to tap a wire for each turn signal (I hope I am right in assuming an inline tap will be sufficient, or should a run more relays?).
    4) Make sure my soldering, grounding, and overall job is neat, clean up the wires, and enjoy.

    Products needed:
    1) Lots o' wire
    2) Relay
    3) Fuse tap for in the factor fuse block
    4) Two wire taps (one for each turn signal)
    5) Switch for in the cab
    6) General soldering and wire splicing stuff (got it already)
    7) And obviously the switchbacks

    So am I missing anything? or does anyone recommend a better switchback LED product?

    I'm not to sure where I want to place these yet. I have satoshi'd my grill, but I like the look of outlining the headlights with the flex LEDs. In the end it has to look clean though, I don't want a half ass looking thing.

    Help is appreciated, stupid comments aren't.

    Edit:
    See if this makes sense
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2015
  2. Jan 13, 2015 at 11:16 PM
    #2
    fergyz

    fergyz Mmmm...Tacos

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    what you are asking is doable... my first queston is:

    do you have the factory DTRLs as of right now? this will dictate how the aux ones are wired.
     
  3. Jan 13, 2015 at 11:17 PM
    #3
    logcabinwc

    logcabinwc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Old Man Emu 885s with Nitrocharged 90000, Bilstein 5100 in the back with AllPro 3 spring progressive AAL, 16 inch Baja Black 6-spoke alloy wheels, Flow Master exhaust, bed lights, Pioneer HD radio, Uniden CB Radio, K&N Air filter, BAMF Sliders w/kickout, Relentless Aluminum IFS Skid, 24 LED light bar, custom/homebuilt expedition style bed rack and basket combo, and Body Armor rear plate bumper.
    Nope I do not.

    If I did I would assume I could just tape in (with a relay) to those and skip the whole in-cab switch stuff right? Not that it matters because I don't have DTRLs...
     
  4. Jan 14, 2015 at 9:02 AM
    #4
    fergyz

    fergyz Mmmm...Tacos

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    Your diagram is on the money for how you should wire it.

    If you did have the stock DTRL's, it would actually require additional wiring to be done. got to remember, toyota is using the turn signals as DTRL's so your wiring diagram would not work as you wanted it to. the ambers would be on majority of the time instead of the white LEDs.
     
  5. Jan 14, 2015 at 9:11 AM
    #5
    logcabinwc

    logcabinwc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Old Man Emu 885s with Nitrocharged 90000, Bilstein 5100 in the back with AllPro 3 spring progressive AAL, 16 inch Baja Black 6-spoke alloy wheels, Flow Master exhaust, bed lights, Pioneer HD radio, Uniden CB Radio, K&N Air filter, BAMF Sliders w/kickout, Relentless Aluminum IFS Skid, 24 LED light bar, custom/homebuilt expedition style bed rack and basket combo, and Body Armor rear plate bumper.
    Ahhh gotcha. Awesome, I will proceed in the next few weeks then. Thanks for your help, much appreciated.

    I'll try to do a write-up, maybe it will help someone else.
     
  6. Jan 14, 2015 at 12:58 PM
    #6
    fergyz

    fergyz Mmmm...Tacos

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    i know your diagram doesn't state which pins on the relay are going where... I can take an educated guess but for clarification purpose:

    IMO
    I would run:
    the switch to pin 86
    ground wire to pin 85
    Aux fuse box wire to pin 87
    White DTRL LED wire to pin 30

    on a side note, i would pick a fuse/circuit the is only hot in the run position for either pin 87 or 86. This would shut off those leds when the vehicle is not running.
     
  7. Jan 14, 2015 at 2:04 PM
    #7
    logcabinwc

    logcabinwc [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Old Man Emu 885s with Nitrocharged 90000, Bilstein 5100 in the back with AllPro 3 spring progressive AAL, 16 inch Baja Black 6-spoke alloy wheels, Flow Master exhaust, bed lights, Pioneer HD radio, Uniden CB Radio, K&N Air filter, BAMF Sliders w/kickout, Relentless Aluminum IFS Skid, 24 LED light bar, custom/homebuilt expedition style bed rack and basket combo, and Body Armor rear plate bumper.
    Awesome. And yes, I want to run 86 to a fuse only on when the truck is on. Not sure which one yet (and if you know a good one let me know!). Was going to use my multimeter to try and find one.
     
  8. Jan 14, 2015 at 3:22 PM
    #8
    fergyz

    fergyz Mmmm...Tacos

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    best bet is to grab a factory diagram from a FSM or haynes/chilton. Look at them and see which circuits are hot in the "run position" or "ignition 1"(IG1) circuit.

    the air condition circuit is one. you can use a "tap-a-fuse" to provide power to pin 86 via the switch. very little amps is required to trigger the relay so it won't pull hardly any thing from that circuit. probably use a 5 amp fuse for the wire to the switch.
     

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