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axle removal help

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by das56170, Mar 28, 2011.

  1. Mar 28, 2011 at 5:46 PM
    #1
    das56170

    das56170 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm replacing my driver side front axle. I'm having a hard time getting the inner CV disconnected from the differential. I've read other posts that say to use a pry bar to pop it out, and the guy at the auto parts store said the same thing. I've been trying with a 12" pry bar with no luck. Am I doing something wrong, or should I just go out and get a bigger pry bar?

    Thanks.
     
  2. Mar 28, 2011 at 5:47 PM
    #2
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is gooder 'en chicken Moderator

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    Bigger pry bar
    1 foot is not a lot of leverage
     
  3. Mar 28, 2011 at 5:54 PM
    #3
    das56170

    das56170 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, I'm gonna go buy one tonight. You think 2' should do the job? I don't want to get one too big, and then not have enough room to maneuver it around.
     
  4. Mar 28, 2011 at 5:55 PM
    #4
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is gooder 'en chicken Moderator

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    Yes, that should do it
     
  5. Mar 29, 2011 at 7:04 PM
    #5
    das56170

    das56170 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Finally got the axle out of the front diff. Now I'm having a lot of trouble getting the new axle into the diff. It goes in and stops about an inch away from being fully seated. I've been wrestling with it for a couple of hours.

    Anyone have any tricks or advice to seat the axle in the front diff
     
  6. Mar 29, 2011 at 7:16 PM
    #6
    Texoma

    Texoma Well-Known Member

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    First off ya shouldn't have used a pry bar to get it out, you coulda damaged something like the diff oil seal. You should have a little C ring on the portion of the axle that you are trying to insert in the diff. Make sure that it is in the downward pointing position to get it past the locking point. Just push with some force and it'll pop in.
     
  7. Mar 29, 2011 at 9:41 PM
    #7
    das56170

    das56170 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I must be doing something wrong then. I've been trying for a while and it's not cooperating. I'll give it another try tomorrow.
     
  8. Mar 29, 2011 at 9:45 PM
    #8
    ktmrider

    ktmrider Senior Member

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    Junk
    stick the nut on the end of the shaft and give it some taps with a hammer.
     
  9. Mar 29, 2011 at 10:09 PM
    #9
    n0rth

    n0rth Well-Known Member

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    X2, I use this method with a tall wood block (2ft long 4x4) and a strap or belt to support the middle section of the CV off of the upper control arm. Set the block standing upright so you don't have to hold it one hand to swing the hammer the other to steady the CV and the strap to support the weight. Should go right in when the c-clips are new they can be a pain and figured this out while doing one by myself most of the time they go right in without a whole lot work but every once in a while you will get one that is a PIA.
     
  10. Mar 29, 2011 at 10:21 PM
    #10
    Disorderly

    Disorderly Well-Known Member

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    Couldn't hurt to add some dif lube to the c-clip.
     
  11. Mar 30, 2011 at 9:54 AM
    #11
    Texoma

    Texoma Well-Known Member

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    Don't hit the shaft with a hammer. This is bad advice. Hammers are hardened steel and those shafts are softer. If you hit it with a hammer it will turn the round shaft into an oval. Wood block and a hammer, good. Lubing clip, good. My advice. Take a look at the clip. All that pushing and hammering may have expanded it somewhat, so you can see if you can give it a lil squeeze with a pair of needle noze's, just be extremely careful not to damage the splines on the shaft. Next put some of the diff fluid you're gonna use on the clip and the splines as stated above. Then when inserting make sure that the C clip is facing down. That means the ends are down or the open part to clear any confusion. Try just pushing it in, I've never had trouble like this but it is possible. If pushing it in to the stop point and then giving it a thrust doesn't get it to go then the hammer and wood block is a good idea. Get the axle as strait as possible. It is easier to have a second person holing the shaft strait than using anything to prop it. Put the wood block on the threaded end of the axle and hit the wood with a hammer. That should do the trick. For future reference when removing these shafts, do not use a pry bar. Instead you need a brass drift, which is like a chisel or punch made of brass so that it won't hurt any other metals. Use the brass drift with a hammer to tap the axle out. If you have any other probs let me know.
     
  12. Mar 30, 2011 at 8:27 PM
    #12
    das56170

    das56170 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well, that was a bitch. Finally got it done. Thanks for all the advice guys. Much appreciated.
     
  13. Mar 31, 2011 at 10:48 PM
    #13
    blackbox

    blackbox Well-Known Member

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    I changed a drive axle on a Honda Accord one time, driver side had a fixed shaft coming from the differential, and the drive axle was fastened as usual into the shaft. I could not get the axle out of the shaft, no prying, no hammering, no beating would get it out. Finally I just took the shaft off, had to spend an extra $200 to replace it, put it in a vise and whaled the hell out of it until it finally came apart. Tore the shaft up good, c-clip on the axle was all mangled. Sometimes these things just will not come apart, or go together, I guess. I had mini-nightmares for awhile about what I would have done if the axle had been stuck in the differential that way. Anyone ever had that problem?
     
  14. Mar 31, 2011 at 10:53 PM
    #14
    blackbox

    blackbox Well-Known Member

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    I mean, the OP had that problem, I'm talking about the axle will not come out no matter what, pry bar, using a chisel as a wedge, hammering on anything on the axle that you can get a hammer on, etc., it is stuck basically permanently, that is the problem I am asking if anyone has encountered.
     
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